Retorquing wheels

[SPYDERLK]

I use an anti-seize compound on my wheel bolts as I want to be able to get them off if necessary. Then, I torque to factory specs...and torque stripe the bolt heads.
As you may recall, your tractor manual does call out to check the tightness of many fasterners (including wheel bolts or nuts) periodically. You shouldn't just torque 'em and forget 'em.

You would be better off using a medium grade Loctite. With anti seize you are significantly overtorquing your bolts.
larry

 

[RoyJackson]

You would be better off using a medium grade Loctite. With anti seize you are significantly overtorquing your bolts.
larry

Been doing this for a lot of years, Larry...never busted a bolt or stud, or overtorqued one yet (I progressively torque, BTW).
Thanks for suggestion...but I'll stick with my method.

 

[43WLC]

Why do you use Loctite please Larry?

Thanks for reminding me that the manuals say to re-torque periodically Roy.
Do any of them suggest periodically changing the parts you tighten please?
I've never seen such a recommendation for tractors.

Cheers, Mike

 

[oldballs]

Adding to the many years of experience equation, I hate anti-seize on something that is removed periodically like wheel rotation on vehicles, or even on my trailer that requires ocassional wheel removal for various reasons. That stuff is hard to get off of anything, it gums up the threads and I feel sure that it has added an over-torque to the stud on wheels. So I just go dry now. BTW, at 79 yrs old and 145 lbs, I can hardly get a long handled torque wrench up to 125 lbs.:laughing::laughing: Thus, on the road I carry a really long handled wrench and socket for the car/truck, in case of flats. I don't think these issues apply so much to slow moving small tractors however. As Roy says, to each his own.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Why do you use Loctite please Larry?

Thanks for reminding me that the manuals say to re-torque periodically Roy.
Do any of them suggest periodically changing the parts you tighten please?
I've never seen such a recommendation for tractors.

Cheers, Mike

Good question. ... I dont on lugs or most other things. I assemble mine dry, or at most with alittle Kroil on the threads if theres any rust. The reason I suggested locktite in Roys case was to seal the threads to prevent rusting and "seize", without use of a paste lubricant. [His use of std generic T spec on anti seized bolts ensures an overtensioned condition and may damage fasteners.] Lubricants require use of lower torque specs to ensure the desired fastener tension is not exceeded ... and also can allow a fastener to back off under load cycling cuz it turns so smooth and easy.

When I do use Loctite it is usually the green stuf. #638 is about the strongest made, but weakens significantly by 300F. Use only on hi grade fasteners ... or heat to remove.
larry

 

[RoyJackson]

... and also can allow a fastener to back off under load cycling cuz it turns so smooth and easy.
larry

I've never had one back off (yet). However, the torque striping will indicate if a fasterner is loosening and all it takes is a fairly quick visual inspection.

However, I have had fasteners rusted on enough it took a fire wrench to break it loose...or more drastic action.

 

[43WLC]

Thanks Larry.

Have you considered applying say grease
after you torqued up dry Roy?

Have you seen these Oldballs?
NEW Torque Multiplier / Lugnut Remover w/ Carrying Bag | eBay
through to these
NEW WILLIAMS TOOLS 8000 FT.LB OUTPUT TORQUE MULTIPLIER | eBay

Cheers, Mike

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks Larry.

Have you considered applying say grease
after you torqued up dry Roy?

Cheers, Mike

I'm not sure how greasing after torquing would help.

Obviously, anti-seize puts a barrier between the male and female threads, thus preventing rust welding of the mating parts.
One thing I used to do was use way too much anti-seize. All you need is a thin stripe up the threads and as you turn the bolt (or nut), it spreads the anti-seize.
It's possible (I don't know, so this is supposition on my part) that too much anti-seize could result in the fastener loosening (as Larry wrote).

 

[oldballs]

Yeah, 43WLC, I've seen the torque multiplier. Thanks, but I'm all set now. That 8000 ft pounder for $6000 would brake me or toss me over the cab.

 

[43WLC]

I've got a 5 to 1 multiplier off Ebay for less than 80$ Oldballs.
Saves struggling with a 4ft cheater bar to get them off.
20lb pull on my 18" torque wrench gives 150 at the nut.

Cheers, Mike