Rust Penetrant Recomendations

   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations
  • Thread Starter
#31  
If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.

Definately. ive done that trick lots. works good. I should be able to get the visegrips on the exposed stud though...
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #32  
Kroil is the best rust buster I've ever used. Spary it on and let it sit for a day or more and the most rusted together parts come loose with ease.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations
  • Thread Starter
#33  
The manifolds are changed. Glad that job is over.:D

I tried PB Blaster, it might be a little better than the GM stuff, however it still aint Kroil. Ive been bugging my local parts places to get a couple cases of Kroil. I figure it would be easier / cheaper for them to deal with customs as they have their own brokers and are set up to deal with hazardous goods. They're going to look into it and let me know. They may not be able to bring it to Canada due to the requirements that the labels be in English and French:rolleyes:. Oh well. Guess Ill have to find a new job where they use it if i cant buy it .:D
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #34  
Well, as the question addresses "Rust Penetrant Recomendations", I didn't address heat. It's my number one option. If i get ambitious enough to fix my exhaust manifold, I'll fit a torch up there somehow, or burn the truck up trying.
Mapp gas is a good substitute for a acetylene torch and better than a propane torch.

Steve; also known as an ASE Master Tech.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #35  
If it just a rusted nut that I can't get off inside of 15 minutes using PBlaster I get out my nut cutter. That takes about a minute. It forces a sharp wedge through the side of the nut. Generally you can pick the nut off with your fingers after that.

I have had mine for 30 thirty years but they are still around.

Rusted studs are a different matter: PBlaster then heat have been the most effective for me. I have two different stud "grabbers" that I can use with a 1/2" breaker bar for the first try.

Vernon

Here is what they look like: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...n=TL&cm_cat=ERK&cm_pla=Google&cm_ite=handtool
 
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   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #36  
I've had one of those for years but found it to bulky to fit into most of the areas I needed it.:(
As a mentor told me, "Heat is your friend" (he was a auto mechanic from new york, and saw more rusted bolts than I)
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Here in Nova Scotia one thing we know is rust :D Heat is definitely your friend. I heated all the studs I removed as well as used penetrating fluid. Jobs like that remind me why i pay $100 a year for my bottle lease:)

All good recommendations in this thread so far. I notice nobody recommended WD40 :D

When i started this thread, i was hoping that someone out there had came across a "be all and end all" head to head test of penetrating fluids. Honestly im kinda surprised that there isnt one out there.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #38  
I've heard good things about Rust Reaper but I've never used it. PB works pretty well, but it does have a nasty odor to it, especially in the cold wet winters of the Pacific NW where it take a whiles for the VOCs to boil off.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #39  
Here in Nova Scotia one thing we know is rust :D Heat is definitely your friend. I heated all the studs I removed as well as used penetrating fluid. Jobs like that remind me why i pay $100 a year for my bottle lease:)

All good recommendations in this thread so far. I notice nobody recommended WD40 :D

When i started this thread, i was hoping that someone out there had came across a "be all and end all" head to head test of penetrating fluids. Honestly im kinda surprised that there isnt one out there.


Well, just to not disapoint you--

I have used heat (even simple plumbers torch) and WD-40 more than once with good results , sometimes however I needed a second application but once cracked they come out nicely.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #40  
Soak it with PB. Wait about 15-30 minutes. Light the oxy torch. Soak it with PB again. Hit it with the torch while the PB is still volatile. Unscrew.
If it is too cold out, and the PB won't spray, heat the PB can with the torch. If something goes wrong, run, and claim no responsibility.
But really, the first part works. Someone complained about the smell of PB. Hmmph. I kind of like it. It is better than the smell of my sweat and swearing.
 
 
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