I’m late to the party! Glad to see the pics too, and the explanations…helps me understand a little more about mine.
2001 PT425 Kohler CH25 Oil Leak - Pull The Engine
- Thread starter MossRoad
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I’ve been going through that stuff by the gallons lately…I’ve found it best so far. And a new HF ultrasonic cleaner helps too.
OP
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- Aug 31, 2001
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- 66,099
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
2nd set of caps and plugs arrived yesterday. The plastic box wasn't even cracked!Welp, it showed up inside of a corrugated cardboard box in a waterproof bag. The plastic box has a cracked hinge. Oh well. Doesn't bother me. All of the fittings are there. Will get on it again as time permits. Spent the weekend working on canna lilies, flower pots, greenhouse, etc. winterizing. Spent Sunday with my wife and some of her family.
View attachment 833081 View attachment 833082 View attachment 833083
Would have been handy to have the PT425 to dig out the lilies in 5 minutes VS 2 hours with the shovel.
Back to work on it over the weekend. I hope... since our kids moved back to Indiana and are now within 2 hours VS 6 and 12hrs respectively, they sure do show up a lot more!
We love it!
OP
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Finally had the ability to start putting the engine back in after replacing the cracked oil cooler gasket.
I decided to split the plastic fan shroud vertically so that if I have to get to the lovejoy on that side of the engine again. I fabricated a tab in the bottom halves of the shell to keep them aligned, put the bolts back in up the sides, and pop riveted a strap across the top of the split to keep it from vibrating.
Installed various other shielding and such.
Installed the shroud, the variable volume pump on the front, and the two PTO pumps on the rear, removed the muffler and I was good to start.
Got it aligned and started lowering. Stopped about 6" from the bottom and started hooking up hoses. That appeared to be easier than trying to do that if the engine was all the way in. Got them all hooked up and set the engine down. Had to pull the right rear tire to reconnect the one hose I had to pull from that wheel motor. It helped that I put color coded zip ties on the hoses and took a lot of pictures before disassembly
The cheap harbor freight service wrenches sure made things a lot easier.
Next chance I get, I'll reinstall the 4 engine plate mounting bolts, reinstall the right rear tire and start hooking up electronics and the hydro back device. Choke and throttle linkage. Then I have add a new battery, reinstall the muffler, bleed everything, put the spark plugs back in, block it up off the ground and give it a test.
(click pictures to enlarge)
I decided to split the plastic fan shroud vertically so that if I have to get to the lovejoy on that side of the engine again. I fabricated a tab in the bottom halves of the shell to keep them aligned, put the bolts back in up the sides, and pop riveted a strap across the top of the split to keep it from vibrating.
Installed various other shielding and such.
Installed the shroud, the variable volume pump on the front, and the two PTO pumps on the rear, removed the muffler and I was good to start.
Got it aligned and started lowering. Stopped about 6" from the bottom and started hooking up hoses. That appeared to be easier than trying to do that if the engine was all the way in. Got them all hooked up and set the engine down. Had to pull the right rear tire to reconnect the one hose I had to pull from that wheel motor. It helped that I put color coded zip ties on the hoses and took a lot of pictures before disassembly
The cheap harbor freight service wrenches sure made things a lot easier.
Next chance I get, I'll reinstall the 4 engine plate mounting bolts, reinstall the right rear tire and start hooking up electronics and the hydro back device. Choke and throttle linkage. Then I have add a new battery, reinstall the muffler, bleed everything, put the spark plugs back in, block it up off the ground and give it a test.
(click pictures to enlarge)
m5040
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The excitement is starting to build...
OP
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- Aug 31, 2001
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I bought two axle straps from Harbor Freight.
2 D ring shackles
And used some existing chains, hooks, etc. that I had laying around.
I slipped the axle straps through the engine mounting plate. It's two plates. The bottom plate bolts to the engine tub base, there are about 2" risers around the edges, inset a bit, then the top plate. The engine bolts to the top plate. So I slipped them between the plates. Worked fine. The only thing that passes through those plates are one hose for the right/rear wheel motor. That got installed to the tram pump manifold area and slipped through before I lowered the engine the last couple inches just to make it easier on myself.
Now that I know how easy it is to remove/install the engine, I'm a lot more comfortable if I have to do it again. Also, pretty comfortable with the hydraulic hoses now that I bought two sets of those caps and plugs. Boy, you don't plug something on that and a hose drops below the level of the tank and you're gonna be cleaning up a lot of oil!
I had to buy two sets of them because I was short a couple when taking the thing apart. There were reasonably priced and now I have them forever.
OP
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- 66,099
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
You can see the tram pump/engine mounting plate pretty good in that first picture. Pretty slick if you think about it. All one unit.
It went in much easier with both pumps installed than the way I took it out by separating the pumps from the engine.
Also, I found one tab on the rubber lovejoy star cracked off between the tram pump coupler sections. So I ordered a new one and replaced that as well.
It went in much easier with both pumps installed than the way I took it out by separating the pumps from the engine.
Also, I found one tab on the rubber lovejoy star cracked off between the tram pump coupler sections. So I ordered a new one and replaced that as well.
OP
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- Aug 31, 2001
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
You can also see my tram pump bypass hose installed. No valve on mine for moving it around if I lose power. I'm contemplating putting a valve in that loop and just leaving it permanently installed. May come in handy some day, and I won't have to keep track of that hose in my tools/parts storage area.
Attachments
OP
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I also noticed in that picture you can see a hose sitting on the left rear wheel. That's the hose for the right rear wheel that had to slip through the engine mount. I had it sitting there so I wouldn't forget it.
OP
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Broken and new lovejoy stars
(click to enlarge)
(click to enlarge)
OP
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Color coded zip ties on hoses and pumps. Picture save your bacon!! 
(click to enlarge)
(click to enlarge)
Hmmmm…I had to have a bypass hose made last year so I could tow it out of the woods, after Terry directed me. (He told me where my valve was but 1. it was hard to get to, and 2. I couldn’t get it to turn. It was a vertical rod about approx 3/8” and had a through hole in it that a small shaft screwdriver could get in it to turn. I don’t think I had enough room to try and get any force on it to turn. After I explained what I had and was looking at he said he didn’t know I had the bypass ports—I didn’t know what they were—and told me to simply hook them up and I’d be good. Sure enough.)
I managed to get my phone down there to see what I was looking for.Attachments
Where is this part located??
OP
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Between the tramp pump and the engine.
There are three parts to the lovejoy connector:
Two hubs and the spider.
On this particular one, the hubs each have 4 fingers and the spider has 8.
One hub is mounted to the engine shaft, the other is mounted to the pump shaft, and the spider goes between them. They are sandwiched together with the pump mount. Apparently it takes up shock and allows for minor misalignment of the shafts and dampens vibration.
There's another one on the PTO pumps on the shaft on the other end of my engine.
(click to enlarge)
Pump hub.
Engine hub with spider installed as viewed through the pump mount with the pump removed.
That silver thing between seen coming out of the engine through the pump mount, still attached to the pump shaft.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
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- 66,099
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
The hubs are keyed to the shaft and have set screws. So you could adjust depth onto the shaft for adjustment if you had to.
However, this is the hub mounted on the pump. PT has cross drilled it and installed a pin to prevent the hub from going too deep onto the shaft. That's pretty convenient for me, as it got the hub back to the correct depth on the shaft very easily. Otherwise, you'd have to mark the shaft for depth or measure, etc... to ensure it gets back into the correct place.
Knowing now what I did not know then, if I'd have removed the engine with the pumps attached, I'd not have had to take the hub off the pump side to get everything out.
However, this is the hub mounted on the pump. PT has cross drilled it and installed a pin to prevent the hub from going too deep onto the shaft. That's pretty convenient for me, as it got the hub back to the correct depth on the shaft very easily. Otherwise, you'd have to mark the shaft for depth or measure, etc... to ensure it gets back into the correct place.
Knowing now what I did not know then, if I'd have removed the engine with the pumps attached, I'd not have had to take the hub off the pump side to get everything out.
ponytug
Super Member
Hmmm... I am used to the rubber spiders being the same size as the couplers. I doubt that it matters.
That is super nice of PT to cross drill and pin the coupler! That saves a bunch of fiddling around.
I wish that there was an access port to check on the state of the rubber spider. It is a wear item of an unknown lifespan, though the sound of a shattered/missing spider is usually quite noticeable.
All the best,
Peter
Wow! Good information and pics. Thanks much for that.
2manyrocks
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Detailed posts like this are great for understanding more about these machines. Thanks Moss Road.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,099
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Picked up a new battery yesterday ($200 ouch!). Had to loosen all 4 engine mounting bolts to slide the engine forward 1/8" to get it to slip in. Strapped it down securely.
Mounted muffler support and muffler.
Mounted hydroback device.
Connected all electrical.
Tried to connect the throttle cable and found it will not move with the lever. Removed it, took it to the vice, and worked it over a good long while. Lubed it up and reinstalled.
Put the ignition switch back in.
Installed the fuel tank and remounted the fuel pump. Connected all fuel lines.
Jacked the machine up and put on blocks with all 4 wheels off the ground.
CHECKED THE EINGINE OIL LEVEL FOR THE UMPTEENTH TIME just to make sure I don't dry start it. It's good. I did an oil/filter change while it was on the engine stand, but still paranoid I didn't refill it with oil.
Removed the spark plugs. Hooked up the battery and gave it a bump with the key. It spins. Yay!
Connected the bleed hose to the tram pump and put the other end in the hydraulic tank. Checked the tank level. OK.
Long day. Next thing to do is spin the engine with plugs removed until no more air bubbles from bleed hose. I suspect that may take a while, so I'll use the battery charger/starter to make it easier on the battery. Should spin pretty easy with the plugs out.
The only thing that I could not find in all my bags of parts, nicely labeled and stored, was the nylon nut that holds the post in the heim joint from the hydroback to the lever on top of the variable volume pump. Looks similar to this...
Grrrrr. It's 1/4" fine thread. Went to Home Depot and bought every variance of 1/4" thread nuts I could find, but figured it was 1/4"-28 thread. That's a rare bird, but found one with a star washer attached. Took it home and installed. OK.
Later in the day when moving the engine forward as mentioned above, I was under the machine and saw a shiny nylon nut laying there..... yep! It was the 1/4-28 that was missing. I honestly looked and swept under there multiple times. Oh well. I removed the nut with star washer and replaced with the nylon nut. I feel better now.
Mounted muffler support and muffler.
Mounted hydroback device.
Connected all electrical.
Tried to connect the throttle cable and found it will not move with the lever. Removed it, took it to the vice, and worked it over a good long while. Lubed it up and reinstalled.
Put the ignition switch back in.
Installed the fuel tank and remounted the fuel pump. Connected all fuel lines.
Jacked the machine up and put on blocks with all 4 wheels off the ground.
CHECKED THE EINGINE OIL LEVEL FOR THE UMPTEENTH TIME just to make sure I don't dry start it. It's good.
I did an oil/filter change while it was on the engine stand, but still paranoid I didn't refill it with oil. Removed the spark plugs. Hooked up the battery and gave it a bump with the key. It spins. Yay!
Connected the bleed hose to the tram pump and put the other end in the hydraulic tank. Checked the tank level. OK.
Long day. Next thing to do is spin the engine with plugs removed until no more air bubbles from bleed hose. I suspect that may take a while, so I'll use the battery charger/starter to make it easier on the battery. Should spin pretty easy with the plugs out.
The only thing that I could not find in all my bags of parts, nicely labeled and stored, was the nylon nut that holds the post in the heim joint from the hydroback to the lever on top of the variable volume pump. Looks similar to this...
Grrrrr. It's 1/4" fine thread. Went to Home Depot and bought every variance of 1/4" thread nuts I could find, but figured it was 1/4"-28 thread. That's a rare bird, but found one with a star washer attached. Took it home and installed. OK.
Later in the day when moving the engine forward as mentioned above, I was under the machine and saw a shiny nylon nut laying there..... yep! It was the 1/4-28 that was missing.
I honestly looked and swept under there multiple times. Oh well. I removed the nut with star washer and replaced with the nylon nut. I feel better now. 
