Happy you resolved the problem. When steering, is the blower being floated or?
Skid steer snow blower on tractor loader?
- Thread starter hayden
- Start date
You still have a good deal there. I bought mine new with the tractor and I think it was $10000 to $12000 installed. I've had a few front mount snow blowers. Non of them will turn a corner in deep snow. They will curve but not turn. To do a 90 degree turn you need to cut it off like pieces of a pie. I blow out almost 3/4 of an acre of parking lots around buildings on 1 lot and don't even use chains.
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I am very intrigued. How come? Steering brakes do not help either?
I am in Md. So have little to need for one. I was following this thread because I am thinking about using a power pack for a front mower. Now wondering if some of the same issues may pop up.
If your cutting thru say 12" of snow the 12" wall of uncut snow is causing enough resistance in slippery conditions to stop you from turning. If you are only blowing 4" of very light and fluffy snow now it will turn. Try to turn your tractor when scooping a bucket of dirt. A little exaggeration but same physics apply.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
i use steering brakes, and i think i can manuver better than i did with a 3 point blower. i can also raise it up over gate height to make tight spots easier to get thru. i do have chains though, as i also use a front plow. plowing on ice without chains is a fools errand.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
Yes, in float.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
Steering with the brakes helps a bit, but if I apply to much braking on one wheel it bogs down the tractor.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
Just finished my first "real" snow clearing of about 12". The machine works great, but the extra foot of width (7' vs previous 6' blower) really makes the tractor work hard, and forces me to move really slow. I couldn't go more than about 1-2 mph without losing too much rpm. I think a 7' blower would be better with 70+ hp at the PTO, not 50 hp. 50 hp works - it's just slow cutting a deep, full with swath. In a small downfall, the extra width is great because everything goes much faster.
I also think the optional cooler on the hydraulic power pack is a must-have on this size machine if you are clearing anything more than maybe 4-6" of snow. With my cooler installed, but the fan not yet hooked up, my hydraulic tank got up to 160F. That's not damaging, but is approaching the 180F limit. After my first pass I stopped and wired up the fan, and now the tank is hovering around a comfortable 100F
I also think the optional cooler on the hydraulic power pack is a must-have on this size machine if you are clearing anything more than maybe 4-6" of snow. With my cooler installed, but the fan not yet hooked up, my hydraulic tank got up to 160F. That's not damaging, but is approaching the 180F limit. After my first pass I stopped and wired up the fan, and now the tank is hovering around a comfortable 100F
Hello everyone, I’ve found this a really interesting and thought provoking thread. I’ve been battling this winter’s snow with a walk behind snow blower and finally decided I’ve had enough. When it’s time only a foot it’s ok, just takes about 90 minutes do do a tidy job on the track down the hill to the road. But, as usual, we got the three days of horizontal snow and then it gets tiresome. 5 hours on the snowblower isn’t fun anymore!!
So the wife finally suggested we spend the money and get one for the tractor (result!!). But, as others have noted, advancing years and turning backwards to reverse don’t go well together. So, front mounting. But, although there is a mid pto, I rather like the fel route. Which means a 3ph mounted hydraulic pump to power it.
So to the questions. The Erskine models are not available here in central Europe, and I don’t quite understand why they are so expensive, relative to what seems to be prices for the parts. Am I missing something?
Also, the Erskine oil tank seems to stick out from the rear of the tractor rather a long way. Doesn’t it get in the way when manoeuvring in tight spaces? After all there’s quite a bit sticking out the front already. I was thinking that, if I put one together, I could make the tank higher, wider and reduce the back projection. Any issues?
Also a few of you have mentioned the pig of attaching the pump to the pto. I already know this delight, as I have a back actor with the same joy. I have been thinking of putting QDs on the hoses from the pump, so that you can do it without the machine being in the way. Thoughts??
Thanks in anticipation
Andrew
So the wife finally suggested we spend the money and get one for the tractor (result!!). But, as others have noted, advancing years and turning backwards to reverse don’t go well together. So, front mounting. But, although there is a mid pto, I rather like the fel route. Which means a 3ph mounted hydraulic pump to power it.
So to the questions. The Erskine models are not available here in central Europe, and I don’t quite understand why they are so expensive, relative to what seems to be prices for the parts. Am I missing something?
Also, the Erskine oil tank seems to stick out from the rear of the tractor rather a long way. Doesn’t it get in the way when manoeuvring in tight spaces? After all there’s quite a bit sticking out the front already. I was thinking that, if I put one together, I could make the tank higher, wider and reduce the back projection. Any issues?
Also a few of you have mentioned the pig of attaching the pump to the pto. I already know this delight, as I have a back actor with the same joy. I have been thinking of putting QDs on the hoses from the pump, so that you can do it without the machine being in the way. Thoughts??
Thanks in anticipation
Andrew
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OP
hayden
Veteran Member
I considered building the PTO power pack myself, and might have tried if I hadn't found this used package. But in hind sight I'm glad I didn't. The tank alone would be a lot of work to build with multiple ports, a sight gauge, fill port and strainer, and return filter. Plus the mounting brackets for the 3PH. The mounting brackets on the Erskine unit can also accept rear suitcase weights which I gather is needed with some tractors to counteract the weight of the snow blower. I also discovered while repairing my pump that the PTO reduction gear plus pumps is quite an expensive part at around $3000 for the package. The replacement pump was along was $850. So I doubt you would save much money, but if availability forces you to build your own, then you do what you need to do.
The whole rig is long, but I haven't found the power pack to be a problem so far. You need to be aware of it, but I think the biggest issue is backing into a snow bank and bending the stand legs. I leave the legs in their down position for convenience, and you could gain some ground clearance if you raised them up.
Going wider with the tank is certainly an option an d would reduce the length of the rig. But I think there is a trade off when it comes to mounting the pump. So let's talk about installation and removal of the pump first.
I actually don't find the pump too bad to install. I would guess mine weighs 30-50lbs. Definitely not 80 lbs, but it appears that Erskine is now using a different pump/gear package that is heavier than mine. I have found a few things that ease handling it.
- I installed a length of chain to the pump, plus a hook, and a bolt centered on the chain. The hook let's me hang the pump from the top link pin when the power pack is removed from the tractor. Without it, the pump will be dragging on the floor. And the bolt acts as a T-handle that I can use to more easily lift and move the pump around to install/remove. The picture below shows this, but doesn't include the t-handle bolt.
- When installing the pump, I pull the draw bar out as far as possible. I can then hook the pump over it and use it to take the weight of the pump as I get it worked into position. Then once in position, it's one short lift to get it onto the PTO shaft. Then I slide the draw bar into it's final position and pin it. Removal is the reverse.
- I install the pump with the tank generally in the right position, but pulled back and turned off to one side a bit. This gives good access to the PTO while still having the tank close enough so the hoses can reach. The trick is to have the tank on a dolly of some sort so you can wheel it around.
I don't think quick connects will be practical for the pump. The suction line is 1-1/2" hose, so it would be a very big quick connect. I would also be concerned about any added flow restriction on the suction line. On the pressure line, you could use a quick connect (it's a 3/4" line), but with the added danger of a blow out if the coupler ever became disconnected since there would no longer be a pressure relief valve in action. Personally, I wouldn't do it.
Now getting back to the tank shape, you could certainly play around with that. I think I'd go up before I'd go wider, just so it doesn't encroach on the space needed to install and remove the pump.
Another thing to pay a bunch of attention to are the relative displacements and ratios of the blower motors and the pump + step-up gear. At PTO speed, the flow needs to result in the auger and fan operating at sufficient speed to throw the snow far enough. I have no idea what the required speeds are, but you can probably infer it from the various motor and pump sizes used in the Erskine product. Or if you buy a different skid steer blower, look at the required flow rate. I'd target the upper quartile of the flow range. From that you can figure out a pump size for the PTO, taking the step-up gearing into consideration.
Good luck, and keep us posted on how you make out.
The whole rig is long, but I haven't found the power pack to be a problem so far. You need to be aware of it, but I think the biggest issue is backing into a snow bank and bending the stand legs. I leave the legs in their down position for convenience, and you could gain some ground clearance if you raised them up.
Going wider with the tank is certainly an option an d would reduce the length of the rig. But I think there is a trade off when it comes to mounting the pump. So let's talk about installation and removal of the pump first.
I actually don't find the pump too bad to install. I would guess mine weighs 30-50lbs. Definitely not 80 lbs, but it appears that Erskine is now using a different pump/gear package that is heavier than mine. I have found a few things that ease handling it.
- I installed a length of chain to the pump, plus a hook, and a bolt centered on the chain. The hook let's me hang the pump from the top link pin when the power pack is removed from the tractor. Without it, the pump will be dragging on the floor. And the bolt acts as a T-handle that I can use to more easily lift and move the pump around to install/remove. The picture below shows this, but doesn't include the t-handle bolt.
- When installing the pump, I pull the draw bar out as far as possible. I can then hook the pump over it and use it to take the weight of the pump as I get it worked into position. Then once in position, it's one short lift to get it onto the PTO shaft. Then I slide the draw bar into it's final position and pin it. Removal is the reverse.
- I install the pump with the tank generally in the right position, but pulled back and turned off to one side a bit. This gives good access to the PTO while still having the tank close enough so the hoses can reach. The trick is to have the tank on a dolly of some sort so you can wheel it around.
I don't think quick connects will be practical for the pump. The suction line is 1-1/2" hose, so it would be a very big quick connect. I would also be concerned about any added flow restriction on the suction line. On the pressure line, you could use a quick connect (it's a 3/4" line), but with the added danger of a blow out if the coupler ever became disconnected since there would no longer be a pressure relief valve in action. Personally, I wouldn't do it.
Now getting back to the tank shape, you could certainly play around with that. I think I'd go up before I'd go wider, just so it doesn't encroach on the space needed to install and remove the pump.
Another thing to pay a bunch of attention to are the relative displacements and ratios of the blower motors and the pump + step-up gear. At PTO speed, the flow needs to result in the auger and fan operating at sufficient speed to throw the snow far enough. I have no idea what the required speeds are, but you can probably infer it from the various motor and pump sizes used in the Erskine product. Or if you buy a different skid steer blower, look at the required flow rate. I'd target the upper quartile of the flow range. From that you can figure out a pump size for the PTO, taking the step-up gearing into consideration.
Good luck, and keep us posted on how you make out.
