Shed Truss Question

   / Shed Truss Question #1  

Dougryan

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
91
Location
Webster, NY
Tractor
Cub Cadet 3206
Hi,
I continue to plan my shed. I have an idea to include some covered area outside the shed. At first I was thinking about building the shed and adding a lean-to extension off one side... Then I started to wonder about getting longer roof trusses and extending the covered area that way. See my rough drawing for the idea.

Partial Shed.png

Can I do this with normal (stock) trusses or do they need a special design?
I expect to put posts and a top beam to support the open space end of the truss, not a cantilever roof design.

Thoughts? Any images to share?

Thanks,
Doug
 
   / Shed Truss Question #2  
As long as the post will be carrying the load I would think you could use normal trusses.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #3  
Sure it is not uncommon at all. I would suggest going 8’ on the large overhang (porch) with your 15’ enclosed and 1’ overhang on the building with a 24’ truss. Or enclose 16’ with 1’ overhang, 7’ large overhang and same 24’ truss.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #4  
The only way it would be a problem is if the truss was cantilevered out over the edge. Make sure you tell the truss manufacturer where the supports will be and they will happily make you a truss.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #5  
The only way it would be a problem is if the truss was cantilevered out over the edge. Make sure you tell the truss manufacturer where the supports will be and they will happily make you a truss.

Good point/advice. Truss co’s usually very helpful wit info.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #6  
That will work, just size the post correctly...
 
   / Shed Truss Question #7  
As stated above- no issue and it will use the same truss. Note the wider the truss the higher the ridge for a given pitch. That may not be an issue for you but for some it’s a factor. If it gets high enough they make storage trusses (no webbing in the middle) for lighter stuff.

As far as the posts and beams. Obviously the more posts the smaller and cheaper the posts and beams are. But the more footings and concrete. In general, posts that are 6-10’ apart seem to be the cheapest option. Of course you can go bigger or smaller depending on your needs or desired look.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #8  
Hi,
I continue to plan my shed. I have an idea to include some covered area outside the shed. At first I was thinking about building the shed and adding a lean-to extension off one side... Then I started to wonder about getting longer roof trusses and extending the covered area that way. See my rough drawing for the idea.

View attachment 595336

Can I do this with normal (stock) trusses or do they need a special design?
I expect to put posts and a top beam to support the open space end of the truss, not a cantilever roof design.

Thoughts? Any images to share?

Thanks,


Yes....you can use "normal" trusses but you will need a post under every truss, or a beam supported by posts upon which to rest the trusses.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #9  
When you buy, or order your trusses, you will tell them how far your span will be. The inside wall does not matter. So the distance from the wall on the right side, and the beam that will sit on the post on the left side is what they will need to know.

With that solid wall sort of in the middle of your span, you could easily build a rafter type roof with the center wall being load bearing. For me, this would be cheaper then buying trusses and then getting the trusses up there.
 
   / Shed Truss Question #10  
If you support the outer edge with a beam and posts you have no issue. If you dont want to do that, design the trusses to bear on the front wall and cantilever over to the front. Easier with the beam and post through.
 

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