Safe mowing on slopes

[daugen]

I searched this but didn't find a good thread, though I'm sure it's here. I'd appreciate some advice. I have 18 acres to mow with a 2000 pound IH compact tractor, 25hp, Land Pride 1260 mower on the three point.

I have mowed my friend's property with a Gravely garden tractor and had no stability problems whatsoever. Then I mowed it with a zero turn and it got pretty dicey at the tops of hills when trying to turn. I've got a bunch of places where the tree line stops and the grassy part drops off from there, one is like an amphitheater, a big bowl, kinda. My tractor has a ROPS and I will sure use the seat belt, but I'm trying to avoid the OH NO feeling when the thing starts to tip at the top of the hill when I'm making a 90 degree turn.

Grew up on a farm driving a JD B that was tippy as heck. And 25 years ago, while an active volunteer fireman locally, I was second on the scene with the rescue squad on a well known and respected local farmer's property, where his sixteen year old son had rolled their tractor, I think an older Farmall, on top of himself on a hill. When I got there his Dad was holding him in his arms while the son died. Talk about leaving a lifetime impression.

So, not wanting to repeat that awful memory, could you pros give some tips on what to do and what not do do? I've got common sense but I'm still a little nervous about running a tractor and rear mower on slopes. Since I haven't done it before, I don't have the "seat feel" on this.

Seriously oversize R1 tires on the rear and new turf tires on the front, which really should be tri-rib or something else with better lateral grip. I am also installing a 300 pound weight box in front shortly.

So what's the safest way to do this? Thank you. Drew

 

[JimRB]

If you are nervous maybe you should get a cage built for the tractor with thick padding anywhere you can hit with screens to keep your body parts inside the cage. Cage is cheaper than death. Widest offset of rear tires if you have offset rims. Or use alternative mowers like a higher horsepower line trimmer at the top of the hills. An hour of weed wacking beats rolling down the hill. Remember, which I am sure you will, that getting close to the edge of rollover performance on a tractor can quickly go over the edge with a groundhog hole or anything that is a quick drop off. Heck even a bit of dew can cause some excitement.

Pictures of the property?

 

[KYDan]

Do you have 4WD on the tractor? If so, the front and rears should be matched. I have some steep terrain that I mow and I either drive up and back down or vice versa. It takes a little more time and fuel, but it works. A rollover even with ROPs and seat belts is still scary and dangerous, not to mention damaging to your tractor. Be careful!

 

[Deere Dude]

Not knowing how steep your property is and the cutting pattern, would it be possibly to just mow up and down the hill? If it were me, I would consider loaded rear tires with RimGuard and wheel weights at the very least. This puts a lot of weight right on the ground. The bad thing about that is you are pushing and extra 1000# around. Consider also about 4" spacers for the rears.

I have a 3720 which is narrow when new, but spacers and fluid makes all the difference in the world. But I still wouldn't take it on a hill that a weighted garden tractor handles with ease. The center of gravity is way different with a taller tractor.

I would work on less steep area to just get a feel of the tippiness and graduate up as the comfort level goes up, knowing that a pot hole or a rock can suddenly throw the center of gravity off.

You will get lots of input on this thread coming, I am sure. Be safe and don't push it past the comfort mark.

 

[MarkV]

Sometimes going up and down to eliminate the turn is the best option. Several other things that will help with stability is liquid ballast in the rear tires, set the rears at the widest setting if adjustable, stay off the grass when wet. Is there anyway to cut back the tree line to provide a safer turning area?

MarkV

 

[daugen]

I'm a retired insurance agent and pretty risk averse so before I let out the clutch, I'm trying to think this one through. I know there are different mowing patterns that can help here. And my "fallback" position (not a good term here....) is to just mow the steep parts with my Gravely garden tractor, which has a super low center of gravity plus all terrain tires on it.

I don't think I have the right pics onfile so I'll take a few in the next day or so and post them. Some of these fields are just beautiful rolling fields, but a few near the main house are on a pretty hilly sloping area. I may just wuss out and just mow it with something I know works and is within my comfort level, and experience. I'm too old to start experimenting with gravity...

And to further add caution, the good retired doctor who owns the beautiful property on which I farm had his own mishap last year. After all that rain, the sod near his pond slid out from under his big Gravely zero turn and pitched him over the edge of the pond, he flying into the water, with an 1100 pound zero turn literally landing on top of him. Many broken bones, for a guy in his mid seventies, and truly lucky to have gotten out alive. So his wife is constantly on his case, and mine, about being safe. I don't care if I walk out a rollover unscathed, she would end my farming on the spot. So I really, really want to stay vertical.

Pics to follow. Thanks

 

[TripleR]

Just a few of the many threads on this:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/216495-operating-hilly-ground-you-level.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/199464-slopes-tractor-tilt.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/11237-best-mountain-tractor.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/safety/183299-how-steep-too-steep-how.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/165640-operating-tractor-grade.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/safety/183762-how-kill-yourself-without-knowing.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/safety/186232-whos-better-estimating-slope-angles.html

 

[daugen]

thanks TripleR. My search technique isn't very good for sure.
I'll read all these, thank you, and will be back in a day or two with terrain pics.
Drew

 

[Fossil Farm]

I mow a pond dam that is between a 2:1 and 3:1 slope. I would never consider mowing that with my Case-IH 255, the same tractor you have. The rear wheels are only 4 feet apart and the center of gravity is too high. I would not even mow it up and down the slope since it is such a small tractor. I had a Massey 35 which allowed me to mow it across the slope with no problem. Front and back wheels were much further apart (adjustable front) and a much lower center of gravity. My JD 5105 does a good job, but I now take more of an up-down path. A higher center of gravity, but the wheel spacing is about the same as the Massey.

If you feel safer with the Gravely, then by all means use it. It may take longer, but that is better than having an accident of any kind. It might just be a good excuse to purchase another tractor if at all possible !! Use a mower with a low center of gravity, wide base and good tires and go slow. Good luck.

 

[JohnDeere4300]

I have some steep terrain that I mow and I either drive up and back down or vice versa. It takes a little more time and fuel, but it works. A rollover even with ROPs and seat belts is still scary and dangerous, not to mention damaging to your tractor. Be careful!

That's the way I mow on steep hills too!!!

On one steep hill I have a fence at the top that separates my back yard from my hunting property... When using a Bush-Hog on my tractor, I have to back up the hill! ... Yeah, It takes a little more time, But it's much safer!!!... I have my son use a weed-eater along the fence and where I can't get the Bush-Hog.

I have mowed it before sideways with one of my lawn tractors and rolled it a couple times.... Lucky I wasn't hurt!!!

Another thing to watch out for when mowing on steep hills is: rocks, holes and small mounds of dirt... If one of your back wheels ran over one of them or dropped in a hole then you could flip, Especially when mowing sideways!

Here's a picture of one of the hills that I have to back up when mowing.. (It's steeper than what it appears in the picture).... Also, pictures of some holes where some old stumps was on the hill... I filled them full of rock and then filled dirt over the rocks!

Bill

 

[TripleR]

thanks TripleR. My search technique isn't very good for sure.
I'll read all these, thank you, and will be back in a day or two with terrain pics.
Drew

I just happened to remember the right phrases having read them, search gives you so many options it really takes a lot of sifting to find the right thread.

As mentioned by another poster, pictures can be deceiving, so what might not look too bad really is.

 

[rekees4300]

So what's the safest way to do this?

Always keep the front of the tractor pointed downhill. In other words mow up the hill in reverse, go back down the hill retracing same tracks, at the bottom of the hill (on level ground) realign tractor for next cut, repeat all steps until mowing is done. NEVER make a turn or change directions on a hill.

 

[creekbend]

It is apparent that you have reviewed the other threads that were posted in regards to this subject in the past on TBN. Please adhere to the following: (1) Avoid changing gears when climbing or descending a slope (2) If operating on a slope, never disengage the clutch or shift levers to neutral. Doing so, could result in loss of control (3) Before descending a slope, shift to a gear low enough to control your speed without using the brakes. In retrospect, please be careful and remain alert in regards to your environment and the changes in the terrain.

 

[CompactTractorFan]

IMO, get a walk-behind mower for the steep hills...That's what we do...Much safer...:thumbsup:

...but, I know it's easy to spend your money...

 

[daugen]

Wow, I read most of the prior posts, and despite my clearly belonging in the
"non-math" ability crowd, I'm pretty sure that my confidence level is far below that of any max spec on any equipment.

I'm trying to avoid using my Gravely to mow the slopes because it will only cut at around six inches, and I'm trying to mow the rest at eight.

I am putting in a large garden on this farm, owned by a close friend. The sloping area isn't far from the flatter level where the garden is, and yesterday I needed to mow the area around the garden. So while I was mowing I was looking over at the sloped area, shaped like half a bowl, (for us old farts, would make a nice mini-Woodstock...) and the answer was really easy. It will only take me about an hour at most to mow the hill with the smaller machine, so I realized at least for me the issue is moot, just be safe and use the Gravely. I'll experiment by running the tractor along the slope to see where my comfort level leaves me, likely pretty low. My tractor is due back from the shop with a new Michigan suspension seat from Northern Tools installed, and I'm hoping that will hold me in place better, as well as being seriously more comfortable overall. So I don't think I"ll slide too much in this seat, but then, I don't want to...

I don't want to hang on for "dear life" and I know with the big R1 tires I've got, they may not lose traction gradually on a slope.

And I found some pics I took to illustrate why even shallow slopes can be super dangerous if the ground gives out underneath you. My retired doctor friend was very lucky to crawl out from the bottom of his pond, and I do mean crawl with many broken bones including his back. Do not do this at home...

Ultimately nothing beats safety. The problem really arises when one can't afford that super expensive slope mower, and tries to make do, as most of us do, with what one has. Run what you brung. Just have to do it safely, and know when to revert back to walk behinds and even a string trimmer.

 

[MarkV]

Daugen I know the subject was mentioned before but do you have your rear tires loaded with liquid ballast? That will make more difference in stability on a small tractor than anything else you can do. You will also gain a great deal in the traction department.

MarkV

 

[MikeInEburg]

The BEST solution is to use roundup to kill all if the grass, the install landscaping that doesn't require mowing. Is grass worth life and limb?

 

[DKCDKC]

Having grown up with a tricycle gear JD, I have always worried about tipping. I still do, with a JD CUT and loaded tires. I have learned to deal with hills, going up and down. What gets me now is trimming along the drive or driving across a field and hitting a rut or hole. I actually had two wheels off the ground for a few seconds a week ago. Gave me the willies. I have learned to go very slowly in some areas, even getting off to walk the way and make sure about holes, rocks or old stumps. If you're on even a slight angle, something small can make the difference.

I am aware of tractor rollover accidents around here, and a good many of them did not occur on steep slopes. A neighbor farmer died when he went on flat ground a little too close to a creek bank and it caved in. Tractors are potentially dangerous machines and you simply have to be alert constantly.

 

[daugen]

do you have your rear tires loaded with liquid ballast

No, it's still pretty new to me and I was a little concerned about potentially adding 30-50% more weight to a 25hp 2000 pound tractor. I realize the weight isn't really "on" the tractor, but I'm thinking of mowing up gradual slopes and I'm already seriously pushing the limit with a 60 mower on a 21hp pto tractor.

We had some serious inclines in spots on the farm I grew up on, with a tricycle front B. My memory was that the tractor at least was set up with the rear wheels pretty far out, but perched up on that bouncing metal seat, and hanging on to only the steering wheel, that was not a pleasant memory.

In the next year or two, I'll be ordering a new tractor, and I'm seriously considering a low profile style. And 4wd. But now I'm sort of retraining on a "make do" tractor that I bought from my Quaker Meeting when it broke and no one wanted to pay to fix it, since it really wasn't used any more. So I'm trying to work within the constraints of a tractor about a third the weight that I likely need, but if I think twice before the clutch comes out, all should be fine.

 

[dodge man]

Just looking at the photo of your tractor, it looks narrow and tippy, but its hard to tell. A subcompact in 4 wheel drive is as about as stable as you can get, unless you get into on of the speciality type tractors that is very wide and low.