Shipping container hay barn

[3Lfarms]

I talked to the place that sells shipping containers near the farm. That is their sole business. They said it will only need support at the 4 corners. In fact the city nearest my place only requires piers and securement at the four corners to act as the basis for a structure.
So now I know how to support the containers, I just need to figure out whether I’m going to use wood or steel trusses and how wide to give me the most bang for the buck.

 

[EddieWalker]

When I bought my shipping containers, they had me select the two that I wanted from a whole pile of them. I was surprised at how rough some of them where. It's like buying lumber, you need to spend the time to pick out the best ones.

 

[3Ts]

When I bought my shipping containers, they had me select the two that I wanted from a whole pile of them. I was surprised at how rough some of them where. It's like buying lumber, you need to spend the time to pick out the best ones.

The shipping containers come in different categories. Here's a link that describes the different types and conditions and things to consider when getting one:

Storage Container Buyers Guide | Storage Containers For Sale | Cargo Containers for Sale | Shipping Containers for Sale | Portable Storage for Sale

 

[HawkinsHollow]

I bought a 40' shipping container sight unseen a little over a year ago. They brought me the ugliest SOB container I had ever seen huge dents in top, patches, awful floor. Didn't pay the guy upfront so I had a few chips to bargain with. He wanted $2500 for it, I had the driver(not the guy I owed for the container) drop the container THEN started my negotiation process. I easily got him down to $1700, in hindsight I should have held out for more. The $800 discount I got went towards things I was planning on doing any way. Roof structure, windows, doors etc. If I had to do it over I might drive down to Atlanta and pick it out next time. I was in the same situation. I wanted quick, easy, secure storage. And you get that immediately with a shipping container. Have fun!

 

[ddgood]

I've been planning something similar to the OP. We are in the process of splitting up some family land co-owned by my cousins and my dad. Dad and I currently have a couple of 20' containers near the existing tractor barn on land that will eventually go to one of the cousins. Dad has 50 acres he separately owns that adjoins one part of the property and we are going to move the containers there.  I've been playing with arrangements to put a shed over the containers to store a tractor and dozer. I was thinking I would just use the 20s but have decided to go ahead and buy a 40' high bay container and put the two 20s end to end and the 40' spaced 30' foot away to create a 1200ft^2 barn. It will look something like the sketch below but with different dimensions. Each end will sit on 1.5' x 8' x 6" slab poured with two 36" deep piers. Taking note up thread, I will put in some weld plates into the slab to weld down the containers and using translucent panel for light. I'm planning on 4 or 5' tall pony walls to get at least 12' clearance under the joists to allow for indoor storage of a travel trailer.

 

[bcp]

I would look for at least one side door container.

side door container at DuckDuckGo

Bruce

 

[aczlan]

I would use the translucent panels in your walls and gable ends, not in the roof.
Otherwise if you have a hail storm, it can punch right through the translucent panels. Also, if someone is walking up there and missteps they can go through a translucent panel. Both of the barns we recently did have translucent panels under the eaves for the first 2 or 3 ft.

Aaron Z

 

[Rustyiron]

Aaron they have a new polycarbonate (vs. the old fiberglass) panel that's clear as glass and I believe ok with hail, but as you mention you better be walking on a purlin if your on the roof.
I put 3 evenly spaced 8' pieces (3' wide) in a 38' roof on a lean to I just added and it's amazing how much light that lets in.

 

[3Lfarms]

I've been planning something similar to the OP. We are in the process of splitting up some family land co-owned by my cousins and my dad. Dad and I currently have a couple of 20' containers near the existing tractor barn on land that will eventually go to one of the cousins. Dad has 50 acres he separately owns that adjoins one part of the property and we are going to move the containers there. I've been playing with arrangements to put a shed over the containers to store a tractor and dozer. I was thinking I would just use the 20s but have decided to go ahead and buy a 40' high bay container and put the two 20s end to end and the 40' spaced 30' foot away to create a 1200ft^2 barn. It will look something like the sketch below but with different dimensions. Each end will sit on 1.5' x 8' x 6" slab poured with two 36" deep piers. Taking note up thread, I will put in some weld plates into the slab to weld down the containers and using translucent panel for light. I'm planning on 4 or 5' tall pony walls to get at least 12' clearance under the joists to allow for indoor storage of a travel trailer.

View attachment 604004

That is a much better drawing than my crappy sketch! I’m going to save that one.
What is your plan for attaching the pony walls to the containers?

I am worried about bracing it against side loads wanting to rack the whole roof structure. I am thinking about using structural steel so that the bracing doesn’t intrude into the open area of the barn, or will a lean-to style roof over the containers be enough structure to keep it from wanting to parallelogram?

 

[QRTRHRS]

If the plan is to place some kind of material between the purlins and the tin to negate condensation, I would not recommend any translucent panels. The condensation under those translucent panels can be enhanced and will stain the purlins/trusswork/rafters pretty heavily.

 

[ArlyA]

Gee, I love those translucent panels and have added them to the last 2 sheds I built. Makes "unpowered" sheds well lite. The problem of the "sweating" is dependent on the location they are being used.

 

[ddgood]

That is a much better drawing than my crappy sketch! I知 going to save that one.
What is your plan for attaching the pony walls to the containers?

I am worried about bracing it against side loads wanting to rack the whole roof structure. I am thinking about using structural steel so that the bracing doesn稚 intrude into the open area of the barn, or will a lean-to style roof over the containers be enough structure to keep it from wanting to parallelogram?

Below is a great pic of the roof of a container for reference. I plan on bolting the pony walls down onto the beam that runs from end to end on the roof. This beam is about an inch shorter than the corners and the corrigated portion of the roof. I'll plane down a treated board so the bottom 2x6 of the pony wall sits flush across the corners and roof and use construction adhesive and through bolts.

I'll put some diagonal bracing front to rear on the pony walls and I think that the lean-to will provide side to side strength.


.

 

[3Lfarms]

So I am thinking about ordering the 3 point cement mixer from Everything Attachments to pour my footings/piers for this project and the many other projects to follow.
To support a container by the four corners and the eventual 40 foot wide roof structure, modest snow load, and weight of contents, how big do the footings need to be?
Right now, I am planning to dig a 30x30 hole with the backhoe for a footer that is 30” x 30” x 10” thick, and 36 deep at the bottom. Soil is 100% clay with no rocks at all and is virgin land. Is that big enough?
The hole will have 4” of compacted road base in the bottom. It will have a square rebar box to keep it as strong as possible.
Will 3 or 4 pieces of rebar be enough to connect the sono tube pier to the footing in 2 separate pours a day apart?
How much rebar needs to be in the sono tube?

 

[Rustyiron]

Have you guy's "run the numbers"? I've considered building what you're talking about but I already have the containers. Purchasing a pair of $3000+ containers for what really 2 end walls and is a rather awkward size for storage, you end up with stuff in front of stuff, I know. Now they are very secure but if your on a budget, this is not an alternate to cheap weather protection that is reasonably secure (a pole building). That $6-7k for the 2 "can's" would more than pay for the framing materials and I'd include a fair chunk of the cost of the trusses as well.

3L your described footers will be fine and 2-3 bars in each post will be fine. Once backfilled you should only have a simple compression load on your "foundation" as long as your only 10-12" out of the ground. You could also up your psi (concrete mix) of your posts.

 

[3Lfarms]

Rustyiron, I agree my plan wouldn’t make sense for most people, but I need secure storage for at least three years before I need the building. I will install one container and add a second a year or two later. Then the roof over both will be added when I need to start storing hay.

 

[Rustyiron]

3L, a few things while selecting your container:
Go inside and close the doors looking for light (holes) and
I'd pay up to $500 more for a good (original) paint job. Bring along a ladder to check out the roof for patch jobs.