Retorquing wheels

[oldballs]

:thumbsup:That's it, Roy! Often I over-do things. That "thin stripe" would be the answer. I put way too much on the last time I used anti-seize. Thanks.

 

[43WLC]

I'm not sure how greasing after torquing would help.

Two points Roy.

Grease will keep water/rust out.

I actually wrote 'say grease', there are many substances you might prefer to use keep the water out.

As I see it: -

Your thread sealer will lubricate the threads putting you in the same position you would be if you had used a regular lubricant.
When you come to retorque some time later. the thread sealer you used before, how well you cleaned the thread sealer off, and which sealer you use the next time will add a lot of variables.

If you torque dry, assuming your manual says to torque dry, you know you are as close to the correct tension in your bolts as you are likely to get.
If you now 'say grease' the fixing, that 'say grease' will give you most of the rust protection you seek, but won't upset your torque setting.

If you used an oil based water repellant, when you come to retorque, you can easily remove oil based water repellant with brake cleaner so that you can retorque dry.

Kind Regards, Mike

 

[Mace Canute]

Here's a good site that answers questions you never knew you had!

Bolt Science Web Site

I have been using a product called Rust Check on all my wheel studs for years now. It eliminates any galling of the threads and also eliminates any corrosion issues. It's an oil based product and many Canadians and northern Americans will probably recognize the name. A mechanic friend has used this in his garage for a couple of decades or more and has never once had any issue with over torqued studs or loose wheel nuts or problems with galled threads.

I was present one day when he was trying to remove a new customers wheel and was almost unable to get it off due to the DRY threads galling. Fortunately he was able to squirt Rust Check onto the stud and get it to work into the threads and he finally got the nut off. I can just imagine the owner having a flat and trying to change that tire...

 

[43WLC]

I have been using a product called Rust Check on all my wheel studs for years now. It eliminates any galling of the threads and also eliminates any corrosion issues. It's an oil based product and many Canadians and northern Americans will probably recognize the name. A mechanic friend has used this in his garage for a couple of decades or more and has never once had any issue with over torqued studs or loose wheel nuts or problems with galled threads.

I'm with you all the way on that one Mace, the old ways are the best. Why oh why can't kids today play by our rules? Sometimes I think they are just like dogs marking their spot on every post round the paddock just to say they been there. Instead, I suspect they sit at those new-fangled 'join the dot' drafting boards thinking up new ways they can wrong foot us.

Regards, Mike

 

[43WLC]

Just been chewing the fat around this subject with a very helpful application engineer who works for a big company making thread sealers and lockers.

I understood that as I致e only got dry torque setting for my wheel (lug) nuts my answer is to: -
1) Clean and dry my male and female threads.
2) Torque my dry wheel nuts to 5nm.
3) Note the position of my torque wrench.
4) Tighten to the recommended torque value.
5) Note the position of my torque wrench.
. . . . Now I know you know what angle to turn the bolt to give it the right tension.
6) Apply some say copper grease.
7) Tighten to 5nm, see note below.
8) Note the position of the wrench
9) Tighten the nut the same angular amount
10) Note the torque applied to the nut at the end.

Repeat for my other wheel nuts.

If I work out the average the readings for all my wheel nuts, the average reading will be the torque I値l use in future.

Apparently lubricated torqueings give more consistent results than dry ones.
Which leads me to believe that manufacturers supply dry torques to keep tills ringing.

Note
5nm is 44-1/4lbs pull at 1?
If I pull 4-1/2lb using a spring balance 10 up my ratchet, knuckle bar, or whatever I値l get 5nm at the nut.

Kind Regards, Mike

 

[Scotty370]

I've been using Roy's method for years with no ill affects. Index finger dab of 'Never Seize' (sp?) applied to about 1/4 of the circumference of the stud, and let the nut spread it out as turned on......~Scotty

 

[Johnp33]

Personally I use never-size, mixed with ATF and synthetic gear oil, mixed to a thin paist. I paint about 1/3 of the stud, I put some of the same mixture between the hub and the rim, also the brake and the hub be it disc or drum.
I have never had one come loose, when I remove the nuts the rim comes off no corrosion the drum comes off. That way I can check the slave cylinders, and clean the dust from the brakes.
I torque to full value, I assemble by hand with a small ratchet if the nuts are a cone, to center the rim. I re-torque after about a week, especially if you are going from a steel wheel to aluminum.
Just a thought!

 

[43WLC]

Personally I use never-size, mixed with ATF and synthetic gear oil, mixed to a thin paist. I paint about 1/3 of the stud,

Well, that a witch's brew John, how did you come to invent that out?

I know you wrote you put it on the 1st 1/3 of the stud.
Do you put any on the shoulders of the nut please?

Kind Regards, Mike

 

[43WLC]

Index finger dab of 'Never Seize' (sp?) applied to about 1/4 of the circumference of the stud~Scotty

You don't put any on the shoulders of the nut then Scotty?

Kind Regards, Mike

 

[Johnp33]

Well, that a witch's brew John, how did you come to invent that out?

I know you wrote you put it on the 1st 1/3 of the stud.
Do you put any on the shoulders of the nut please?

Kind Regards, Mike

I figured out that mixture after years of experimentation, If you work in a shop there would be cans of never size on benches that the mixture was hardened, and the brush would not get I cut the can or plastic open and scoop it out, I use to use just ATF but after some testing, on advise from anouther Mechanic on using synthetic gear lube on the Big "O" rings on Cats I started adding that also. I mix it with a bent welding rod in my air drill.
I used it on most everything in an engine. People use to call it my special sauce. I have a plastic quart container with a 2 inch brush and a small 3/8 wide brush. One other container had Cat bolt lube also cut but thicker.
I do not use it on the taper of wheel nuts.
The old mustard containers that had the nozzle you twisted to shut off, I have a bunch of them in my side cabinets 2 for solvent, 1 for ATF Dex 3, 1 for synthetic ATF, 1 for Synthetic gear lube 50 w. 1 for ester AC oil. 1 quart container with my special sauce and anouther it has a DCA2 container, with Synthetic ATF, that I stand my air ratchet in after I fill the inside with ATF, it cleans the air ratchet, so they last for years and I used the ratchet all day, and left it soak all night.