Safety Tips For Beginners

/ Safety Tips For Beginners #1  

Dranrab

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
78
Location
Perkinston MS
Tractor
Mahindra 1626 HST
I just bought my first tractor. I have never operated a tractor before. I am a safety professional by trade and want to learn as much as I can about safety before I get started. I read the safety literature that came with the tractor. I'll read it again. Center of gravity is an obvious concern with any load handling equipment. Add uneven terrain and narrow width, and I can see how things could get dicey. I'll wear my seat belt, keep my ROPS up and keep loads low. In the commercial fishing world, rotating machinery and pinch points claim a lot of victims. I know to be ever aware of that.

I have read that people getting run over by their own machine is a source of death and injury with tractors. How is that happening?

Anytime I undertake a new activity, I take things very slowly. My owners manual tells me not to baby the engine during break-in though. I guess I can keep the revs up and the speed down by using low range on the HST huh?

To reduce risk, I like to identify the common causes of accidents and develop risk mitigation strategies for those causes. I haven't dug deep, but in my preliminary searching, I haven't found any good reads on common causes of accidents and risk reduction. Can any of you point to a good read?

What other tips would you give to a rank n00b?
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #2  
With modern machines it’s much harder to run yourself over. Most wont start unless you are in the seat.

My biggest tip is to run the controls from the seat only. It’s easy to be off the machine doing something and think. I’ll just lift, dump lower etc etc from the ground- that’s easy to do but opens you up to injury.

Typically machines only have rear brakes. If you have a heavy load that lifts the rear end off the ground you could have obvious issues. Add enough weight to the tires and or 3 pt to make the back end heavy. This also lowers your center of gravity.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #3  
The biggest safety tip I could give you is don't move the tractor (especially over rough ground) with the Front End Loader (FEL henceforth) up in the air. Especially with any load in the bucket. This is the number one reason for tip overs. You will see many first time tractor operators moving with the FEL up in the air. Don't do that. Another common "newb" mistake is descending hills with the tractor in 2 wheel drive. Especially without enough ballast on the rear 3 Point Hitch (henceforth 3pt). It is best to be in 4 wheel drive (4WD) when not on flat ground. What can happen is a sort of runaway condition where the back tires start to slide on either gravel on a hill or soft dirt or slippery grass. Once the rear tires lose their contact patch with the ground a runaway condition is started where the tractor increases rapidly in speed and only an "anchor" like the bucket up front or some kind of ground engaging implement on the back will slow you down. Pressing on the brakes will do absolutely nothing to slow you down as the brakes are on the rear axles only and those axles thru their wheels and then tires have no traction with the ground. When the tractor is in 4WD, a connection is made with the front tires thru the driveline, front differential and front axle's, wheels and then tires. So you have 4 tires on the ground with 4 contact patches instead of just 2. There is a solid mechanical connection thru the front propeller shaft. The runaway slide will never happen in the first place.

There are many other things you can learn about differential locking, differential "split" braking etc, but the two MOST important things to remember is ALWAYS keep your bucket low when travelling, no higher that the hood of the tractor at most, and when on steep slopes always keep the tractor in 4WD even if the surface would not seem to warrant that. Far better a little tire wear than a runaway condition. And let me tell you, runaway is a very real proposition, and it is not fun. It can be a very frightening and dangerous proposition. If you live in Kansas with no hills in sight, then these things become less important. But keep them in the back of your mind.

If you need to lift your FEL for instance to clear a truck or trailers sides to dump a load, lift it only as you are creeping up to the side NOT while you are traveling at speed up towards the truck or trailer. All it takes is one high rock on one tire or one groundhog hole for a tire to drop into and with a high loaded bucket over you go into your side.

So yes, "low and slow". Low range is a great place to be, especially when you start learning tractor and loader operations.

Also see the excellent points RNeumann brought up above...
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #4  
I just bought my first tractor. I have never operated a tractor before. I am a safety professional by trade and want to learn as much as I can about safety before I get started. I read the safety literature that came with the tractor. I'll read it again. Center of gravity is an obvious concern with any load handling equipment. Add uneven terrain and narrow width, and I can see how things could get dicey. I'll wear my seat belt, keep my ROPS up and keep loads low. In the commercial fishing world, rotating machinery and pinch points claim a lot of victims. I know to be ever aware of that.

I have read that people getting run over by their own machine is a source of death and injury with tractors. How is that happening?

Anytime I undertake a new activity, I take things very slowly. My owners manual tells me not to baby the engine during break-in though. I guess I can keep the revs up and the speed down by using low range on the HST huh?

To reduce risk, I like to identify the common causes of accidents and develop risk mitigation strategies for those causes. I haven't dug deep, but in my preliminary searching, I haven't found any good reads on common causes of accidents and risk reduction. Can any of you point to a good read?

What other tips would you give to a rank n00b?

They operate the controls from the ground, standing next to the tractor.
They fall off the tractor while it's moving.


If you keep the engine PRMs up, the controls are more responsive and the HST will provide better braking effect when you let off the pedal. Actually using the brake pedal on an HST is very often a rarity, as the transmission will stop the machine if you let off the pedal. About the only time I've ever used the brake pedals on HST machines is close in positioning to objects, or holding position on a slope, and a little bit of turning brakes in tight turns.

As far as tips... spend some time just tooling around on the machine, getting a feel for it. Practice makes perfect. Don't ever be in a rush. And if you feel yourself getting tired after hours of work, STOP! ;)

I'd suggest getting a tilt meter. If you feel yourself getting uncomfortable on a slope, side angle, etc.... stop and look at that tilt meter. See how many degrees it's at. Uncomfortable feeling is your brain telling you something's getting squirrelly. Make note of what angles you get uncomfortable at for future reference.

Get a spinner knob for the steering wheel if you don't have one. It frees up a hand to hold onto for balance.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #5  
And don't use the HST pedal like an automotive accelerator pedal.

Bruce
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #6  
yeah i got hit by a car (8/13) riding my motorcycle. 11 plates, 31 screws, THR, rod in tibia 4 skin grafts just to name a few. 2 years PT to learn how to walk again. im disabled now.

family and friends helped out with chores around the house, but after a 2yr hiatus i was ready to get back on my old tractor and "do it myself!"
at one appointment i asked my ortho doc (trama dr.) if it was ok to bush hog my pasture, guess what his reply was? "are you crazy!" said he sees just as many accidents and deaths caused by tractors/heavy equipment vs motorcycles. i gave up riding... but my tractor is my legs, arms and strength. you know the ole saying, "it'll never happen to me!"

can't have enough safety post, TRACTORS KILL!
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #7  
Do not ghost ride the tractor.
Post 4 of this thread:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/417118-back-blade-wont-dig.html

Do not lift anything up with the FEL and get under it. We had a member that used a chain and FEL to lift up his lawn mower to remove the blades and was killed.
In this instance so many things can fail:
1. The hydraulics of the tractor.
2. a weak link in the chain,
3. The chain can slip where it is attached to the mower
4. the chain can slip where it is attached to the FEL

Alway double or triple your chances of survival with jack stands and/or blocks when working under equipment.

Never be in a hurry when doing anything with a tractor, from operating it to changing out attachments, if you find yourself being rushed stop and come back later.

On uneven ground have your ROPS up and seatbelt on take it slow and be ready with your hand on the joy stick to quickly lower you FEL to the ground.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #8  
When pulling heavy objects be sure they are attached BELOW the rear axle. If attached above the axle and the object won't move the tractor can flip backward onto the operator.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Great responses everyone. I read every post several times.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #11  
Explain that to me please Bruce.
If you're going up a steep hill, often if you have the hydrostatic pedal mashed to the floor, it is putting enough pressure out to bypass the pressure relief, so if you back off the pedal a little bit it is easier on the engine and the transmission. with time you will be able to hear the difference in me sound that the engine and transmission make.

Aaron Z
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #12  
Remember that tractor brakes/engine are only connected to the rear wheels unless you are in 4wd.

If you go forward down a slope, with something in your bucket, it can cause the rear wheels to lose traction and away you go without brakes OR engine breaking, unless you are in 4wd.

Burn this fact into your memory banks! :)
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #13  
Remember that tractor brakes/engine are only connected to the rear wheels unless you are in 4wd.

If you go forward down a slope, with something in your bucket, it can cause the rear wheels to lose traction and away you go without brakes OR engine breaking, unless you are in 4wd.

Burn this fact into your memory banks! :)
Keep bucket very low. If you feel the back get light, drop the bucket.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #15  
Second thought:

If you pull something, use the draw bar. If you pull from a point above the center of the rear axle, you can cause the tractor to flip over backwards. Not a good thing.

Also, wear your seatbelt as much as you can stand, assuming you have a ROPS.

Edit: I see roadworthy already pointed out the draw bar consideration...:thumbsup:
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #16  
Explain that to me please Bruce.

On your car, when you need more power, you push down a bit on the pedal.

On your tractor, when you need more power, you let up a bit on the pedal.

The HST pedal manages the transmission, not the fuel delivery. Down is "high gear" and up is "low gear."

Bruce
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners
  • Thread Starter
#17  
On your car, when you need more power, you push down a bit on the pedal.

On your tractor, when you need more power, you let up a bit on the pedal.

The HST pedal manages the transmission, not the fuel delivery. Down is "high gear" and up is "low gear."

Bruce

I am going to have to get a feel for that. The dealer didn't say anything about it and neither does the owners manual.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #18  
Lets go over some basics of engine, Ordinary hydrostat (there are hydro's that are NOT ordinary) range shifter, and final drive gears.
Think of the engine as more like a stationary engine that runs at what ever rpm you set it at and a governor assembly that tries to keep it at that rpm as the load increases. This is unlike an automotive engine that you are constantly changing the rpm and torque output.

The ordinary HST is a variable displacement pump, that is fastened directly to the engine output shaft of the engine, sometimes with a dry clutch in some models, and No clutch in many models. Attached to the variable displacement pump via oil passages or in a few machines by oil hoses is a fixed displacement hydraulic motor. Yes there is a few with variable displacement, but they are NOT the ordinary HST's I am talking about here.

The variable displacement hydraulic pump is controlled either directly by the "go pedals/pedal" or thru a hydraulic servo in some models. But many in this size class have just direct connection to the inside of the pumps "swashplate" The swash plate is on a pivot that the pedal controls the angle of the pivot action of the swashplate. (those of you with helicopter experience are now saying "swashplate", I know what that is!". riding on that swash plate are usually 9 "slippers" that are fastened to pistons. The angle of the swash plate determines the flow rate of the fluid out of the motor thru the passages and on to the hydraulic motor. As the pistons and slippers rotate around the "suck" fluid from the return and push it out the forward ports as they come around to them. Unless the swash plate angle is zero. Then no fluid flows or if the swash plate move the other direction the fluid moves the other direction to the ports and the tractor goes in reverse. So Zero angle = neutral, no movement, forward angle = flow to forward ports and hydraulic motor moves forward and backward angle the flow goes the other way and tractor goes the other direction. The tractors (like mine) with with hydraulic assist do the same thing only it give you some hydraulic assist to move the swash plate so you foot doesn't have to do all the work of applying pressure to it all the time. and of course "cruise control" figures in here also if your tractor has that feature. Some do some don't.

So let's go over what we have so far. Engine, is the prime mover, usually run at a fixed RPM, and maybe a clutch or NOT, and a variable displacement pump under control of the operator by the pedal system controlling the swash plate angle, followed by a powerful hydraulic motor able to go either direction depending on the ports the oil flows into from the pump. There is NO mechanical connection between the engine and the pump. Just a hydraulic one. Now. on to the Range transmission.

The range transmission is either a two or 3 gear ranges ordinary old non synchronized transmission. Nothing fancy here. Just 1890's technology here. The power comes out of the range transmission on to the final reduction drives and power is tapped off here for the front differential propeller shaft for 4WD with a shifter of course to engage this, either direct mechanical or electric over hydraulic shifter.

So here is what happens when you "attack" a hill in let's say HI range on your range shifter and your tractor has a big load in its loader bucket. The power needed to get up the hill is great, the puny engines RPM is starting to fall because of this load. Your first impulse of what you have done all of your life is "stomp on that accelerator pedal to make more power . Only it just makes things worse. your tractor bogs down even more. Here is why. When you increase the angle of the swash plate, you are making MORE oil flow from the pump headed to the motor, which puts even MORE load on the prime mover, the engine. You are calling for more speed, but speed is not what you need, you need more torque. If you cannot get any more torque from the engine by the fixed throttle and the governor has already tried to maintain the RPM level and can do no more then the RPM's are going to fall, the engine is going to fall out of its "torque curve" sweet spot, and you are not going to go up that hill any faster, or maybe not at all. What could happen is that the pressure builds in the pump to the point even that the pumps relief valve opens or starts to. We are talking about pressures around 5000 lbs per square inch here or more.

BUT if we let off of the swash plate, we reduce the flow rate and we slow down, we lower the pressure but we also give the engine a little breather and remove some of its load and possibly let the RPM's stabilize or even go up a bit and get closer to the torque/RPM curve that the engine wants to operate in. NOW to be honest, you should not have been a darn fool and attacked that hill in HI range anyway with it taller gearing. You should have looked at that hill at the bottom and said "I am heavily loaded, and I better downshift the range selector to M or even LO if it is really really steep.". But you got to make that determination "before" you attack. You cannot "shift on the fly, and to swap those gears on a hill is a dangerous proposition. You better be riding those brakes, and you better be in 4WD as you come to a stop, you will have to mesh that old coffee grinder transmission gears while trying to keep the tractor from rolling backwards downhill. Use caution.

Yes, for those of you with some advanced hydrostats, are chomping at the bit about your 2 speed variable displacement hydraulic motors. Keep chomping because this "book" is about ordinary hydro's, :) Not advanced hydro's with really cool features. You have to pay actual good money for those "bells and whistles" that many think they don't need.

So you have to have some "smarts" before you are in trouble climbing that hill. But stomping the forward pedal is NOT the answer. Notice I said you had a puny engine. Yes it is very puny. Mine has around 35 horsepower and my tractor fully ballasted with loader attached is over 6000 lbs. without a load in the bucket. So think about that a bit. How many cars weight 6000 lbs. Not too many nowadays. How many cars have 35 hp or so engines? Not too many. Tractors are all about gear reduction to increase torque, and they don't need to go real fast, they have lots of torque to pull, and low speeds, but there is a limit if you gear it too high. Think ahead. We tend to "load up" out tractors with liquid filled tires or wheel weights, and lots of rear ballast not to mention the payload we put in the bucket or grapple, but the engines just aren't that big for the most part.

I hope this "book" has helped a little bit, if not, well, I was just watching TV over the laptop anyway. :)
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #19  
I am going to have to get a feel for that. The dealer didn't say anything about it and neither does the owners manual.

read my "book", hope it helps.
 
/ Safety Tips For Beginners #20  
Just a word about "advanced gen 2 hydros" like Kubota HST+. HST+ among several other really really cool features has a 2 speed variable displacement hydraulic Motor NOT a fixed displacement motor. This variable is controlled electrically to take the hydraulic oil and vary the displacement of the motor and in effect lower the speed and increase the torque or raise the speed and decrease the torque. This is "shift on the fly" under the operators's control. So he can stay in a single range and move fast when he needs to, but if faced with that "big hill" he can flick a switch giving him more torque on the fly without shifting that old coffee grinder range shifter, and just as quick shift back to higher speed lower torque. This in essence gives the tractor 6 ranges instead of just 3. Two torque ranges inside of each mechanical gear range. It can even do it automatically. Among several other things.
 

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