Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[Iplayfarmer]

This Thanksgiving I'm thankful for a little free time to work on the workshop. I installed the second door and I installed a window. Dinner isn't until 4:00 tomorrow, so I may get some stuff done in the morning.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Today went really well. I got all of the windows installed. I ran out of flashing tape on the last window. After I get the flashing tape I'll finish taping up the last window. I also need to get some metal flashing for the door to the basement. It is HUGE to have the windows in. Here are some pictures of inside and out.

The next step is to make the garage style door and get it installed. Then I'll take some time off to finish up some projects on the house.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I need some help thinking through the pros and cons of how to insulate my garage door. My plan includes a wooden frame with an insulated core and a skin of 1/4" plywood. I have some styrofoam pieces that are 1.5" thick (pictured). I figure I have 3 options...

1) Make the core 1.5 inches thick and use a single layer of styrofoam: Overall door thickness = 2". Overall R-value = 7
2) Double the styrofoam and make the core 3 inches thick: Overall Door thickness = 3.5". Overall R-value = 14.
3) Buy something else completely and make it as thick as I want.

How cumbersome will a 3.5" door be? Is it worth the extra R-value? Is it worth the extra money to buy a different core?

 

[Depmandog]

I need some help thinking through the pros and cons of how to insulate my garage door. My plan includes a wooden frame with an insulated core and a skin of 1/4" plywood. I have some styrofoam pieces that are 1.5" thick (pictured). I figure I have 3 options...

1) Make the core 1.5 inches thick and use a single layer of styrofoam: Overall door thickness = 2". Overall R-value = 7
2) Double the styrofoam and make the core 3 inches thick: Overall Door thickness = 3.5". Overall R-value = 14.
3) Buy something else completely and make it as thick as I want.

How cumbersome will a 3.5" door be? Is it worth the extra R-value? Is it worth the extra money to buy a different core?

Refresh my memory on the door size, and if you want it to be a sectional overhead, a one piece lift up, a one or two piece slider or double door outward opening hinged door.

 

[MotorSeven]

I'd go 3.5.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Refresh my memory on the door size, and if you want it to be a sectional overhead, a one piece lift up, a one or two piece slider or double door outward opening hinged door.

The door is 6' wide X 7' high. It is in three sections, and it will roll up on garage door style tracks. I have a two different torsion springs to choose from so that I can have the right size.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

In doing a little of my own research I found this article... Energy-Efficient Garage Doors | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

The take home message as I see it is that no matter what kind of insulation I use, the more important part is sealing up the door against air leaks.

 

[Depmandog]

In doing a little of my own research I found this article... Energy-Efficient Garage Doors | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

The take home message as I see it is that no matter what kind of insulation I use, the more important part is sealing up the door against air leaks.

I concur! My building has 2 insulated overhead garage doors 10'x12', and one barn slider - insulated that I fabricated on site - 16'x 14'. The overhead doors seal pretty well (commercial). My slider leaks air. No more than I use it, I should never had built it. In fact, I keep it covered with plastic (north side of the building) to keep the drafts down.





You can see partially see my slider covered with plastic. Pay no mind to my boy. We were just having some guy time this weekend as he was home from college.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

... My slider leaks air. No more than I use it, I should never had built it. In fact, I keep it covered with plastic (north side of the building) to keep the drafts down...

How thick did you make that door?

I think I can seal this door. I have the rubber seals for the top and sides, and I have a bottom seal. I've also been thinking about using weather stripping installed in dadoes between the door panels.

 

[Depmandog]

I only have 1" polystyrene insulation board, which is comparable to what's in the commercial overhead doors.

The weatherstripping between the sections sounds like a good idea. I have seen some wooden doors with a routered mating profile between the sections also.

Personally, I don't think I would get carried away trying to make this door super thick. If you wander from standard sizing, your track would need to stand off from the wall more.