router bit recommendations

[ljjhouser]

Routers are not overly expensive. Might want to get one (plug in 120v). It should have a removeable clear view of the cutter, a light, easy to control on off button, a good edge guide, and come in a bag with space for cutters.
As stated above, Carbide Only.
The straight ones are very important. Use to cut dado joints and rabbit joints. Or any grove. Dovetail joints are good also with a router. Get a few sizes up to 3/4" - Take several shallow passes when using bigger cuts. I like to make the last pass pulling the router to me, never pushing it away. And a router shouldn't exist without a Roman Ogee cutter for decorative edge cutting. Take it easy when ending the cut at both ends. Have fun. Also, get a broom or shop vac. But with all the other tools you have, I would guess that you already have a vac. Have Fun.

 

[tstex]

Based on everyone's comments and viewing videos, I definitely understand when you get into serious woodworking, that multiples of everything are important and quality counts,

Since I have never used a router, thought it might be good to go w some bits that fit my 1/4" router, then expand into a more robust 1/2" shaft based bits and much more HP and a table. For now, these are the bits that I think would be good to start. Pls let know on any modifications from these selections:

Round-over bit, 1/4 & 1/8 for varying projects to smooth out edges
Rabbet bit, 1/2" w bearing kit
Ogee Roman, for picture frames
Chamfer bit 45 degree. Is there a preferred height or size?
Slot bit - is 1/8 or 1/4 more of a standard?
Flush Trim Bit (bearing on the bottom)

If there's anything else, pls let me know. I know that solid carbide is the eventual way to go, but carbide tipped should be good for now until I get a better feel of what cuts I really want to do. If there's a set that encompasses the above and a few more needed bits, pls send me a link.

Again, thank you all for your help. I am mostly going to be working w cedar and that's not too hard of a wood, pine too, but then I have a lot of oak. It's fully cured and it's going to require 1/2" shank w a 120V and not 18V...

 

[tstex]

I had this cedar tree milled from my ranch 3 yrs ago and want to make a cabinet. This will be my first project.

 

[ljjhouser]

Woods like pine and fir are good for practice. They cut easy but often leave marks from the tip of the guide if not ball bearing. Harder woods such as Oak, walnut and maple will be a dream to cut. Smooth and clean. Cedar will cut clean also.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I like Freud, CMT is another good brand, I pretty much use all Freud sawblades too... I used all kinds of brands in my cabinet shop, and the Freuds always are very good.

I'm still buying them because they are a decent price, for as good of quality that they are.

SR

 

[jaxs]

Your shop is sure going to smell good when you use that Cedar.

 

[civilian]

Your shop is sure going to smell good when you use that Cedar.

For the OP, cedar dust is fine and may have more health related problems. Use a mask, respirator, etc and maybe a shop vacuum running to pull fumes/dust away from you. Jon

 

[Fxfymn413]

Technique is every bit as important as the bit you use. If you put the board on the bench to route the edges to route the front edge you must start at the left side and go from left to right. Conversely if you are routing the back edge you must start at the right end and move right to left. In other words the router must go in a counter clockwise direction. If you try to go in the opposite direction with the router the bit will "climb" out and is very difficult to control. The same rule applies for doing a dado cut.

If you are routing all four sides of a board always route the ends first to limit tear out of the edges.

Take small passes and try to make your last pass very small to clean up the cut.

Find some scraps and practice before you try to route an expensive piece of material. Figure out how you are going to support the router to keep it vertical to the cut and make "practice " passes with the router off and the bit pulled up to make sure you can move the machine the way you are planning to.

I have well over 50 bits in my collection and frankly if it is a one-off cut for a specific project I'll buy a cheap bit. The quality of the bit is usually reflected in how well it holds up to heavy use and if you are not doing a lot of cutting I would stick with the various sets from Taiwan or China that are less than $50.00.

Buy a can of bit cleaner and keep the bearings clean as well.

 

[Egon]

Beginner routing:

For bits just start with an inexpensive hardware store set. Practice lots on scrap wood. When the time comes for real work get specific quality bits for the job at hand. Might look at a better router also.

practice and watching you tube videos will be of great help.

 

[tstex]

Thank you guys, great advice...I am still watching videos on the various cuts and applications so I know what bits to invest in first...