RV trailer frame for flatbed

[handirifle]

I know this has been brought up before but let me say up front I am looking for something that might end up rated at 6-8K. Not planning on hauling super loads, just want something to move long lumber or piping when needed around the place, and maybe the wifes Honda if anything ever breaks. I have 2 neighbors that have built super heavy ones (from scratch. One from FREE steel), one is a certified welder, so technical help will be available for the asking. I will be making mine into a goose neck because I absolutely love the maneuverability of goose necks.

All that said, is there an easy way, when I look at bare RV rolling frames, to know what the factory axles are rated for?

One example is a 26ft dual axle, pull trailer frame. I will convert to GN, and shorten the bed to 16-18ft, might go 20, and move the axles forward, accordingly. I can get rolling frames under $500 like this, and my time welding is no concern for $$$ (retired).

The real question is the axles.

Thanks

 

[dclynch]

I made a 5th wheel out of a 30' RV frame granted this was a older trailer that had a hefty frame under it. (we also added a bunch of supports) I took it into a trailer sales place to find out what the axles were rated at and by looking they said at least 4,000 lbs. I cut 4' and now have a 26' deck off and am now able to haul my tractor rotary cutter and rototiller all in the same trip. It pulls fantastic and I am very pleased with it.

 

[bcp]

Some answers here, and scroll down for links to similar questions.

How To Determine the Weight Capacity For a Trailer Axle | etrailer.com

Bruce

 

[handirifle]

Thanks, will look over the link. I do plan on getting an older one also, they do seem heavier. Were those 4K each? That would work out well, put some heavy duty tires on it.

 

[handirifle]

This is one I was looking at. Just for an idea. I won't be doing this for some time yet, but planning ahead. These things pop up ever so often.

I plan on using the steel I remove from the extra length to strengthen and build the GN portion. A 5th wheel frame would be ideal, just would beef it up some in the hitch area, and wherever else needed to control frame flex.

 

[Mace Canute]

That reminds me of when we built a tilt deck trailer to haul our Stock Car way back coming up on 20 years ago. We started off with a smaller RV trailer and went from there.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Wouldnt it just be easier to start from scratch? By the time you try and beef up the frame and repair what you bend or break, the frustration would drive me nuts.

 

[Jimbrown]

Is that an RV frame or a house trailer frame. They ain't the same thing. House trailer axles are designed for one or two time use and not for continued use on the highway. House trailer axles are not legal on utility trailers in some states. Dexter does not recommend house trailer axles be used on utility trailers. Most house trailer have 14in wheels, most smaller travel trailer have 15 in and the larger ones have 16 in.

 

[nc redneck]

I find new trailers are cheap considering steel cost, labor,paint, if you use it for several years resale is high also. If RV frame look for box tubing not I beam, toy hauler, large heavy 5th wheel type frame. Mobile home frames are junk plus you can no longer get a title for them in my state as homemade. Makes resale worth almost nothing
Good Luck
Scott

 

[handirifle]

OK thanks for the feedback. Wasn't aware of the differences between RV and MH frames. Sometimes there are RV's ready to haul off for the asking. I would still prefer to start with a 5th wheel frame. As I mentioned previously I won't be hauling any 10K loads so not worrying about bending a frame.

Around here a ready made one, even used will be several thousand dollars, money I don't have. Am retired, so labor is free and if I can get the scrap, materials will be at least affordable.

Local DMV gave me no issues on my last trailer build. It was a former farm trailer, used to haul bins full of grapes. The problem is it is only 4x8 in the bed. Sometimes I need a longer one and a flatbed for accessibility.

 

[zing]

Maybe look into old steel gooseneck horse or stock trailers on CL. Everyone is moving to aluminum now, so they don't command a large price. If you can find one that still has a good frame you might be able to strip off the top and get yourself a good flat deck for cheap. At least you would know you are getting a solid frame and good axles with a known carrying capacity.

 

[handirifle]

Good idea, on the horse/stock trailer. Might have to keep my eyes open.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good idea, on the horse/stock trailer. Might have to keep my eyes open.

I had a client try this. Bent a GN stock trailer in hand with a Ford 8N. Stock and Horse trailers are usually shot to start with at your price point and they get their strength from the side walls. Cut them off and it will fold just like his did.

Chris

 

[zing]

I had a client try this. Bent a GN stock trailer in hand with a Ford 8N. Stock and Horse trailers are usually shot to start with at your price point and they get their strength from the side walls. Cut them off and it will fold just like his did.

Chris

Interesting, I hadn't thought about the strength from the sides, but it makes sense. Where did it fold, at the corner of floor and rise of the gooseneck, or somewhere else? Perhaps some bracing on an angle welded to the floor and the rise to the gooseneck would be able to compensate for the strength lost by removing the sides.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Interesting, I hadn't thought about the strength from the sides, but it makes sense. Where did it fold, at the corner of floor and rise of the gooseneck, or somewhere else? Perhaps some bracing on an angle welded to the floor and the rise to the gooseneck would be able to compensate for the strength lost by removing the sides.

It folded just forward of the front axle. Most stock trailers have the axles set far back for a better ride. This leaves most of the floor area in front of the axles.

There is a reason each type of trailer is built different. They each serve a purpose. If you need to haul equipment get the right trailer, if you need a camper get a camper, ect. I have been in this business part time since the late 80's. Two things have not changed.

1st, you can't build what you need cheaper than you can buy it.

2nd, 9 times out of 10 a used trailer will cost you more than a new one in the first 12 months.

Chris

 

[GPintheMitten]

I yearned for a flatbed for years. I thought about getting an old mobile home frame or better yet an old RV frame.

I finally bought a used flatbed trailer double axle. It is a perfect size and strong enough for my little kubota.

I did some work on it but it was still cheaper than a new trailer. I probably got lucky.

 

[Renze]

Wouldnt it just be easier to start from scratch? By the time you try and beef up the frame and repair what you bend or break, the frustration would drive me nuts.

I agree, if you can afford it right at the start, start from scratch. such a modification will cost way, way more time, and thereby spread the capital outlay over some more months. In the end it usually costs the same.

I'd make a design that incorporates some steel profiles from the existing trailer, but take it apart so you dont have to work around design choices of the original trailer maker, and change it yet again down the road...

 

[handirifle]

Yea all good points, it's just the outlay all at once on a ready built seems to "hurt" more.

 

[aczlan]

Yea all good points, it's just the outlay all at once on a ready built seems to "hurt" more.

As the saying goes, buy once, cry once.

Aaron Z

 

[handirifle]

:cryingeyesout: :cryingeyesout: :cryingeyesout: :cryingeyesout: Yup!