Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Woodmizer didn't design everything, this design was around before mizer was invented.
It called am "edger", and mine was built by Norwood...
SR
Seeking Ideas for a Rail Saw...Removing Live Edges...
- Thread starter /pine
- Start date
It called am "edger", and mine was built by Norwood...
SR
OP
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
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- 15,059
Great setup...I've always admired your operation...we are trying to keep everything inside other than our BSM (Hudson Oscar pro 36)...which is under roof adjacent to the shop...
We are currently more interested in making a kiln than stepping up production...right now we have to send our lumber out at a rate of $300-$400 a thousand...the edge removal saw is mostly a winter planning project...
How about a shop vac driven vacuum table with 3,4 or 5 etc. ports on it to suck the board down to the stationary table while the rail saw traverses the board being trimmed ? Even a rough cut board can be retained with enough suction. With some operator controlled valving, you could select the vacuum ports that cover the lengths and widths of any group of boards.
You could even make the base out of rough wood to further the engagement of the board to be cut. BTW: my leaf and grass vac also has a huge airflow with plenty of suction capability if the inlet holes were just an inch or so in diameter. Be prepared for sawdust being attracted to the inlets, but that why an open ended blower/vac would be best. Use it as a dust collector, too.
You could even make the base out of rough wood to further the engagement of the board to be cut. BTW: my leaf and grass vac also has a huge airflow with plenty of suction capability if the inlet holes were just an inch or so in diameter. Be prepared for sawdust being attracted to the inlets, but that why an open ended blower/vac would be best. Use it as a dust collector, too.
dnw64
Veteran Member
Apparently you don't know what a straight line rip saw does, because that is exactly what they are designed for. An SLR does just what it's name says - rips a straight line regardless of the shape of the board or the angle at which you feed it.
dnw64
Veteran Member
Egon
Epic Contributor
Radial arm saw, extended narrow table with the option of fold outs for long boards, slide-able spring loaded horizontal roller to keep board tight to fence, power feeder.
A table saw with proper fences and power feeder would do the same thing.
Used RAS are cheep, the table would just need a wide plank, the roller could be a caster on a pivoting arm held tight with a spring. The feeder would be more expensive. Should be able to do all but the feeder for minimal costs. Chances are home built feeder at reasonable cost might be feasible. Nothing new here, just an assembly of parts to do the job required.
A table saw with proper fences and power feeder would do the same thing.
Used RAS are cheep, the table would just need a wide plank, the roller could be a caster on a pivoting arm held tight with a spring. The feeder would be more expensive. Should be able to do all but the feeder for minimal costs. Chances are home built feeder at reasonable cost might be feasible. Nothing new here, just an assembly of parts to do the job required.
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Budweiser John
Platinum Member
I’m assuming your looking for straightness only and not “glue line cut quality”?
Best production times will be with a multiple blade edger or a single blade straight line ripsaw.
Beam saws excellent in panel sizing but edging a 14’ long board will require an out, then back saw stroke and time to immobilize the board by what ever means then unclamping the board and processing the next one, ETC.
I’m inclined to think, with the decline in domestic furniture production, there must be a bunch of used straight line machines in the used market place. Many of those older machines won’t cut a glass smooth glue quality edge but will. establish a straight edge suitable for further processing. Forewarned, most of those old production machines will require 3 phase power.
B. John
Best production times will be with a multiple blade edger or a single blade straight line ripsaw.
Beam saws excellent in panel sizing but edging a 14’ long board will require an out, then back saw stroke and time to immobilize the board by what ever means then unclamping the board and processing the next one, ETC.
I’m inclined to think, with the decline in domestic furniture production, there must be a bunch of used straight line machines in the used market place. Many of those older machines won’t cut a glass smooth glue quality edge but will. establish a straight edge suitable for further processing. Forewarned, most of those old production machines will require 3 phase power.
B. John
dnw64
Veteran Member
MOST will, old OR new.
An SLR will need a good 5 HP; an entry level gang saw (such as ours) starts with 20 HP, most are 30-50 HP.
dnw64
Veteran Member
The key to making crooked boards straight with a saw is to NOT use a fence.
I've never seen a commercial add-on power feeder that would be suitable for feeding a piece straight, without fence guidance. Not that I need one, but would be interested to see the design.