Tiller Reverse Rotation Tillers

[ncengr]

From my reading on use of walk behind tillers, the only advantage typically stated for CRT (counter rotation tillers) was faster initial tilling of sod or other vegetation. After the initial passes the advantage goes away. Granted I've never used a CRT - I have a Troybilt Horse with regular rotating tines that I've used for almost 20 years and just recently bought a KK tiller (also normal rotation) to use with my B2710. It has done a great job so far but I have only used it on ground that has been in cultivation for my vegetable garden over the years. It really fluffs up the soil.

 

[StanInCalif]

Good post, Steve- theoretically. a reverse tine is better, but often theory goes to $#IT when dealing with such obstacles as rocks, roots, and solidified clay soil. I, too, have a vintage (1972) Horse model that I completely rebuilt and repowered with a Kohler M8. It now does the finish work in the garden.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

RaT:

I too am looking for a tiller and considering the reverse tine option (sorry, counter rotating). Can't say for certain whether its worth the extra money ($700-$900 more). But I can say from experience when the tines run opposite to the wheel direction, the action is noticably better. Example, a couple weeks ago was preparing a small strip (6'x100') of hard, dry clay for grass with a Gravely two wheel (actually 4 wheel-it has duals) garden tractor, in forward the tiller would do very little beyond scraping. In reverse (the tractor backing up-PTO sticks out the front so tiller is in front) the tiller would at least "chip" the clay and break it up nicely. Was adding in lots of peat moss, manure, lime, gypsum, etc. Did all right, the grass is up a couple inches now. I suspect, based on my experience, that for building soil, deep fine tilling in the least time the reverse tine tiller is better. Once the soil is loose I suspect the forward turning tiller would work fine.

Frankly, I am leaning to the regular tiller as you could "back into" whatever you are tilling and would, in effect, have the action of reverse rotating tines to do the initial tilling on hardpan (although you would leave tracks-but once broken up, a quick forward pass would take care of that). Of course, if you're doing acres and acres that would be a pain.

Regarding your pricing info, the Landpride model (72" M/L) reverse tine goes for $2440 here (east central MO) and an equivalent Bush Hog for $2465 (these are actual quotes 6-10-03). In forward turning tillers (same 72") price is $1700-$1750. King Kutter makes a 72" geared, forward turning tiller that looks really solid-though I don't know about the long term quality of the materials-for $1200-$1300 (they had one on sale a few weeks ago for $1199).

Anyone:

Does anyone have any thoughts on chain drive vs. geared drive on tillers. It would seems the geared would be much more durable since the chains would certainly wear faster. The dealer says chains are just as good but that doesn't seem logical. I note the heavier models (such as the heavy Bush Hog) use gearing. But I can't say for certain. Anyone have any thoughts on this issue, chain drive vs. gear drive????

JEH

 

[JATO_RaT]

If you search through some of the attachments posts, you will find lots about gears vs chains on tillers. It was back around december or so as I recall. To sum it up, it sounded as though gears are more durable but a good tiller with chain can hold up a long time particularly those who don't use it routinely like in commercial landscaping. The geared tillers are more common in the larger tillers.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

RaT:

Thanks. Sometimes forget (old age and appoaching senility and all) to do a search before posting. That's how I found this thread on reverse tine tillers, oops, counter rotating tillers. Did you get a tiller yet?

JEH

 

[SGBotsford]

One use for counter rotating tillers is for hole filling/leveling. Set it to just barely make a cut. It keeps sweeping the lumps ahead of it until it finds a hole. This is the only way I've found to deal with a combination of ruts and grass short of ploughing and reseeding.

If you want to try it, set up a regular tiller and back into your work. This is hard on the neck for more than a few hundred feet.