Ridged Insulation under a steel roof?

[Industrial Toys]

Contractor shows up in a 21 Denali (sp?) Duramax. My first question. Am I gonna have to pay for that? lol

Anyway, decided there have to be better interior insulating methods, despite the obstacles. Far easier to heat the space with an eight foot enclosed ceiling.

Gave him the job, I am going to strip the roof. Getting the job done soon and knowing the standard to which he works, made the choice fairly easy.

As for my little shack by our pond that needs a new roof. That was going to be half as much as he garage! AMAZING, how much little jobs cost! Kind of was hoping it could just be added to the main job, cheap, but it dosn't work that way. My buddy and I have a lot of experience doing his large complicated roof this last summer, so this should be easy!


Side note: That truck has options I never heard of. Work lights in the mirrors, 360 degree cameras. Why they don't record is beyond me though! That folding multi step bumper is really cool although he thinks they will destroy it.

 

[Macinnis]

Take a look at drip stop. Itç—´ a thin material glued onto the underside of the metal...i have it on my Morton building. Itç—´ supposed to hold any moisture that accumulates on the metal and allows it to self dry out as the temperature changes (supposed to not drip).

 

[Industrial Toys]

I made some phone calls for the sheeting prices and came to the conclusion that he wants more than I am willing to pay for an easy days labor. We had a very open frank discussion. He asked what it would take and I said tha I was willing to to pay same cost as material in labor. He couldn't do that. With several crews, trucks and doing good quality work, he has just gotten out of my league I guess.

Helping a friend do his steel roof once, and he claimed to know what he was doing, the steel started to skew. Any tips on preventing that if I end up doing it myself?

 

[user.69169]

Beyond me why everybody wid a tin roof refuses to understand dey built de problem when dey ignored de floor where most humidity dat condenses on roof comes from. Sorta like building half a crawl space & wonderin why floor above rots away.

I guess solvin de problem isn't done any more when a contractor can be called in. He got truck payments fer you to make.
Funny thing, layer of 6 mil poly on de living space side of tin roof will keep humidity came up from de floor from reachin de tin.

Whole industry around here based on saving insulation when roof gets replaced on government buildings, USED FOAM BOARDS. Work dang good too, and half de price. Don't need no fancy edges either if you use dat pile of old coathangers fer spikes along de edge.

Building wid animals in it gonna have lot more humidity from dem animals breathing. Probably gonna have a base PH to it too. Real good for everythin inside de containment.

Insulation ain't fer moisture containment, membranes are.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Building was built in 67. Floating slab. Even if it was insulated today, it's till tough since most of the time the building isn't heated. I'm master of my house/property and live alone. I don't need to hide in my shop, or take my shoes off coming into the house. lol

I was thinking about the cost. I really want a polycarbonate door. Not sure I feel rich enough for that, but, for the money he want's to charge me, I could do it myself (with help) and afford the new door too.

 

[Oldpath05]

Well what was the cost for what size roof and for what exactly was the contractor going to do? Are you still doing metal roof or asphalt?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Helping a friend do his steel roof once, and he claimed to know what he was doing, the steel started to skew. Any tips on preventing that if I end up doing it myself?

The trick is to start the first sheet as straight as you can. Measure several times. If it starts to skew there are several tricks. If you don't mind the difference in length you can lower or raise each sheet a quarter of an inch to make up for the skewing. Most people will never notice that you've done that. Another trick is to install a screw at one end and then physically move the other end of the sheet on the overlap to move the sheet a little wider than what it should be. What I like to do is screw down the rib that overlaps the previous rib first. Then depending on which way I want to move the top or bottom of the metal sheet determines which strapping the sheets get screwed onto next. If you start by the first row of screws and step on each rib as you install a screw you can make that end of the sheet slightly wider and sheet by sheet control the skewing. Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.

 

[Peter 315]

Take a look at drip stop. It痴 a thin material glued onto the underside of the metal...i have it on my Morton building. It痴 supposed to hold any moisture that accumulates on the metal and allows it to self dry out as the temperature changes (supposed to not drip).

View attachment 677173

I have that in my Morton barn and they also put 2 new roofs on my other barns no more dripping...................Its called DRY-PANEL....

 

[s219]

The trick is to start the first sheet as straight as you can. Measure several times. If it starts to skew there are several tricks. If you don't mind the difference in length you can lower or raise each sheet a quarter of an inch to make up for the skewing. Most people will never notice that you've done that. Another trick is to install a screw at one end and then physically move the other end of the sheet on the overlap to move the sheet a little wider than what it should be. What I like to do is screw down the rib that overlaps the previous rib first. Then depending on which way I want to move the top or bottom of the metal sheet determines which strapping the sheets get screwed onto next. If you start by the first row of screws and step on each rib as you install a screw you can make that end of the sheet slightly wider and sheet by sheet control the skewing. Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.

What I was taught is to run a tight string along the eave line from gable to gable. Space it out from the intended edge by 1/2" or so, or some convenient distance you can accurately eyeball. The string will be a reference for the bottom edge of the sheets. If you place all sheets so that the bottom of the sheet is parallel to the string, the sheets cannot wander (or if they were to wander it would be quickly corrected sheet to sheet). Wandering happens when little errors stack up as you line up each new sheet with the previous one. So instead of doing that, line up each new sheet with a universal absolute reference.

I have done quite a few roofs with this method and it has always worked like a charm. It's also real good fir dealing with roof framing that isn't 100% square from one gable to another, or framing with an eave line that isn't straight. With the string method, you establish a nice straight reference independent of other possible errors.

 

[pmsmechanic]

^^^^

I like your idea of a string. I can see that working well.