Small Post-Framed Barn Construction: Opinions Welcome!

Clintock

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Silas, AL
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I went with 10’ tin. That gave me an overhang of around 16”. Don’t run your ladden or rafters all the way out to end of tin. Water will run uphill. Keep about 4-6” of tin running wild. You’ll have all kinds of suggestions. Best thing is to figure out the most cost effective for what you’re doing but still be structurally sound.
Just a tip. Tin comes in different gauges. Don’t skimp out on the thin stuff.
 

KennyG

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Jan 13, 2011
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SW Michigan
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Kenny - are you talking about the 4 Center posts? Those are my Center line for the roof. Basically it’s a 10’ deep by 24’ wide enclosed goat barn, and a 5’ by 24’ overhang out front.

I am going to Center the ridge board on those posts, so I’ll have a 4/12 10’ span on one side, and an 8/12 5’ span on the other side.

I'm really referring to the center two posts and the cross beams. With a ridge board and collar ties, the roof doesn't need any other support. I guess you are using this primarily for animals. Not having those two inside posts would give you full flexibility to build out pens. I suppose that's academic now, it's certainly a very strong structure and would support a lot of overhead weight.
 

metalbender

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Wow, just in time. I'll be keeping an eye on this one. A hail storm shredded my Shelterlogic tent shed. Having a 12x22 open ended post and metal shed built. Can't believe how expensive it will be.
 

newbury

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From Vt, in Va, retiring to MS
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-Located eastern NC, no snow loads
What about ice?
I HAD a 20'x40' metal "carport" located in Mississippi that had been standing for probably 20 years at least. In 10 years the deepest snow we had gotten was 4".
Then last winter we got back to back ice storms, I now have a lot of twisted metal and a 20x40 brick paved open parking lot.
Make sure you have enough slope so you can't get buildup.
 
  
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UOFan

UOFan

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Aug 20, 2021
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NC
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JD 3025E
I'm really referring to the center two posts and the cross beams. With a ridge board and collar ties, the roof doesn't need any other support. I guess you are using this primarily for animals. Not having those two inside posts would give you full flexibility to build out pens. I suppose that's academic now, it's certainly a very strong structure and would support a lot of overhead weight.

Yes, I basically overbuilt to this because I wasn't worried too much about overall cost...although its piling up! We wanted three smaller (8x10) pens and the covered area out front. The idea is the animals can still be gated and have a roof overhead to protect from the sun/rain, but can hang out in the fresh air! If I were to build it for storage, I would have not included the two center 6x6 posts.

Or better yet, basic roof trusses..... cheaper, faster, done.

The main reason I didn't consider trusses is because I wanted some hands-on experience with rafters. Cost and time are not huge factors in this project, because it is more for fun and getting some more experience. But you're right...definitely woulda been easier..

Wow, just in time. I'll be keeping an eye on this one. A hail storm shredded my Shelterlogic tent shed. Having a 12x22 open ended post and metal shed built. Can't believe how expensive it will be.

A lot more expensive than I thought it would be. $500 in dirt for leveling....way too much on hardware (bolts, anchors, nails and Simpson post brackets). Not to mention the lumber.

What about ice?
I HAD a 20'x40' metal "carport" located in Mississippi that had been standing for probably 20 years at least. In 10 years the deepest snow we had gotten was 4".
Then last winter we got back to back ice storms, I now have a lot of twisted metal and a 20x40 brick paved open parking lot.
Make sure you have enough slope so you can't get buildup.

That's a good point...I haven't experienced any ice storms here in the past three years, so fingers crossed. The slope will be 4/12 on the back side, and 8/12 on the front of the roof (overhang area).
 
  
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UOFan

UOFan

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JD 3025E
I went with 10’ tin. That gave me an overhang of around 16”. Don’t run your ladden or rafters all the way out to end of tin. Water will run uphill. Keep about 4-6” of tin running wild. You’ll have all kinds of suggestions. Best thing is to figure out the most cost effective for what you’re doing but still be structurally sound.
Just a tip. Tin comes in different gauges. Don’t skimp out on the thin stuff.

Noted regarding the 4-6" of wild tin. That's a good idea, and i'll roll with that.
 

pmsmechanic

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Southern Alberta, Canada
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Noted regarding the 4-6" of wild tin. That's a good idea, and i'll roll with that.
In our area we would never do that. Tin is fastened securely right to the outside edges usually with edge trim. One years worth of wind would have the wild tin ripped to shreds. We also don't use nails for the same reason. Special tin screws only.
 

marhar

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Apr 5, 2013
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Denton NC
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Farm Trac 60
I went with 10’ tin. That gave me an overhang of around 16”. Don’t run your ladden or rafters all the way out to end of tin. Water will run uphill. Keep about 4-6” of tin running wild. You’ll have all kinds of suggestions. Best thing is to figure out the most cost effective for what you’re doing but still be structurally sound.
Just a tip. Tin comes in different gauges. Don’t skimp out on the thin stuff.
You are spot on when you say! Water will run uphill. I found out the hard way on a barn roof. Next time I will stop the wood 4 to 6 inches back and for added protection I will attach a drip edge to the end of the rafters.
 

JWR

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A goat barn ... now you tell us ! I was going to say no matter the size you never build big enough but goat barns ?? I have no feel for that.
 
 
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