Skid Steer QA Bale Spear

[bindian]

I have been needing a bale spear, but thought store bought ones were priced too high. So I decided to build my own. I started with a Skid Steer QA Adapter Plate I bought at a Richie Brothers Auction for $65.

Then I added 2x2 inch square tubing with 1/8 inch thick wall for a frame. Then I cut a 2x4 inch tube that is 1/4 inch thick for a support for the spear's sleeve. The sleeve is 2.25 inch diameter that was welded in with the front flush and the bolt hole in the back.

Two stabilizer spike sleeves were welded onto the frame. The metal cost $41 and the welding cost $65. The 48 inch spear and two 17 inch 1.25 diameter spikes with shipping cost $123 for a total of $294. Add in 5 dollars for a can of gloss black spray rustoleum.
hugs, Brandi

 

[DJ54]

Nice job..!! Is that a Washburn spear? If so, I have two of the 39" ones. One for the Bobcat, and one on the tractor, to handle my 4 X 4 bales. Oldest one is about 10 years old, and love it..!! Tough stuff..!!

 

[bindian]

Nice job..!! Is that a Washburn spear? If so, I have two of the 39" ones. One for the Bobcat, and one on the tractor, to handle my 4 X 4 bales. Oldest one is about 10 years old, and love it..!! Tough stuff..!!

DJ,
Thanks. Yes, it is a Washburn spear. Weighing around 60 pounds, it is tough and stout! I think they make yours a little shorter now at 37 inches.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Paul N]

Nice job Binbian,
I just bought a 4x5 round baler 3 weeks ago, so now I'm going to need a spear. I was looking at hayspear.com, they have plenty of choices and seem to be reasonably priced. I still have some questions that maybe some of the readers can shed some light. I'm thinking that for a 4' bale, the 39" spear would work as good if not better then a 48". Easier to penatrate, and less likely to break from too much leverage when sliding the bale off into a feeder. Next question: the attachment end of the spear is offered two ways. The first way is to simply slide the spear into the weld on sleeve, and insert the cross bolt. The second way is with a tapered spear end that mates to the tapered weld in sleeve, with a nut on the end. Cost wise, there is only $3 difference. Does one have an advantage over the other?

Paul

 

[bindian]

Nice job Binbian,
I just bought a 4x5 round baler 3 weeks ago, so now I'm going to need a spear. I was looking at hayspear.com, they have plenty of choices and seem to be reasonably priced. I still have some questions that maybe some of the readers can shed some light. I'm thinking that for a 4' bale, the 39" spear would work as good if not better then a 48". Easier to penatrate, and less likely to break from too much leverage when sliding the bale off into a feeder. Next question: the attachment end of the spear is offered two ways. The first way is to simply slide the spear into the weld on sleeve, and insert the cross bolt. The second way is with a tapered spear end that mates to the tapered weld in sleeve, with a nut on the end. Cost wise, there is only $3 difference. Does one have an advantage over the other?

Paul

Paul,
I can not see any advantage over the thru bolt or nut on the end....other than the design of the spear frame. I think the welded sleeve and thru bolt is easier to mount in the frame. Just cut a hole and weld.

I went with the thru bolt with the sleeve, so I could weld the sleeve in the frame. The 48 inch spear goes into the frame about 6 inches, so the thru bolt is on the back side of the frame. Which leaves 42 inches, so it won't poke thru a 4 foot bale and into a barn wall.
hugs, Brandi

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

The ones with the tapered sleeve will tighten up as you crank the nut eliminating any possibility of it vibrating in the mount. Up here, I've never seen the thru-bolt type, only the tapered

 

[bindian]

The ones with the tapered sleeve will tighten up as you crank the nut eliminating any possibility of it vibrating in the mount. Up here, I've never seen the thru-bolt type, only the tapered

Good to know. Guess they don't vibrate with a bale on them.:laughing:
hugs, Brandi