ROPS

[riptides]

If you cannot do the doors, what about the floors?

In my barn, built circa 1900 I had to basically leave the entrance ways clear and build up the floors when I put stalls in. End results are slight ramps for ingress and egress. I have only a few inches of ROPS clearance. And I always take it slow. One never knows when the barn may settle.

-Mike Z.

 

[Lasgambler]

Has the door opening been lowered? Or is the problem the roll up door is now what makes the opening lower? If it is the door, you can tighten the springs to give more headroom.

If it has horizontal springs over the door on the lift rod with set screws you should have a professional door man tighten these for you, as there have been people killed trying to do this task. Good Luck

 

[RoyJackson]

Has the door opening been lowered? Or is the problem the roll up door is now what makes the opening lower? If it is the door, you can tighten the springs to give more headroom.

If it has horizontal springs over the door on the lift rod with set screws you should have a professional door man tighten these for you, as there have been people killed trying to do this task. Good Luck

Depending on the type of door, bracketry and motor, it may be adjustable by a combination of changing the travel of the door (on mine, there were two adjustments on the door motor..travel and speed) and changing the bracket (if there is adjustment built into it. I had to do this to gain enough height to get my 790 in the garage. It took about an hour since I had no idea what I could do. I did not try to adjust the springs/torsion bars. I gained the required 2-2½" I needed.

However, as Lasgambler wrote, do not mess with those horizontal springs (which are actually springs tied into Torsion Bars which are under tension) unless you know what you're doing. Those torsion bars are under enough tension to seriously injure a person.
Also, those doors are a lot heavier then you think. The torsion bars/springs are there to ease lifting by the motor. I know I could not manually lift my door when my torsion bars broke (which was not the same door I adjusted).

Frankly, I'd go back to the contractor on this...or his boss.

 

[flINTLOCK]

The guy who installed it is supposedly checking to see how much adjustment there is. I haven't spoken to him personally, but have communicated through contractor who poured the slab and erected shed. From what I can see, there are 2 stops that limit upward travel to keep from rolling completely up into the can. They seem to have about 1.5" adjustment, max. Don't think that'll be enough, though. If I had known this was going to occur up front, could have probably shortened the metal panels above the header to gain the height before completely assembled. Would be much bigger undertaking at this point. We'll see.

 

[Soundguy]

Keep us posted. While it is 'your problem'.. it sounds like your contractor is the responsible party..

Soundguy

 

[SnowRidge]

Don't want to rain on your parade, but just clearing isn't good enough. You need more. If you don't have it, one day you or someone else will bounce the machine somehow, or the door will not be fully up, and your ROPS will smack the door. There will be damage.

I like a full foot of spare headroom, myself.

 

[RoyJackson]

Don't want to rain on your parade, but just clearing isn't good enough. You need more. If you don't have it, one day you or someone else will bounce the machine somehow, or the door will not be fully up, and your ROPS will smack the door. There will be damage.

I like a full foot of spare headroom, myself.

So would I...but an inch is all I'm going to have.

BTW, I don't know about you guys, but when I drive into the garage, I go extremely slow. Even if the door wasn't completely up...I doubt if I'd do any damage except cosmetic.