Small Post-Framed Barn Construction: Opinions Welcome!

  
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UOFan

UOFan

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^^ Well, still working on the front of the Barn. Been delayed because I’ve been focusing on the new shop, just a bigger version of our current one.

I can’t figure out how to rotate pictures...so I apologize!

for the front of the barn, I just sank 4x4s for the door frames, and attached them to the header with some 12” Simpson steel plates.
 

deezler

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Wait, so you are building a goat barn, while ALSO building a new shop, directly next to your older existing shop? This just all got way more interesting lol.

More pics of the shop buildings! I'm not sure about the picture rotation but maybe you could try rotating them in your phone before uploading.
 

Steve_NH_TL90A

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Realizing its already built but for next time or others out there, with a 15' span you do not need center posts. The roof load will transmit to the outside walls so there is no vertical load on the center, especially with very little snow load.
Your barn looks great and it looks like quality construction!
 

N80

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Will echo what others have said about condensation. I built an open on all 4 sides tractor shed about ten years ago. Did not know what I was doing. It is a little overbuilt and plenty sturdy. It has survived one decent snow/ice event (very rare here) as well as some big winds and storms. But, not knowing any better I put tin over purlins. There are many days that it rains in there from condensation. All my equipment has marks from drip lines. Most of the purlins are water stained. A few have gotten soft.

All future shops, sheds, barns or carports will have some sort of sheathing with tar paper and then metal.
 

Rustyiron

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This has been around for 5-6 years iirc. I've never seen or used it but it states that it's cheaper but the advertisement doesn't say than what, plywood? I've used tyvek under the metal on open framing (purlins) but that's a super pain in the ass to install (you can't see the framing) but there's no drips at all.
20220114_070930.jpg

With the price of 4x8 sheathing and a tar paper or synthetic underlayment and labor, it may well be worth a look.
 

Hay Dude

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Didn’t read all the replies, but I think some diagonal bracing would help stiffen your structure.
Good luck!
 

Rustyiron

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^^^ to a limited extent. After years of expansion and contraction of the panels, added to lack of proper framing diagonals, those holes through the 26/ 29ga.
(0.079"/0.0149") will "egg out" even more with the buildings movement.
For the sake of only 4 2x4x16's, one at each corner of the roof, I don't rely on any possible "racking" abilities of the metal.
 

Hay Dude

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^^^ to a limited extent. After years of expansion and contraction of the panels, added to lack of proper framing diagonals, those holes through the 26/ 29ga.
(0.079"/0.0149") will "egg out" even more with the buildings movement.
For the sake of only 4 2x4x16's, one at each corner of the roof, I don't rely on any possible "racking" abilities of the metal.
The diagonal braces actually help prevent the racking and twisting, which keeps fasteners from elongating the holes in the tin in the first place.
Also keeps framing “square” while applying roofing and siding.
 

OldPaint

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About the only thing I would have done differently on the framing is skip the center posts and put up trusses. I made my own and had a 24' span. There is ZERO sag in the roof and the building is probably going to land somewhere in one piece if a tornado ever gets it. I put all the trusses together with screws and glue. Ain't no way they're coming apart (with any component in one piece).
 
 
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