Hi everyone my name is John I am a senior in high school and I am using my dads account to ask you guys a few questions. I am planning in doing a performances based class which is where I just get to study whatever I want and do a project for my final grade. Well I love chainsaws and all outdoor power equipment and I am planning on researching all about small 2-cycle engines and learning as much about them and how to fix them as I can. My plan was to go online to either Craigslist or eBay and find a stihl professional saw that is not working or not built and buy it cheap an repair it to working condition for my final project. However since I also plan on using this saw I want a good one so can anyone recomend a goo all around stihl pro model saw?
School project saw
- Thread starter Grant1994
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Super Member
A good all around saw is an 036. Parts availability is important for you so whatever old Sthil you choose, be cognizant of that. Sthils that are larger are the 038 magnum the 044 and 046. The last two are a bit lighter than the magnum which is a very powerful saw. The last group is a heavy saw for all day use. You can't go wrong with the 036 unless you are always cutting big timber and you want an over 30" bar.
I definatley don't need to be running anything bigger than a 24" it at most will an 036 be able to pul that? And yes I have a few small engine shops and multiple stihl dealers around me as well as the Internet so I shouldn't have a problem getting the parts as long as they are available.
RobertN
Super Member
Check the local saw shop. I got a basket case 024 Stihl for $50. Needs seals and rings.
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The 036 is better suited for 16- 18" bar. Depends on why you need a 24" bar. If its for reach, the 36 will handle it. If its for burying full length in hardwoods, you'd be better off with the 040 models as you may not get full oiling with the 036 on such a long bar. The 038 Magnum will pull a 24" bar all day long but an 044 weighs about the same as the 038 but gives more power.. Some Sthils are harder to get parts for than others. The 036,38, and 44 models were all pretty popular so parts should be no problem. I used to cut wood for a living. Very rarely did I venture into the woods with anything more than a 20" bar which would be the most bar I'd put on an 036. If I knew I was cutting a series of 30" or more timber or stumps, then I'd grab one of my larger saws. A good all around saw is the 036 with an 18" bar. If you need to always use a 24" bar or simply want a saw to run a 24" bar, jump to the other saws mentioned
LD1
Epic Contributor
Another vote for the 036, 044, and 046 IF it must be a stihl.
Which makes me want to ask, what about dolmar, husqvarna, etc.
Those saws are just as good in the "pro" category, but typically priced less in non-running condition.
At least around here, people thing stihl is spelld "gold" and they want an arm and a leg for a non-running saw. And no matter the brand, figure at least another $150 for a top-end kit (cylinder, piston, and rings). And then the time to do it right. So paying $200+ for that non-running stihl might not be such a great deal.
Another option for you is to call around to home depot that has a rental center. They carry the makita 6401, which is a dolmar 6400. They ocassionally sell off the rental saws for $200-$250 range.
And then you can get an aftermarket NWP big-bor kit from baileys for $130 or so and turn that 64cc saw into an 84cc beast:thumbsup:
Which makes me want to ask, what about dolmar, husqvarna, etc.
Those saws are just as good in the "pro" category, but typically priced less in non-running condition.
At least around here, people thing stihl is spelld "gold" and they want an arm and a leg for a non-running saw. And no matter the brand, figure at least another $150 for a top-end kit (cylinder, piston, and rings). And then the time to do it right. So paying $200+ for that non-running stihl might not be such a great deal.
Another option for you is to call around to home depot that has a rental center. They carry the makita 6401, which is a dolmar 6400. They ocassionally sell off the rental saws for $200-$250 range.
And then you can get an aftermarket NWP big-bor kit from baileys for $130 or so and turn that 64cc saw into an 84cc beast:thumbsup:
I'm not opposed to husky or dolmar at all I was just leaning twoards sthil because we have had pretty good luck with them. What model huskys and dolmars would be comparable to those stihl models. Also I have found one husky 55 rancher with the metal case that this guy is selling on craigslist and he can't figure why it won't run but from what he's told me it just sounds like a gummed up carb, would that be a comparable saw?
LD1
Epic Contributor
The older 55 ranchers are okay. But the newer 455 ranchers are just a box-store/homeowner version.
With dolmar, pretty much anything 6400/7300/7900 ore even the 5105. But those are newer models. Older, (and they are harder to find) I like the 116si and 120si. But even the 112, 115, 117, etc are all good. And even some of the bigger ones like 133, 143.
As far as husky goes, pretty much anything that isnt sold at lowes or TSC. Which is pretty much anything with an XP, and the older SE saws, as well as the 365.
Short story is, there are far too many good ones and far to many not-so-good ones to list them all. So best advice is IF you see one you think you want, research it first, check parts avalibility, and ask us here and we can tell you if it is a keeper.:thumbsup:
With dolmar, pretty much anything 6400/7300/7900 ore even the 5105. But those are newer models. Older, (and they are harder to find) I like the 116si and 120si. But even the 112, 115, 117, etc are all good. And even some of the bigger ones like 133, 143.
As far as husky goes, pretty much anything that isnt sold at lowes or TSC. Which is pretty much anything with an XP, and the older SE saws, as well as the 365.
Short story is, there are far too many good ones and far to many not-so-good ones to list them all. So best advice is IF you see one you think you want, research it first, check parts avalibility, and ask us here and we can tell you if it is a keeper.:thumbsup:
Husky 55 could be open port or closed port 45mm or 46mm bore. Good saws and cheap to work on. Just going to list some others I would go for to learn on, husky 50 51 242 246 346 357 257 262 362 365 372 371 268 266 272 just to name a few
Stihl 024 026 036 034 034 super 361 044 046
Dolmar I dont know older ones and only older ones I had was 3 166. 6400 7300 7900 5100 5105
Poulan 330 335 305 3000 3450 3750 365 3300 4200 5200 4900 415 425 475 505 to name a few
Partner 500 5000 5000+ 550 7000 P100
Stihl 024 026 036 034 034 super 361 044 046
Dolmar I dont know older ones and only older ones I had was 3 166. 6400 7300 7900 5100 5105
Poulan 330 335 305 3000 3450 3750 365 3300 4200 5200 4900 415 425 475 505 to name a few
Partner 500 5000 5000+ 550 7000 P100
I'm glad to know I have so many options! I guess my next step will be to shop around do some research and I'll run my options by you guys before buying! Another question I have is can anyone out there give me a list of the tools I wil absolutley need to work on a chainsaw. I'm sure I have most of them but I bet there are a few I don't even know exist?
I have a Poulan 365 60cc tore down to put crank bearings and crank seals in. It might be a little over your head installing bearings and cranks though.
Maybe just staying with a top end rebuild and carb stuff to learn on first.
Someday to go back to this with 20"
Here is a Poulan 415 I didnt have to go as deep with. You could start with something like this. Runs a 24" with ease in hardwoods.
415 video after rebuild Poulan Pro 415 after carb soaking - YouTube
Maybe just staying with a top end rebuild and carb stuff to learn on first.
Someday to go back to this with 20"
Here is a Poulan 415 I didnt have to go as deep with. You could start with something like this. Runs a 24" with ease in hardwoods.
415 video after rebuild Poulan Pro 415 after carb soaking - YouTube
RobertN
Super Member
In '81, my Grandmother got my Dad a Stihl 024 for Christmas. She asked loggers in the Trinity/Weaverville area of N. calif what brand would be good. At that thiem, in that logging area, it was a mix of Stihl and Poulan. Seems to me back then Poulans's were green, and were much better than what is sold now.
Your probably thinking older then I go back on poulans. 4200 4900 5200 5900 8500, then 3400 3700 4000. I have a 4000 runner and 3400 parts saw.
I dont know when they started that yellow poulan pro stuff. But most saws then could be bought in yellow like 305 335 and lime green same saw 3000 3300.
The new stuff is all plastic clamshell crankcases and lot easier to work on then those expensive other plastic saws.
I actually compared my like new 025 45cc I had and sold asap to a rebuilt PP 260 42cc I did and the build of the poulan was better imo and better av with coil springs. Only draw back was the PP took 3/8lp and the 025 .325. But for a homeowner the 260 was half the price of the 025 new and a better saw in my eyes.
Hi guys, I have begun my search for the right saw but in the mean time can you guys help me figure out wht tools I will need to start working on saws. I don't mind spending money to get a lot of tools since I know I will use them for a while.
Thanks John
Thanks John
LD1
Epic Contributor
Compression tester
Torx set. (especially T-27)
Tachometer
Set of allens (metric)
Scrench
Granberg Sharpening jig
Air compressor and blow gun.
Screwdrivers
Little flat head screwdriver for tuning carb
I believe that is about all I ever use to work on saws.
Torx set. (especially T-27)
Tachometer
Set of allens (metric)
Scrench
Granberg Sharpening jig
Air compressor and blow gun.
Screwdrivers
Little flat head screwdriver for tuning carb
I believe that is about all I ever use to work on saws.
It's best to learn the 4 stroking sound of tuning a saw by ear and then the clearing up sound in the cut. But if you cant and have a spare $80 or so to burn here is a thread on Tachs. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/chainsaw-tachometer-choices/
