Small engine oil?

[dodge man]

Not another oil thread! I did a search and didn’t see it addressed. What do people do for small engine oil? It used to be straight 30 weight was called for but that seems outdated these days. I found some small engine 10w-30 Walmart branded oil and bought a couple of quarts. Is just regular synthetic 10w-30 ok, that seems like what I’ll probably start using.

Edit, the stuff I got at Walmart is straight 30 weight.

 

[mjonesnh]

Not another oil thread! I did a search and didn’t see it addressed. What do people do for small engine oil? It used to be straight 30 weight was called for but that seems outdated these days. I found some small engine 10w-30 Walmart branded oil and bought a couple of quarts. Is just regular synthetic 10w-30 ok, that seems like what I’ll probably start using.

All my air cooled engines spec either 30w or 10w-30 conventional or 5w-30 synthetic with the exception of my Honda Rancher that says 10w-40. With that said I went to 1 oil for all the air cooled engines. Rotella T6 5w-40 years ago. Never a problem with this oil and easier starting in cold weather. In fact, just purchased a new inverter generator 3 weeks ago and after break- in of 5 hours I changed it to the Rotella T6. If I was using a gasoline rated oil I would probably go with 5w-30 or 10-30 synthetic, likely Mobil 1.

 

[kevinj]

Mine all get the same 15w40 that goes in the tractors.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Mine specs 20w-50 synthetic for summer temps

 

[RandyT]

@dodge man Regular oil is fine and doesn't require synthetic. Lawnmower oil is formulated to operate at higher temps than regular auto oil, and also contains a higher zinc content due to the flat tappets.

 

[nyone]

I have a Toyota that specs 0w20 oil, so I put that in. Any diesel gets 15w40. My suburban would be expensive to replace so it gets the 5w30 it wants and so every other engine i own gets 5w30. Generally gas engines especially small ones will be totally fine with 5w30.

For me the $2 synthetic costs its not worth stocking conventional for a few small engines. I typically like to keep about 2+ yrs of oil changes on hand for every vehicle. I own 14 things that have a seat and you can drive.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I run Amsoil 10W-30/30 in all our small engine equipment.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-10w-30-100-synthetic-small-engine-oil-ase/

They have a 10W-40 as well

 

[dodge man]

I was running the Amsoil and got off that treadmill after I retired. Good oil but not worth the extra cost and the membership fees.

 

[gstrom99]

@dodge man Regular oil is fine and doesn't require synthetic. Lawnmower oil is formulated to operate at higher temps than regular auto oil, and also contains a higher zinc content due to the flat tappets.

Where do you find "lawnmower" oil? Straight 30w "reduces oil consumption" per my JD zero turn manual. I usually add zink also.

 

[tomplum]

My 2 cents. Don't put additives in your oil for the long run. You don't know how it will effect the additive package of the main oil.

Some air cooled engine oils are high in zinc, others are not. When reviewing JD branded oil data sheets a while back, they had changed their blend away from zinc. Oil tech is constantly evolving.

A general quality of synthetic oil is that it it handles heat better than conventional oils. But back when Kohler had a name you could pronounce, they would point out that air cooled engine oils could be advantageous over automotive synthetic oils.

Straight grade oils are also accepted to handle heat better. As a rule, it is also thought that the narrower the range that the oil is also more thermally stable. IE 15W30 more so than a 5W30. Something to consider for high risk applications.

I use synthetic air cooled engine oil in my shop. All the above thought to be true, it is still rare to see a catastrophic lubrication failure in OPE in equipment that is reasonably maintained.

 

[dstig1]

Agreed. Overthinking it (seems to be a common trait amongst us TBNers ). The manuals usually show 10W30 or 40 and 5W30 for use in colder temps. Or some variant like that. Changing the oil once in a while is more important than the exact oil used (within reason).

Can't say I've ever heard of special lawnmower oil, but then they seem to be creating a special oil for everything these days...

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I change oil annually. That amounts to every 50 hours

 

[jkmfarmer]

Dodgeman - I think 40-50 yrs ago, 30 weight non-detergent was the 'small engine' oil of choice. The thought behind it seemed to be that small engines at that time did not have a filter and the dirt would end up in the bottom of the engine and drain out with the oil. Then detergent oil came along and carried dirt particles - to a filter. And now, a number of small engines have filters, and oil has changed too. So maybe that way of thinking is past. I'm not sure....

 

[IH3444]

Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic. Flows like a 10w regular oil at start up and contains high zinc additive for flat camshaft lifters for older V8 classic car engines, as well as for air cooled engine flat tappet camshaft lifters. Easy to purchase at Walmart. 5-quart jug.

 

[big bubba]

Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic. Flows like a 10w regular oil at start up and contains high zinc additive for flat camshaft lifters for older V8 classic car engines, as well as for air cooled engine flat tappet camshaft lifters. Easy to purchase at Walmart. 5-quart jug.

curious...if a 10w flow at start up, why is it not designated as such at 15/50 rating...having said, that product is ideal for my zero turn hydraulics. regards

 

[nyone]

I was running the Amsoil and got off that treadmill after I retired. Good oil but not worth the extra cost and the membership fees.

Generally with small engines your going to wear out the other components or have fuel problems way before a oil related issue. I wouldnt be spending big bucks on oil for a $300 engine either.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

****, my motor is $3500

 

[Shawn T. W.]

"Small engine" to me means like a lawn mower ... Or such.

Yesterday I changed to oil in my semi-trash pump ... I used 5-30 I picked up at the truck stop for free*!

When I bought the pump, it came with a bottle of Generac labeled 30 weight oil ...

*I get "fuel points" at the truck stops when I buy fuel for my boss, usually get from 1- 7 points per gallon of fuel pumped, depending on how much fuel I pumped the previous month, or in the same month, as it depends on each chains "promotion" ... I then can "spend" those points in the store ... So the points don't really cost me anything, and I get stuff that I can use!

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Well my mower engine is $3500

 

[IH3444]

curious...if a 10w flow at start up, why is it not designated as such at 15/50 rating...having said, that product is ideal for my zero turn hydraulics. regards

Fully synthetic oils flow better at low temperatures than conventional oils. 5 points lower. Plus, with the 15w-50 rating an air cooled engine has the protection of a 50 rating in the hotter months of the year. The added zinc in Mobil 1 15w-50 helps lubricate flat top tappets better than just oil.

Lower volatility and higher viscosity stability

Full synthetic motor oil flow characteristics at low temperature verse conventional motor oil​

Full synthetic motor oil typically exhibits lower volatility and higher viscosity stability at low temperatures compared to conventional motor oil. This means that full synthetic oil flows more quickly in cold conditions, allowing for better lubrication of engine components upon startup. The Viscosity Index (VI) of full synthetic oil is often higher, which indicates that its viscosity does not significantly change with temperature fluctuations. This stability is particularly beneficial in cold climates, where synthetic oils can provide better cold flow characteristics and protection against wear. Conventional motor oil, on the other hand, may take longer to flow in cold temperatures and can be more susceptible to thickening, which can lead to reduced lubrication and potential engine damage.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/synthetic-oil-31800