Second rear remote installation instructions

[nickel plate]

I want to buy a second rear remote valve kit for my 2002 TC40S (as in STANDARD) but before I do, I would like to see the instruction sheets because I think I can handle the job in my shop at home. I've already once pulled a loaded rear tire using my chain hoist so I have that part covered if the tire does need to be removed for the kit's installation.
Can someone please post the instruction sheets that I hope are in the kit? So far I have requested same from NH and have received nothing-not even a confirmation of my sent e-mail.

 

[jinman]

Don't expect to hear anything from New Holland. I'm quite sure they think including written instructions with the kit is sufficient. So if you hear anything from them, it will be to tell you the instructions are included with the kit.

Here are my instructions from when I installed my kit. The instructions don't say anything about using sealant on the piping connector threads, but you should use teflon tape (carefully and correctly) or a liquid teflon thread sealing compound. The tape or sealant not only gives you a better seal, but it allows you to tighten the fittings without galling the threads. If you don't want any seeps, you'll need one of these sealant types.

Note that this instruction sheet includes directions for both the economy and deluxe tractors.

I know you are on dial-up, so I reduced the images as much as possible to still be readable but at a size that won't take you all day to download.

 

[nickel plate]

Don't expect to hear anything from New Holland. I'm quite sure they think including written instructions with the kit is sufficient. So if you hear anything from them, it will be to tell you the instructions are included with the kit.

Here are my instructions from when I installed my kit. The instructions don't say anything about using sealant on the piping connector threads, but you should use teflon tape (carefully and correctly) or a liquid teflon thread sealing compound. The tape or sealant not only gives you a better seal, but it allows you to tighten the fittings without galling the threads. If you don't want any seeps, you'll need one of these sealant types.

Note that this instruction sheet includes directions for both the economy and deluxe tractors.

I know you are on dial-up, so I reduced the images as much as possible to still be readable but at a size that won't take you all day to download.

Jim, I think I can handle this job. You're quite right as I just did receive a "customer service" e-mail from New Holland that told me to contact my dealer for a copy of the instructions.........I guess my humble request to the big guys was just too petty for them to fool with.
Thanks again, Jim

 

[jinman]

Here's a picture of me putting on my 2nd and 3rd remote (see the pretty blue covers). I just rolled the wheel forward and leaned it against the side of my garage. Dealing with the wheel was the easy part. The toughest part of the whole job was making sure the fittings were tight. Even so, I have some tiny seeps and my fittings all grow dust beards when working, but that dust rinses off easily with a blast of water from the garden hose.:thumbsup:

 

[nickel plate]

Jim, you make it look and sound so easy!
Did you move the right side adjustable lift arm over to the left side (as another poster in TBN suggested) or just did away with it altogether?

 

[jinman]

Yes, I moved the adjustable arm to the left. You really need to do this because it gives you much more flexibility, and after all, why would you leave it sitting on a shelf and use the unadjustable one, given the choice?

...and the kit IS easy. It takes a bit of planning, but everything fits as it is designed to do. You don't have to do any "seat of your pants" design. It's all there for you and when you are finished you are finished. It's a good thing.

 

[AndyG]

I put 2 remotes on my TC40D and it was a pretty simple deal. It may be possible to do it without removing the wheel but very difficult. I will respectfully disagree with Jinman about the teflon tape. This type of fitting does not require thread sealer of any type. Tape can be a real pain inside of hydraulic systems because little bits of it can get caught in valves with close tolerances. DO use lubrication on the threads when you assemble them though. Lubricated threads will tighten more evenly and more securely.

 

[jinman]

DO use lubrication on the threads when you assemble them though. Lubricated threads will tighten more evenly and more securely.

Well, we sure both agree on that.:thumbsup: Also, start the tractor and pressure test the lines for leaks before putting the wheel back on.

 

[nickel plate]

Here's a picture of me putting on my 2nd and 3rd remote (see the pretty blue covers). I just rolled the wheel forward and leaned it against the side of my garage. Dealing with the wheel was the easy part. The toughest part of the whole job was making sure the fittings were tight. Even so, I have some tiny seeps and my fittings all grow dust beards when working, but that dust rinses off easily with a blast of water from the garden hose.:thumbsup:

Jim, was the rear tire that you "just rolled" over to the side of the garage loaded or not? As you have seen in another topic that I wrote, I do suspect that my rears are loaded with plain water and I want to change that out to something more anti-rust conducive. What better time than the second remote installation?

 

[nickel plate]

I put 2 remotes on my TC40D and it was a pretty simple deal. It may be possible to do it without removing the wheel but very difficult. I will respectfully disagree with Jinman about the teflon tape. This type of fitting does not require thread sealer of any type. Tape can be a real pain inside of hydraulic systems because little bits of it can get caught in valves with close tolerances. DO use lubrication on the threads when you assemble them though. Lubricated threads will tighten more evenly and more securely.

Andy, ILO teflon tape, what lubrication product did you use?

 

[jinman]

Jim, was the rear tire that you "just rolled" over to the side of the garage loaded or not?

Not loaded and very easy to manipulate when upright. I can't speak to experience with loaded rears.

 

[AndyG]

When I look at the diagram that Jim posted I only see flare type connections. I would just used the oil of your choice. Maybe a little of the hyd oil that you will use in the tractor. Teflon tape and sealing compound (aka pipe dope) are intended for use with tapered pipe threads. I use these a lot when fitting pipe on my steam engines. I like the pipe dope much better because it is easier to use and there are no little bits of tape to break off and clog a tiny passage somewhere in the system.

 

[RickB]

When I look at the diagram that Jim posted I only see flare type connections. I would just used the oil of your choice. Maybe a little of the hyd oil that you will use in the tractor. Teflon tape and sealing compound (aka pipe dope) are intended for use with tapered pipe threads. I use these a lot when fitting pipe on my steam engines. I like the pipe dope much better because it is easier to use and there are no little bits of tape to break off and clog a tiny passage somewhere in the system.

The female couplers connect to the hydraulic tubes via tapered pipe threads. Teflon tape or other suitable lubricant/sealant is required here for a leak-free connection.

 

[nickel plate]

When I look at the diagram that Jim posted I only see flare type connections. I would just used the oil of your choice. Maybe a little of the hyd oil that you will use in the tractor. Teflon tape and sealing compound (aka pipe dope) are intended for use with tapered pipe threads. I use these a lot when fitting pipe on my steam engines. I like the pipe dope much better because it is easier to use and there are no little bits of tape to break off and clog a tiny passage somewhere in the system.

Andy, let me say that I am by no means even a novice regarding hydraulic plumbing but when you post to coat the threads with hydraulic oil, isn't that setting up a leak path for the onboard hydraulic fluid?

 

[AndyG]

Andy, let me say that I am by no means even a novice regarding hydraulic plumbing but when you post to coat the threads with hydraulic oil, isn't that setting up a leak path for the onboard hydraulic fluid?

No, I do not think so. If the connection is tight it will not leak. Some of the oil that you lubed the threads with will weep out of the joint though.

RickB, You are correct about the tapered threads. I missed them when I looked at the diagram.

 

[klm]

A little off the subject but if you are looking for a place to invest your money consider buying some second rear remote valve kits, looks better than gold to me.

 

[nickel plate]

A little off the subject but if you are looking for a place to invest your money consider buying some second rear remote valve kits, looks better than gold to me.

Good point, klm, right around five and a quarter just for the kit made for the TC40.
Oh! Yesterday I installed the new hydraulic top link (already had the first set of remotes) and am very impressed with the movement that it gave to the box scraper, all of which is done from the seat.
As far as thread compounds used during the assembly, I took the provider's recommendation and used what was currently in my grease gun and so far no signs of leaks or weeps.
Tilt is still a little ways down the road.