Seeding grass...need input

[SCOOBY14B]

Trying to get some ideas of best pieces of equipment to use for seeding grass. For new grass thinking of using box blade with teeth (or similar) to tear up ground if needed, pulverizor (or similar) to prep ground/soften, then use 3 pt seeded to spread seed.

MY QUESTION: What would be the BEST thing to use to rake over seed after spreading? I was thinking of using a section of chain link fence, but don't know if that's be best. I don't wanna use anything that is gonna drag too much seed away from where I put it. What are some of you guys using? The seed would be Fescue or Bermuda.

I am not currently using anything as I am contemplating getting into the business (still). I am a FT firefighter and wanting something to do on my 2 days off. I am looking at getting a Kubota 3130 4wd HST with loader, 5' bushhog, 5 box blade and pulverizor. I am wanting to do construction/lot cleanup, redo old yards, new construction lawns/landscaping (seed and sod), bush-hogging, etc. I live in a rural area of NE Georgia.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Grass needs soil contact to germinate and root. It doesn't particularly need (or like) to be buried, even just a little. It's better to drop grass seed ON the (well prepared) surface, then roll the soil to firm it. That will press the seed into the soil for good contact.

The best seeder I've ran on to (rented one a few years back) is made by Brillion. Several madels to suit individual needs.

But in a pinch, a 3-point "spinner" spredder will do the job.

 

[RonR]

I think box blade rippers would be too far apart and not give you the desired result. A pulverizer would fit the bill.

Pic is what son & I built to scratch the seed in. We usually rototil first, but like yesterday, I needed to overseed some areas, so just spread some seed & pulled this through. Often, I'll run the tractor over the area after seeding to insure good ground contact.

Other times, I've harrowed, seeded, then used a leaf rake to scratch over it.

ron

 

[k9kent]

We first clear the lot of all large objects and trash left over by the subs.

Check the attachments page on the bobcat site for landscape rake. These units are sold and rented for 3 point also.

After the finish grade, I spread the seed and starter fertilizer bi-directionally being careful to get good coverage over the area to be seeded. I run the landscape rake over the entire area. The teeth of the rake scoops up rocks, preps the seedbed and mixes the seed into the soil. Play with depth setting until you get the one that works for your soil conditions. Don't get to deep. The rake also smoothes out small ruts or imperfections left by the dozer. We hand rake around the telephone, cable and electric boxes or any areas where the rake can't get into. Don't skip this step. Use a roller and run it over the entire lot firming up the seed bed. Water or wait for rain. If the ground temp is right you will have a lawn.

For lawn renovations, spread the seed, run the rake or dethatcher and firm with lawn roller.

 

[RobT]

RonR and Farmwithjunk--Good ideas.

If I may piggyback on this discussion, I have a question. I have part of an alfalfa field that I want to convert to a baseball diamond. The ground is pretty hard (Indiana clay, too).

Do you think only a disc would take care of preparing this plot for the baseball diamond? Or do I need to invest in a box scraper, plow, etc? The only implement I have now is a brush hog, so I would need to invest in the right implements to get the job done. I have a 40HP compact tractor.

Thank you.
Rob T.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I agree with FWJ that you shouldn't use anything other than a roller after the seed is spread. Running a rake or harrow after the seed is spread will bury the seed too deep. Most every grass seed needs light, as well as heat and water to germinate. Get your grade completely finished first. Roll, scratch (with rake or pulverizer), seed, roll and then water, water, water. The ground should be always moist but never muddy. Frequent light watering is better than infrequent heavy watering while your lawn is in germination and infancy. After the grass is established long deep watering is better.

 

[k9kent]

Alfalfa forms a crown when it grows. The crown has pretty a good root system. When we renovate our alfalfa field, we run a chisel plow over the field first. Then follow up with a field cultivator. It takes a few trips over the field to get the field ready.

You might consider a roto tiller if the area is small. I get the best results in clay when the soil moisture is low. After a few passes, use a roller or cultipacker...it will be smooth and ready.

 

[NoMo]

Wish I could justify owning something like the Plotmaster.

 

[SCOOBY14B]

Thanks for the EXCELLENT ideas and information!!

None of you have mentioned anything about putting straw down. Is that something y'all don't think is neccesary? I've always thought and been told that you need the straw to keep the ground moist.

Again, thanks for the input and keep it coming.

 

[rambler]

I farm, corn, soybeans, alfalfa, oats, little bit of pasture grass. So don't know if my scale of operation applies here....

Alfalfa is tough to kill, deep tap root, tough crown. Tiller or plow to get it, or you will be fighting it a long time if you don't get the crown cut off. We were thinking of working up an old alfalfa field so I just drove the big farm disk across it, ripped a swath one disk width up. We changed our minds, kept that field 2 more years in alfalfa. That swath - was better than the rest of the field! Now, was kinda just the right conditions, but still - the disk did nothing to hurt it at that time.

Grass seed (and alfalfa) likes to be 1/4 inch deep in very firmly packed soil. Good black ground, level, & a packer after the seeding is best. Well, the Brillion specialty seeder, with a built in packer, is the best. Sit down when you price it - but of you are doing this commercially it's what you will need.... A harrow will work also, but you need to spread more seed to make up for what gets burried too deep. On my wet clay soil, too little water is rarely a problem, so I don't know about the straw. The county does so, but it will intorduce weeds as well.....

--->Paul