Simple Framing Question

[Jstpssng]

Another option might be to build as heavy as you can, then have temporary props to support the center. You would have to do use them religously though, as others have mentioned all that it takes is one snow load. Around here at least, those 12" storms with snow that melts in a few days is usually wet and heavy.

 

[/pine]

Just a couple of other (off topic) considerations...

Lift...it is important to tie all the framing into the foundation to prevent lift...i.e., posts/walls secured at foundation, beams secured to posts, rafters secured to beams...

The more overhang there is the more lift there is...short overhangs need gutters to prevent mud holes in front of the opening and splashing the siding etc...gravel will only do so much...

A suggestion if the OP is going to be using rough cut and unplaned lumber as mentioned...larger nails are required to get the same purchase as typical common nails in dimensional lumber...need to go up a couple of sizes for rough sawn material...

If working with 2x rough lumber...invest in a pneumatic palm nailer and a sack of 20 penny HDG nails

 

[Diggin It]

I'll probably use timber screws instead of nails, or maybe even carriage bolts through all of it. For now, planning on 1x8s, wood, metal, wood, metal, wood. I can get 6" x 50' galvanized flashing fairly cheap, then use a double thickness for each of the two layers. I know flashing isn't a very heavy gauge, but doubling it should help.


Posts are well anchored against kick out or lift. I typically use rafter ties also.

 

[/pine]

Right now plywood is expensive but rips of 1/2" (4 ply) plywood would be much better that using galv. flashing as a flitch plate (if I understood correctly?)...to be effective a piece of steel should be at least 3/16" thick...

Be aware...no joint in the beam should be any further away than 25% from a post/bearing point..

 

[Diggin It]

^^ I have some pieces of OSB and other materials, but none are longer than 8'. Since the 1xs will all be spliced, I was thinking that full length (12-14', whatever it runs out to be) metal would help more.

 

[/pine]

I would try to get full length 1x's and laminate them in place with osb or plywood in between the boards...put an 8' rip in the center and fill in the ends...even at 14' the breaks in the plywood is within the 25% rule...

use glue and clamps...(bolts make good clamps for laminating beams)

 

[the viking]

If you are getting milled oak boards ,have the guy mill some 4x8's or whatever? Built up beams, box beams, and flitchplates are alternatives to real beams IMO. Less work to just use a real beam.

 

[/pine]

In one of the OP's posts it says a single member beam is too heavy to place flying solo...

 

[Diggin It]

I've been thinking about a single beam. I have a couple of 4 x 4 x 8 oak posts and it's hard enough to lift those very high. I don't see being able to handle a 4 x 8 x 14 to a height of 8' without some kind of machinery. I could do it one end at a time and place scaffolding to support it. But then I'd need some kind of specialty hardware to anchor, or I'd need to notch the posts.

Plan for now is as shown. 2 x 8 headers on each side of the posts. Center post would not normally be there, but could be installed if we get a heavy snow forecast. Fill between the headers to support on top of the temporary post might be a couple of pieces of 2 x 8 or 4 x 4, whichever I have available. This way, I can use more standard brackets and timber screws or nails.

I can use my normal method of ratchet straps to lift each end of the headers into place so I can drive anchors.

 

[Hay Dude]

Just make braces or props