Rotary Cutter Scalping problem 72 bush hog, can i add front wheels?

[runwme]

My tractor has front weights, and is soo heavy i dont think lifting is a problem. I have 20 psi in rear tires and 40 in front just to see if bouncing in tires was the problem.

The core to my issue is i mow too fast on bumpy terrain. I was doing front wheels to try cover my "operator error (too fast in turns )

I have the wheels mounted. I hope the gauge isnt too little. The welder who didnt know soo much, said it looked fine to him and suggested valve springs for suspension. Here are some pictures of installation. Took about 1.5 hrs to get alignments, heights and welds done at cost of 40.00 welding time. ( total project about 200.00

It may turn out to be junk, but figured i would try. It actually looks really good and feels sturdy. I will be testing it when it cools off around 6 this evening and post results. I can tow it in the wheels and a test patch looked promising ( just a couple strips and few turns)

 

[IslandTractor]

Flywheel and Spyderlk,

I don't think my front wheels are lifting as I tend to mow with my grapple in place so the front end is fairly well weighted. The grapple plus QA adapter weighs about as much as the SQ480. The plowing phenomenon also continues after the turn frequently...once it digs in the lower lip of the cutter keeps it down.

Spyderlk, you make me wonder if I am wrong about the inside vs. outside edge. I'd have to say I am not certain as I was just going from memory but it is consistently one or the other, not random. I'll try to check this weekend.

I know from previous searches that this is not a common problem. I'm intrigued though that someone else is having a similar issue. I was kinda surprised to see runwme's initial post as it described my problem and my own home spun solution (front wheels) perfectly. I'd posted on this before and been advised to try additional check chains which I did and found useless but again that might be due to the relatively narrow cutter and my inability to get chains installed as far outboard as possible (would have required drilling the deck or welding to do).

 

[greg_g]

I don't try to cut at the very lowest level but rather between 3-4 inches or the equivalent of a high finish cut. That's the range I have trouble in. If I go higher than 5" there is no problem. The desired setting results in the side skids of the mower being about 1.5-2 inches off the ground and the position control set at mid range.

Um, I don't own a Bush Hog brand rotary cutter. But the three non-Bush Hog rotary cutters I've owned have a blade cut height that's roughly parallel to the side beams. Your description is such that I'm wondering why there's such a 'gap' between the bottom of the cutting edge and the bottom of the side beam. Are you perhaps missing a spacer on the cutter's vertical shaft?

And as Flywheel touched upon, are you in fact using a floating toplink bracket? If there's no provision for the front of the rotary cutter to follow contours, it's gonna dig in on turns when the tractor front wheels are higher than the rears.

This is a little confusing trying to resolve a similar problem presented by two different owners. I wouldn't be surprised in the end, to read that each was caused by a different problem.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

I have the wheels mounted. I hope the gauge isnt too little. The welder who didnt know soo much, said it looked fine to him and suggested valve springs for suspension.

I had no idea that you were going to mount them so far inboard. I wish you luck. The downward force on turns is going to be even higher than if they were mounted outboard. All that outboard weight is going to impose big time leverage on whichever caster is inside on a sharp turn. Sorta like trying to turn a tricycle type tractor while paralleling a hillside at speed.

Watch close for a while. If/when one of them folds under and breaks loose during a turn - it's gonna make a helluva racket under the mower deck.

//greg//

 

[runwme]

it's gonna make a helluva racket under the mower deck.

//greg//

HAHAHA No doubt!! I took your words to consideration when i mounted them higher so i would have room for bigger sturdier fork and wheel if i need. (which i am hoping i don't.... but time will tell.

OK... progress report.. I tried different springs for suspension. My thinking is that if its suspended by heavy spring then there would be less shock to the system. I had some BBC Roller cam valvle spring that worked perfectly. The deck floats on the springs with approx 1/2 of suspension travel. I at 230lbs can bounce on it and bottom out the corner, my wife at 105lbs can not.

Driving around the yard mowing the wheels swivel very well and track the back end of tractor. I am thinking as long as they swivel freely, then chance of one getting sideways and folding under is reduced. I can drop deck to bottom and rest on wheels and spin tractor and the corners are not digging in now! YEAH!! I was very please with the consistancy of grass height and how it pulls , turns and cuts.

This may not have been the best solution to my problem, but for right now its working very well. I will keep it greased up so swivels easily because if it were to fold a wheel, i think it would be because it got caught sideways. I put just a touch of caster in it to help it track back straight.

Right now.. I have 2 thumbs way up for it, but ofcourse needs to see how it holds up over time.

Greg, thank you for your tips on setting it the hitch and swaying, hopefully by adjusting everything as best i can, it will hold up.

see enclosed photos for suspension and height... I have the deck level right now cutting very close about 2-2.5 inches height now. You can see the sides of my mower that have been pushed in over years of it digging into turf.

 

[runwme]

Just finished all 12 acres and around my house without a divot to be had. With the sharp blades its mowing very well.

I couldn't be happier with the result. I let the hydraulic lift all the way down and mowed everything just riding on the wheels. With no hydraulic lift, it rides easily on the suspension.
When I was done, I lifted it up and checked everything and it feels very solid. I don't think there will be any problems, but time will tell.

I have from set it pretty level and is mowing the grass at 2.5 inches and can be adjusted with shims. As long as it holds up, it will be an advantage over finish mower in cost savings ( not having to buy finish mower, or switch back and forth attachments) and speed that i can cut grass. With 70 hp and direct drive, i crank up rpms and was mowing pasture in 5th gear ( 6th is just for driving on roads) Without having to worry about divots, ride height and scalping, I mowed the 12 acres in record time for me !! My gut says it will hold up, the suspension looked like it was doing a good job smoothing out the bumps, however, if it were to fold a wheel, i really feel like I am in right direction and will just install heavier forks and larger front wheels.

I will post again after using it a few months and let anyone considering doing the same thing my results over extended usage.

 

[IslandTractor]

And as Flywheel touched upon, are you in fact using a floating toplink bracket? If there's no provision for the front of the rotary cutter to follow contours, it's gonna dig in on turns when the tractor front wheels are higher than the rears.

This is a little confusing trying to resolve a similar problem presented by two different owners. I wouldn't be surprised in the end, to read that each was caused by a different problem.

//greg//

The Bush Hog has a pivoting top link connector so that is not the issue. I have the toplink set in the neutral position so there is plenty of room both directions. Don't think that is the issue for me.

I appreciate that I have hijacked or piggybacked on runwme's thread. Sorry. However, his is the first thread that seemed to have the same issue I do and it seemed silly to start a separate one.

I'll have to check regarding your other point about the height of the blade compared with the side rails. I am pretty sure my blade is not as low as the bottom of the side rails but I will double check. When I am clearing brush and have the position control set to zero while I back up, I don't cut dirt but the stubble that's left is certainly less than an inch or so.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just finished all 12 acres and around my house without a divot to be had. .

Congratulations. Hope your invention (?adaptation) continues to work.

 

[runwme]

Thanks The thread is yours! I hope you get yours resolved as well. If you can't get the divots to stop through adjustment, since you have some or all of the parts, let me know if you want detailed photos or measurements of my "engineering" hehe

 

[IslandTractor]

let me know if you want detailed photos or measurements of my "engineering" hehe

Yes, I think it would certainly be useful for posterity to have details of your fix. Even if it is the Mark I version it will help others work through the problem. More photos would be nice showing the attachment points and materials used. THanks