router bit recommendations

[TrueAmericanVeteran]

Hello to all,

Here's the power wood working tools I currently own:

All 120V's
2 tables saws
Jigsaw
Planer
Compound Miter Saw
Grinder
Oscillating tool
Sawzall [semi-wood working tool -

I have always wanted but never owned a router. However, a dear friend died and he wanted me to have a variety of different tools, one being a Rigid 18V compact router. I have viewed multiple YouTube videos on this specific tool, and one thing it really lacks is a good bit or set of bits. They also recommend buying 3-7 bits that you will use rather than a set of 20 bits. These sets are usually lower quality too, like from the big box stores.

Question:

Can anyone pls recommend a good set of router bits for the most common types of router cuts? Any advice from guys that use routers all the time, I would really appreciate what you recommend for someone that has never used a router, and what they would need for most of the basic cuts. However, I am more than willing to take advice and learn.

Finally, if there's a woodworking-site that demo's this type tool w great depth and it's bits, that would be greatly appreciated too.

Many thanks,
tstex

LumberJocks.com They have all the woodworking information one could ever ask for. They also have a forum just like this one

 

[STAYSAFE]

Hello to all,

Here's the power wood working tools I currently own:

All 120V's
2 tables saws
Jigsaw
Planer
Compound Miter Saw
Grinder
Oscillating tool
Sawzall [semi-wood working tool -

I have always wanted but never owned a router. However, a dear friend died and he wanted me to have a variety of different tools, one being a Rigid 18V compact router. I have viewed multiple YouTube videos on this specific tool, and one thing it really lacks is a good bit or set of bits. They also recommend buying 3-7 bits that you will use rather than a set of 20 bits. These sets are usually lower quality too, like from the big box stores.

Question:

Can anyone pls recommend a good set of router bits for the most common types of router cuts? Any advice from guys that use routers all the time, I would really appreciate what you recommend for someone that has never used a router, and what they would need for most of the basic cuts. However, I am more than willing to take advice and learn.

Finally, if there's a woodworking-site that demo's this type tool w great depth and it's bits, that would be greatly appreciated too.

Many thanks,
tstex

Buy them as you need them. That way you’ll avoid being a Conspicuous Consumer and keep the money. They come in sizes. So if someone suggests buying a “roundover” bit, you won’t have to run out and buy 4-roundover bits, AND ALSO, 4-cove bits, 4-ogee bits, 4-45° bits, 4-zero clearance bits, etc, etc

 

[djohns]

Yes most of the big box bits are junk, unless you find good brand names. Your best bet is to look to woodworking stores for bits. Rockler, Woodcraft, etc all have good quality stuff. Grizzly can be decent too in general, though I haven't used much of their router bits. Bosch, Amana, Eagle America, Whiteside... There are lots of good names out there. Eagle America has been my main go to source for years, Very good quality, decent prices, and much of it is made in America.

As for what types of bit to get, that is the age old question and is always met with "what do you want to do with them?"

• Straight bits are a mainstay, so you can't go wrong getting a few sizes of those.
• Edge trimming is also common along with pattern routing and those are both typically straight bits with a bearing on the shaft to follow the pattern or the edge of the base when trimming laminate, for example. They can have the bearing on top or bottom depending on need
• Edge forming bits are common. Roundovers are useful to buy in a set. A chamfer bit can be handy. Lots of specialty edge forming bits available like ogees, drop leaf table sets, etc
• Large bits are only for use in router tables or shapers and not for use with hand held routers, so those are out for your use at this point. They also take higher HP routers that can run at lower speeds.
• Shaft size is another issue to look at. typically 1/2" and 1/4" are the standards here. 1/2" are much sturdier but sometimes for very small bits 1/4" shaft is better to allow you to get closer without a large shaft getting in the way. And smaller trim routers are typically only 1/4" anyways.
• Carbide only, don't' bother with HSS on router bits
• If you do a lot of woodworking, one router will quickly become a sad joke as you will want to leave bits set up for jigs and fixtures so you can grab it and get going without a ton of setup. I have somewhere around 8-10 now and one friend has 20-something of them. Many are setup for a dovetail jig or hinge template or whatever.
• To start, if you get a set of a few straight and roundovers, that will cover a lot of needs. Then get more as needed for projects

Hope this helps.
Dave

Dave has hit all of the basics for you .... one thing I would like to add. Stay away from single edge/blade bits... always get a minimum of two cutting heads per bit. Reduces the chance of chatter greatly ... other than that if you follow what Dave said you will be good.

 

[tstex]

Ok Guys. I ordered an MLCS set of 15 bits in 1/4". I have plenty of scrap wood I will test and practice.

In the meantime, I value your experience on getting a 120V 1/2" router. Might as well start doing my research so whatever make & models that are reliable. I would rather spend a little more than less bc no one ever says their "tool is too powerful", so 2.5HP + should be a good starting point, also w variable speed too.

Thank you very much,
tstex

 

[Fxfymn413]

Might as well start doing my research so whatever make & models that are reliable

I think that you will find almost any Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, or if money is no object Festool routers are good choices. One thing to keep in mind is whether you want to get a plunge router or a fixed base unit. Plunge routers are more versatile, but usually run a bit more than fixed base units. My suggestion would be to get a plunge router.

Another suggestion is that if you really get into woodworking you will almost certainly end up with multiple routers, so try to buy a name brand that you can match up with if you end up adding to the fleet. That's so accessories like fences will work for all units.

I have several and I have never bought a new router. Find what you like and start looking on CL. marketplace, etc. I favor Bosch and Festool, but that has as much to do with staying with one brand for accessories as much as anything.

 

[PILOON]

LOL, think I now own 5 routers and countless bits.
Even made a DIY table that works well for me.
My most used router is a 3 HP 1/2" usually table mounted down to a small hand held 1/4" that usually lives with a small radius round over bit.
Over time I have relied on Freud bits as quality is decent and consistent.
I also bought a small quantity of 1/2" used reground straight commercial bits for a repetitive type of project where I use a jig for repetition and a few thou of regrind matters not.

I do like to have each router dedicated as changing bits frequently is sure time consuming.

With my table and 3 HP I've saved big $$'s making all my trim moldings when I DIY'd my home.
That from chair rail, window & door trim, chair rails and even nice picture frames.
Heck, once set up I made all the trim for a 3 BR house in about a 1/2 day and saved tons of $$'s compared to store bought trim.
I even made my rosettes for window trim.

 

[tstex]

LOL, think I now own 5 routers and countless bits.
Even made a DIY table that works well for me.
My most used router is a 3 HP 1/2" usually table mounted down to a small hand held 1/4" that usually lives with a small radius round over bit.
Over time I have relied on Freud bits as quality is decent and consistent.
I also bought a small quantity of 1/2" used reground straight commercial bits for a repetitive type of project where I use a jig for repetition and a few thou of regrind matters not.

I do like to have each router dedicated as changing bits frequently is sure time consuming.

With my table and 3 HP I've saved big $$'s making all my trim moldings when I DIY'd my home.
That from chair rail, window & door trim, chair rails and even nice picture frames.
Heck, once set up I made all the trim for a 3 BR house in about a 1/2 day and saved tons of $$'s compared to store bought trim.
I even made my rosettes for window trim.

Thanks Pil

if you have any plans/design for pictures frames that you would not mind sharing, that would be great. Thank you either way.

 

[PILOON]

Thanks Pil

if you have any plans/design for pictures frames that you would not mind sharing, that would be great. Thank you either way.

Sorry, no plans per say as I mostly do 'trial and error' 'til I like the effect.

What I've always liked was a wall chart that showed all the effects of what each bit did.
Like it is hard to visualize the reverse effect of the bit will produce.
Some times U need 2 frames, like mount one over the other to combine into a final frame.
I also have a professional matte cutter* rig to create mattes but buying the proper material is another whole story. .
Those guys like to price the whole matte and keep the inside for future profit.

*nice garage sale item! (all of $15.00). Mine is manual while all the pros have gone to CAD units.
OK. took a bit of practice but after 10 mins I had it down pat.

Hey router work is fun, but wear a mask, dust can lead to COPD.

 

[tstex]

Fair enough PIL. I’ll have to do the trial and error and test the bits..

 

[3Ts]

I only have 2 routers, a small 1/4" trim router used mostly for small radius round overs and a 2hp one that I move between my table and free hand. I was making moldings for wife's craft cabin and let some of the smoke out of the router so she got me a 3hp shaper and a couple of cutters. Not all of the smoke got out so it still works, but not sure for how long.

Be aware that there are routers out there that have both the fixed base and plunge base so you can switch between the two. I do not have a plunge router but wish I did.

 

[dstig1]

The Porter Cable 690 is the classic all purpose go-to router in woodworking. Cheap and very functional. They offer it with various bases including fixed, D-handle and plunge. Each has their benefits/drawbacks and uses. The number might vary depending on the kit so like 691, 692, etc but they are all built around the same 690 motor base. It does help to make sure you get something that has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets to be flexible.

If you get serious about a router table, it pays to get a "3hp" router for those. The quotes are because they call them 3hp but you can't draw 3 hp from any normal 120V outlet, so it is like the shop vacs that claim 1000 hp but in reality are maybe 1/2 hp at best. But the bigger routers are best for table use. You can use a 690 in a table for lighter work, and that can be handy too, but you can't spin big bits with them as you have to be able to reduce the speed or you will exceed the bit speed rating on fixed speed routers. 690's and many in that class are single speed. And router tables can be anything from a hole in a piece of plywood to very elaborate.

And then when you want even more capability, we will start talking about Shapers

 

[tstex]

Thanks 3T. I’m thinking of burning anything that smells bad in the garage and roll my wife’s car windows done a bit. I’ll then leave a router catalog on kitchen counter to a 3HP plunge router and see where it leads !

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The Porter Cable 690 is the classic all purpose go-to router in woodworking. Cheap and very functional. They offer it with various bases including fixed, D-handle and plunge. Each has their benefits/drawbacks and uses. The number might vary depending on the kit so like 691, 692, etc but they are all built around the same 690 motor base. It does help to make sure you get something that has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets to be flexible.

If you get serious about a router table, it pays to get a "3hp" router for those. The quotes are because they call them 3hp but you can't draw 3 hp from any normal 120V outlet, so it is like the shop vacs that claim 1000 hp but in reality are maybe 1/2 hp at best. But the bigger routers are best for table use. You can use a 690 in a table for lighter work, and that can be handy too, but you can't spin big bits with them as you have to be able to reduce the speed or you will exceed the bit speed rating on fixed speed routers. 690's and many in that class are single speed. And router tables can be anything from a hole in a piece of plywood to very elaborate.

And then when you want even more capability, we will start talking about Shapers

Sad part is, there are NO MORE Porter Cable routers! The entire line has been discontinued! That's really sad as I have 5 or 6 PC Routers alone!! Black and Wacker owns PC and took them off the market, they were the routers others were judged by!

You are right about the fake hp... It takes 10 amps to make a HP, and in MY experience, I like to see 12 amps on the name plate, per HP. Those big routers draw 15 amps, you do the math!

Like my buddy use to say, look at a toaster, how many hp is yours? lol

SR

 

[Egon]

If you are looking at new routers keep in mind the physical size and location of the on/off switch. Ergonomics that suit your hands. This changes when the router is mounted to a table.

The regular inexpensive carbide tipped router bits of today could be considered heaven to some of the steel bits of fifty years ago.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Sad part is, there are NO MORE Porter Cable routers!

That's why I didn't mention P-C in my list of good routers. Sadly P-C has gone the route of so many legacy brands where they are bought out and then marketed as an inexpensive tool living off of their previous reputation as a quality tool. Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, and Porter-Cable are all examples of this.

 

[tstex]

Thanks for the add'l info guys, makes a lot of sense.

I have a really good P-Cable nail gun that I bought over 20 yrs ago...bought a Troy-Bilt Tiller in 1997 and it's a tank...starts on first pull after a year...they just don't make anything like they used to...it's all planned obsolescence...

 

[jaxs]

While it can be intertaining and pass some time,chewing the fat around foeums is a poor way of chosing tools. People's dedication and brand faitfulnes to obsolete tools doesn't help unless shopping for used or vintage tools. Wood magazine routinly test's current popular brand tools then rate's them. Their tests include best value and other catagories. Remind's me of people praising 12 valve Cummins in conversations about choosing a new truck.

 

[spitter]

I'm with sawyer rob . After 45 years of wood working the only router bits I buy is CMT and Freud . The have outlasted every other brand I bought buy light years . CMT being the sharpest quietest chip resistant bit I have found.

I never foud a router table pre made worth the exorbdant price the charge. Build your own . Good practice you will learn alot ,and you can customize it to fit your needs. Norm has a good video on how to build a R.T. Woodpeckers has great router lifts. But many other brands out there.


I have 20 some od routers The only ones I like are my P.C.'s . Your better off looking on C.L. or F.B. for a slightly used 690 like DSTIG 1 pointed out . I have bought routers in emergency to get a job done and never used it again because it felt crap in my hands. If you can wait for a trade show or go to a place where you can try out tools that is the best bet.

 

[gstrom99]

That's why I didn't mention P-C in my list of good routers. Sadly P-C has gone the route of so many legacy brands where they are bought out and then marketed as an inexpensive tool living off of their previous reputation as a quality tool. Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, and Porter-Cable are all examples of this.

Okay. Another newbie here, without any router (or experience with them). Any other specific models to search for? Another post listed Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee... What about the Mastercraft, at Menards?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Okay. Another newbie here, without any router (or experience with them). Any other specific models to search for? Another post listed Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee... What about the Mastercraft, at Menards?

My opinion is, I would stick to the other brands on your list.

I'm thinking about buying another router too, and as new PC's are off the table, I'm leaning toward Bosch.

If I was starting out new, I'd buy a "kit" that includes both, the fixed base and the plunge base in the kit, it's cheaper than buying separate and you WILL want both bases later.

SR