Buying Advice Should I tweak my Kubota package purchase a bit ? seeking opinions re now or later ?

[Doofy]

sounds like you have a plan & lots of good advice. my only comment is that you are putting out a substantial amount w/your purchase. the model tractor you have chosen is quite small. stand back and assure yourself that you won't regret not having gone larger esp for future needs.

to me having only a 600# fel capacity alone would warrant looking at a bigger machine. & you could always purchase various implements as you can afford. & btw fel rating i believe is 24" from pivot pins. carrying loads extended on pallet forks can quickly reduce fel capacity
lots of decisions! best regards

Wowza! I just looked at the specs on the BX23S and never realized it was that tiny. I've seen Tonka equipment that was larger. I suppose it must have its niche and a following but I would be hard pressed to use it. To small and light to be of much use to me. I would also seriously consider an upgrade. I'd much rather grow in to a tractor than be regretful from the start.

 

[PhysAssist]

this info is gold - keep it coming. thank you.

thought - what about tubed tires with the calcium fill (to avoid the rusting issues) - is that even an option ?

If you are going to fill- consider using Rimguard instead [called beet juice commonly], my Kubota dealer threw it in when we had our "B" in for a warranty service item as part of the $250 co-pay [which also covered trailering, etc].

There was no question for us about filling our rears [and using a very heavy ballast box]- because within a week or so of getting out tractor, we had had several episodes of lifting our rear wheels off the ground- once as my SWMBO stood up to get off and help me with something else, once with the MMM on mowing down a hill, and finding an otherwise virtually invisible subsidence [dip] hidden by the long grass- both of which put the fear of God in us [and of leverage and its effects on the C.O.G].

The best advice for all of this is what someone else already said- it depends-

1) on what you will use it for- and for us at least, that list just keeps expanding.
2) your local terrain,[hills or flats, dry or swampy, rocky vs...etc]
3) Your comfort level with improvising or making changes down the road.

One thing I wish I had had the option for [but didn't and didn't even know it was a ?] is the Quick Attach- it would have made so many choices easier and given me more to make.

Other questions you didn't mention:

what flavor of tires- turf vs industrial vs Ag.

MMM vs 3-pt mower [finish vs rough vs bush hog]- also there is a ewhole thread underway about the -/+ of MMM vs 3-pt mowers- with some very valid points on both sides.

Chains [I know you mentioned it] but again that depends on use and the tires you choose.

Also, I would get pallet forks ASAP- it's another thing I don't know how we got along without in those dark years B.T. [Before Tractor].

YMMV,
PA

PS: Welcome to the [Kubota] family!

 

[jeff9366]

You are puting out a substantial amount for your tractor purchase. The model tractor you have chosen is quite small.

To me having only 600 pound FEL capacity would warrant looking for a bigger machine. Carrying FEL loads extended on pallet forks can quickly reduce FEL capacity.

Stand back and assure yourself you won't regret buying so light a tractor.

The optimal way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish your tasks. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models.

For most tractor tasks greater chassis weight is more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend. In subcompact and compact tractor categories it requires a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires mean more ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking, yielding a less disturbing passage over rough pastures and woodlands.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor you eat more depreciation on the implements than on the tractor. Passing time with multiple implement browsers is a pain. ((Ask me how I know.))

 

[PhysAssist]

I have filled tires, if I get another tractor I'm going wheel weights most likely.
Rear wheel weight isn't just for counterbalance or loader work, it comes in handy when pulling a box blade etc. where the only weight on the rear tires is the tractors weight.

Why are going to change to wheel weights vs loaded tires- [where you can always ADD weights too]?

 

[PhysAssist]

I did mention this before, but I will again. The 3 things I would absolutely get right at the beginning are:

1) 3rd function valve. I didn't and had to pay extra to get it added later. That included a pickup, install and delivery charge. Definitely a miss on my part.
2) 2 inch wheel spacers. Before I got mine installed, I got the "pucker factor" on slopes that I didn't even think were steep. I can't really explain what that feels like, but as soon as you feel it, you won't forget it. Now I go on those same slopes and I don't even flinch. I feel planted to the ground.
3) Wheel weights. As mentioned, I didn't get them for the traction. The 600 lb backhoe gives me plenty of that. What they do give me is stability. Just as above, you want as much weight, as low to the ground that you can get. That helps lower the center of gravity. You have to remember that backhoe, while heavy, sticks up in the air quite a bit and moves the center of gravity. The weights help lower that. Plus, if you ever remove the BH, you will lose that weight back there. Without something, the FEL wont be able to pick up much before you rear tires are barely on the ground.

This is why loaded tires, wheel weights or both is a good idea- most people put the BH on for a limited # of tasks, and take it off for every thing else [if for maneuverability, if nothing else]- and in the thread I mention previously about MMM vs 3-pt mowers, some of the posters even take their FELs off too- so I doubt you'd really want to mow with a BH onboard.

Heck, we got a ballast box in addition to our weighted rears, because mowing with our small [48"] but heavy [+/-500#] RO-box blade was too cumbersome.

TD's comments re: C.O.G are valid as well.

This is the link for the MMM vs 3-pt mower thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/393439-mid-mount-mowers-5.html#post5070871

 

[scaredychicken]

Quote Originally Posted by big bubba View Post
"sounds like you have a plan & lots of good advice. my only comment is that you are putting out a substantial amount w/your purchase. the model tractor you have chosen is quite small. stand back and assure yourself that you won't regret having gone larger esp for future needs.

to me having only a 600# fel capacity alone would warrant looking at a bigger machine. & you could always purchase various implements as you can afford. lots of decisions! best regards"

Ground clearance and lift capacity is what made me upsize from BX

I am basing this purchase on 1) my novice tractor experience - first tractor 2) my own limitations with a physical disability 3) the tractor features, ease of use and 4) what general duties this unit will do for my hobby farm. Anything more substantial and I have lots of nearby farmer friends around. I have thunk of this and changed my mind for many years, but yes, I may desire a bigger tractor in the future.

I had thought about the B3030 earlier, but my wife is no longer beekeeping, so the lift weight of a pallet fork is not as essential.

 

[prichard]

Don't get me wrong, I was not trying to talk you out of this tractor just explaining my decision. There a lot of BX owners on this forum that absolutely love their tractors and they do everything they want them to do. BTW, my lift capacity is not all that much higher than the BX, I won't be moving round bales and never foresee a need to.

With your needs this may mean this is the right tractor even if smaller than you'd like. Purchasing is very personal we each have to decide the best option for ourselves.

 

[Doofy]

I believe I would spend time at several Dealerships and get a real feel of several different brands and models. Are they capable of meeting your needs and do they feel right? I don't think you can get a proper "Fit" just by looking. Best of luck.

 

[timswi]

I have a BX23 (2004 vintage but not materially different) and as others have said the BH is plenty enough ballast for the FEL. I did not fill my rear tires since I used to use it for mowing and didn't want to mash the lawn any more than necessary. I have fairly hilly property and I've never had an issue even with turf tires. Great little machines, kinda like a Swiss army knife, doesn't do anything "perfect" but does everything well. There are times I wish I had a bigger machine (like today) but mostly it has served me very well and it's staying with me until it starts giving me grief. Since I don't mow with it anymore and it stays in a climate controlled garage, I hope that day is a long way off.

 

[check]

Neither filled rear tires nor wheel weights make sense to me on a 23-horsepower tractor USED ON FAIRLY LEVEL GROUND. The rear tires are too small. Never fill front tires.

Why not fill front tires? I did.