Seeking Ideas for a Rail Saw...Removing Live Edges...

[/pine]

This is a custom tool/machine that is meant to meet a specific purpose we have...it's not RE-inventing anything...The word "innovation" comes to mind...!

straight line rip saws are not meant to do what we want...using one for what I have described would be more work than the manual circular saw /chalk line method...

@ Moss...yes we have mocked up a couple of configurations with common rod to work both clamps...the problem is having them recess or drop down below the table when not engaged and still have the swing to come up and clamp the board from the top...

As for moving the saw and not the board...it just seems simpler to try to emulate a person pushing a circular saw...it would require a locking feed drive to keep it straight (similar to a straight line rip saw)...we are trying to keep it as simple as possible...

Everything sounds good until you put it into action...

 

[MossRoad]

This is a custom tool/machine that is meant to meet a specific purpose we have...it's not RE-inventing anything...The word "innovation" comes to mind...!

straight line rip saws are not meant to do what we want...using one for what I have described would be more work than the manual circular saw /chalk line method...

@ Moss...yes we have mocked up a couple of configurations with common rod to work both clamps...the problem is having them recess or drop down below the table when not engaged and still have the swing to come up and clamp the board from the top...

As for moving the saw and not the board...it just seems simpler to try to emulate a person pushing a circular saw...it would require a locking feed drive to keep it straight (similar to a straight line rip saw)...we are trying to keep it as simple as possible...

Everything sounds good until you put it into action...

Are all the boards uniform in thickness? I understand length and width will vary, but what about thickness? If the thickness is the same, you could bring the clamps down from the top. A long bar with many "feet" sticking down would accommodate many lengths. The feet with nothing under them would just not be touching anything when the master clamp lever was brought down.

 

[MossRoad]

Take a long rod or pipe and run it the length of your work table.
Suspend it up about a foot over the height you want and make some legs to hold it that height.
Figure out some bearings for the pipe to roll in.
You might need more than two legs.
Weld some two-tab arms about 6" long every couple feet to the pipe.
In between the two-tabs, fabricate a 1/2" nut with two pins on the sides so that the nut is between the tab arms and can swivel, like a gimbal mount.
Thread some 1/2" threaded rod into the nuts.
Put some feet on the other ends of the threaded rods.
Then you can adjust the length of the rods/clamps for the thickness of the material.
Make a lever on the end of the pipe to act like a crank arm.
Pull the arm, the clamps drop.
Lift the arm, the clamps raise.
They'll swivel on the nuts to always be vertical.
You could put a cross bar along the bottom of the threaded rod feet as well to keep them all even all the time. you'd have to thread it at the feet intervals.
You'll have to figure out a way to keep tension on the arm handle, or put a spring on it, etc...

Would something like that work?

 

[/pine]

Take a long rod or pipe and run it the length of your work table.
Suspend it up about a foot over the height you want and make some legs to hold it that height.
Figure out some bearings for the pipe to roll in.
You might need more than two legs.
Weld some two-tab arms about 6" long every couple feet to the pipe.
In between the two-tabs, fabricate a 1/2" nut with two pins on the sides so that the nut is between the tab arms and can swivel, like a gimbal mount.
Thread some 1/2" threaded rod into the nuts.
Put some feet on the other ends of the threaded rods.
Then you can adjust the length of the rods/clamps for the thickness of the material.
Make a lever on the end of the pipe to act like a crank arm.
Pull the arm, the clamps drop.
Lift the arm, the clamps raise.
They'll swivel on the nuts to always be vertical.
You could put a cross bar along the bottom of the threaded rod feet as well to keep them all even all the time. you'd have to thread it at the feet intervals.
You'll have to figure out a way to keep tension on the arm handle, or put a spring on it, etc...

Would something like that work?

Thanks for the ideas and your time...this is exactly what I was hoping to get from the TBN thinkers...you may have solved at least one of the problems we have been trying to overcome...

Hope to get more ideas we can use in any capacity...even what does not work specifically often opens eyes to new angles or concepts...Thanks to all for responding

Hope to do some more mocking up etc before New Years...

 

[Sawyer Rob]

This is what he wants....

Going in,

Coming out,

BUT, he doesn't wanna pay for it!!

SR

 

[/pine]

This is what he wants....

Going in,

------------------------------------

Coming out,



BUT, he doesn't wanna pay for it!!

SR

That is exactly right...the ROI is cost prohibitive...Got any specs. on that rig ?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Like what specs would you like?

SR.

 

[MossRoad]

Like what specs would you like?

SR.

The cost spec first. :laughing:

 

[/pine]

The cost spec first. :laughing:

Actually it's not really about the money but for the niche market we are trying to corner we have simpler visions...

IT looks to be of Woodmizer design...? what do they call it? i.e., make, model etc...?

 

[Norm W]

Here is a rig that can do what you want. It isn't new, I guess the steam power is optional.