Rookie 3pt question

[LD1]

I wouldnt advise running the TL unhooked, especially to a rookie.

Now way to raise at the end of the turn, attempting to raise actually increases the angle of attack, and then if you forget and try to back up, you probably just bent or broke something

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I want to comment on this real quick since I dont feel it got addressed.

YES, Making the Top link longer will lower the back of the rake, and shortening it will raise it. But you dont want to make a habit of adjusting the TL like that with a blade or rake or anything that angles.

It will work fine if all you ever do is leave it straight. But you need the "framework" of a blade/rake (the plane in which it rotates around) to be level. Or In other words, you want the pivot pin vertical.

If you go messing with the toplink, and you try to angle the rake or blade, it may no longer be level and may only cut in on one side.

Also worth noting that if you are doing some ditching or wanting to create a crown in the road, adjusting TL length when the blade is angled is IMO an easier way than adjusting a sidelink

I don't profess to be an expert like some but look at the picture in the OPs first post. The Top Link while a longer one is COMPLETELY RETRACTED. Also look as how low the lift arms already are (maybe 5" of the ground). As others have stated; seem plenty low for any rake I have used.

On the three tractors with three different rakes (again not an "expert") I have used you could do whatever you want to correctly set the link attachment pins.... But with the top link that short the tines will not reach the ground (the rake frame will hit first).

LD1 is absolutely correct about the correct way to use the rake an I'm sure the OP appreciates the complete explaination. (Rather that some brief TBN pocket wisdom regurgitated).

In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel.

BTW he stated lengthening the top link DID fix the problem (although possibly with a disadvantageous rake angle as LD1 cautioned against). Post 16.

I see a lot of "experts" on TBN give commanding advice that is just regurgitated TBN dogma and is either flat-ot wrong or grossly incomplete.

 

[TerryR]

Also worth noting that if you are doing some ditching or wanting to create a crown in the road, adjusting TL length when the blade is angled is IMO an easier way than adjusting a sidelink

And much more effective, in my experience.

 

[sd455dan]

I don't profess to be an expert like some but look at the picture in the OPs first post. The Top Link while a longer one is COMPLETELY RETRACTED. Also look as how low the lift arms already are (maybe 5" of the ground). As others have stated; seem plenty low for any rake I have used.

On the three tractors with three different rakes (again not an "expert") I have used you could do whatever you want to correctly set the link attachment pins.... But with the top link that short the tines will not reach the ground (the rake frame will hit first).

LD1 is absolutely correct about the correct way to use the rake an I'm sure the OP appreciates the complete explaination. (Rather that some brief TBN pocket wisdom regurgitated).

In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel.

BTW he stated lengthening the top link DID fix the problem (although possibly with a disadvantageous rake angle as LD1 cautioned against). Post 16.

I see a lot of "experts" on TBN give commanding advice that is just regurgitated TBN dogma and is either flat-ot wrong or grossly incomplete.

(In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel. )

Very good point.

After looking at the original photo, and posting it looks ok to me,

Now thinking if the op posts a couple pictures of the rake in the lifted position, and lowered position ( first contact and also fully down) and also being pulled in the as operated position, it would make the adjustments (if needed) fairly obvious.

It is possible that the lift height will now be reduced by having moved the lower link pins. (if moved)
Most tractor manufacturers position the lower link pins in the most used location, at least that would make sense.

Op could you post some pictures? Heck it may be just perfect where every thing is set right now:thumbsup:

 

[SPYDERLK]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

Funny, my geography must be fuzzy. I thought Pennsylvania was a fair ways from Virginia? Oh well. Glad you guys figured it out. Lol.

 

[dirtymartini]

(In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel. )

Very good point.

After looking at the original photo, and posting it looks ok to me,

Now thinking if the op posts a couple pictures of the rake in the lifted position, and lowered position ( first contact and also fully down) and also being pulled in the as operated position, it would make the adjustments (if needed) fairly obvious.

It is possible that the lift height will now be reduced by having moved the lower link pins. (if moved)
Most tractor manufacturers position the lower link pins in the most used location, at least that would make sense.

Op could you post some pictures? Heck it may be just perfect where every thing is set right now:thumbsup:

I'll try to get some new pics tomorrow or Thursday. While the tines of the rake are scraping the ground the rake is not level, I just haven't had a chance to adjust anything else yet. I hate when my real job gets in the way!

 

[sd455dan]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

Maybe so- and it may prove your assessment right when new pictures are posted...
but how many cat 1 rakes are sitting ( level ) with the lift arm pins located at less than 8 inches off the ground?? OPs 1st pic- certainly looks like just a few inches.

Just measured my cat 1 Rake -and to be close to level, the lift pins are about 18 inches off the ground.
Obviously rake design varies, and there will be differences also there does need to be enough lift arm travel to accommodate actual in use raking conditions.
but It just seems as if Luke is right about the top link being screwed tight (shortest possible length) and the rake was (and possibly still is) front low when the tines touch the ground.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I just measured my 84" Cat1 rake, sitting on concrete. With it sitting level, front to back, the lift pins are 18 1/2" above floor.







I suspect this is fairly typical among Cat 1 rakes although, I did see an Armstrong Ag rake yesterday, with much longer rake tines, that would probably be about 24" when level.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Sorry, just looked it up and the Armstrong Ag rake I saw was a Cat 1 / Cat 2 HD version.



I do need to make a stand, for mine, like the Armstrong Ag rakes. Mine is a concrete block.

Their stand looks pretty simple.