Snow plow, Frame mount, Front lift

[JB4310]

I started another thread about my snow plow project in the custom forum, that thread emphasized the loader being used to lift the plow.

This thread is about the frame mount and the front lift aspect.

Once I got the frame mount and tried the plow on with the loader lift, I realized the plow fit the tractor nicely and would be great to have an independent lift frame mounted on the front.

Both parts of this project were fairly easy, just took a bit of head scratching to keep it simple but effective.

The sub frame is a compact stubby set up that is made up of the original truck part that the plow pinned to. Just welded it to 2 short 1/2" plates bolted to existing frame holes behind the grill guard brackets, there were spacers there already so that was to easy. The plates are fastened with 4 x1/2" G8 bolts in a 4" square pattern.
Reinforced the outer edges with 3/8 plate. I know it looks to simple, with no rearward braces like most sub-frames would have but I think it should OK, I may put a reinforcement pc across the back between the 2 down plates. The sub-frame can stay on as it doesn't interfere with anything including loader attachment.

I'm not new to snow plowing, I had plowed commercially for 20+ years. So I know the forces involved and how things can break, that's where I got most of my welding experience over the years. But this is a 32HP machine traveling at 5-10 MPH down a driveway not a 300 HP truck going 20-30 mph across a parking lot.

The lift assembly is also so simple I'm questioning it's ability to get the job done myself but appears to very sturdy with almost zero deflection of the components when plow is lifted. plus no tools needed!!! I put 2 holes in the mounting plates thru the weight bracket in case fasteners were needed but this thing doesn't move, even driving fast over rough terrain. of course using the loader valve for all functions.

Parts list; upright frame is a 2"x3"x1/4" tube, the lift arm is a 2x2 thick wall also, a couple of pcs of 3/8 plate, a TSC lift cylinder and a 1/2 bolt.

JB.

 

[JB4310]

Some more pics,

Can go from the front loader to an independent front plow hook-up in the time it takes to swap 4 hydraulic lines, install 2 push pins and hang a chain on a grab hook. Hands will get a little dirty from the hyd fluid but no tools required!!!

Cost around $400. more than half of that just for Hydraulic lines and paint. had the plow already.

Don't be shy to point out any weakness's you see in this set-up, it can only help me to get it right before the snow flies.

Thanks, JB.

 

[Duffster]

Looks nice!

It could use some stacking stops and a crossover releif valve.

 

[JB4310]

Looks nice!

It could use some stacking stops and a crossover relief valve.

What are stacking stops? Something to prevent the plow from raising to high and hitting the cylinder?

If so that's a good idea and would eliminate the need for the limiter chain I had to fix to the weight bracket when I was lifting it with the loader.

As far as the relief valve, I've never had one before on my old plows but I hear all the talk about them now.

I've shown this pic before of a loader mounted plow that could of benefited from some relief!

JB.

 

[Duffster]

What are stacking stops? Something to prevent the plow from raising to high and hitting the cylinder?

Exactly.

I've shown this pic before of a loader mounted plow that could of benefited from some relief!

Ouch!

 

[Gizmo2]

Exactly.

I did not know they were called stacking stops. Learned the need for these the hard way!

 

[JB4310]

I did not know they were called stacking stops. Learned the need for these the hard way!
View attachment 145778

I can't tell by your picture is there damage there? At first I thought your mast was bent but I see you made it curved.

I'm working on my stops right now it's gonna kill 3 birds with 1 stone, I'll post some pics when finished.

JB.

 

[Gizmo2]

I can't tell by your picture is there damage there? At first I thought your mast was bent but I see you made it curved.
JB.

No, damage was done 20 years ago when this plow and frame was on my JD650. I didn't know what I didn't know when I made the frame and blade 20 years ago, all was good until I ran the blade up high on a snow pile.

 

[PILOON]

Re: crossover relief valve

As the name suggests, the design is a relief valve that has 4 ports.
L and RT in plus L and RT out.
If ,say, the RT is subjected to excessive pressure, the valve opens and dumps the fluid into the left side circuit.
Each circuit has its own valve (adjustable) and dumps over to the other circuit.

However, this only protects the extended corner of the plow (like bumping up to a brick wall or curb).
Since the retracted (closest blade corner to the vehicle) side is already tucked in close, it has nowhere to go and the vehicle still gets the brunt of the shock load.
So, driving along curling snow off to the right side (curb side) and catching a curb will offer no protection.
Plowing snow AWAY from a curb WILL offer protection if you catch a curb.

I don't see the value of a crossover relief on rural/farm applications as the protection is rather limited.
City paved and curbed parking lots I could see, or situations that call for total 'down to the pavement curbed drives'-OK.

 

[Ductape]

Looks good to me. Problem I see using the loader for lift is loss of visibility. I think you'll like it much better this way.

 

[Steve C]

Some more pics,

Can go from the front loader to an independent front plow hook-up in the time it takes to swap 4 hydraulic lines, install 2 push pins and hang a chain on a grab hook. Hands will get a little dirty from the hyd fluid but no tools required!!!

Cost around $400. more than half of that just for Hydraulic lines and paint. had the plow already.

Don't be shy to point out any weakness's you see in this set-up, it can only help me to get it right before the snow flies.

Thanks, JB.

Very nice. If you are going to be plowing unpaved areas I would add some slip shoes to it to hold the cutting edge above the surface being plowed. I saw them at our local tractor supply for around $10 each. I am going to add them to my rear mounted blade.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Nice job! The only thing I see is that with the rear mount being high it tips the blade foreward making the blade tripp easier. You might be able to tighten the springs to get away from this problem.
Bill

 

[JB4310]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions,

I did install some stops built out of 2x3x1/4" angle iron, now the plow edge will not rise more than ~21 inches. That would only occur with the plow riding up a snow bank or if using the loader to lift not when using the front mount lift. Thanks Duffster.

I'm not going to put a crossover valve for now.

As far as the shoes go, I never used them when plowing for customers, of course that was 90% paved areas. I've got at least 3 pairs of those skid shoes laying around my shed, My yard now is half unpaved so I do some raking in the spring, I just go carefully before it freezes, I have packed process down so it doesn't really dig in to bad anyway.

As far as the plow angle goes, I am a little concerned about that myself, I wanted to keep the frame mount high on the tractor so it could stay there and not interfere with ground clearance, right now the plows hook up pins are 14 inches off the ground, not sure what is average for truck mount but probably a little less.

I'm trying to make this idiot proof and bomb proof within reason. I already had to reinforce the bottom edge of the plate hanger as I was stress testing the stops using the lift cylinder and found some weakness in the plates when just hanging there with no bolts. this stress would not occur under normal use, only happened cause I short choked the chain with the plow up on a block. I may have to/want to use the 2 thru bolts for the hanger though, not a big deal.

JB.

 

[PILOON]

Nice job! The only thing I see is that with the rear mount being high it tips the blade foreward making the blade tripp easier. You might be able to tighten the springs to get away from this problem.
Bill

Having driven plow trucks and doing a similar install on my CUT (loader arm lift setup) I could add that you have essentially made for a down push which as the blade loads up will lighten the steering
Great for scrapeing icy buildups, but not so good pushing a snow loaded blade.
If not to late, lower the pivot points to keep the push arms parallel to the ground.
You could simply weld 2 short arms to the frame or alternately weld them to the plow a-frame arms.
But it is essential to have the A-frame parallel to the ground!
Also doing so will then place the blade at the correct angle of attack.

 

[beenthere]

On my setup, the A-frame is level with the ground. Did that by raising the ears on the A-frame where the connecting pins are located. That way, the hitch on the tractor doesn't have to be lowered.

 

[GT2]

I know very little about plows.
Is it necessary to have the "up" function float? IE the plow hung from a chain?
You couldn't have the up and down ram pined to the lift mechanism?

 

[Duffster]

Thanks Duffster.

No problemo.

I know very little about plows.
Is it necessary to have the "up" function float? IE the plow hung from a chain?

No it is not necessary.

You couldn't have the up and down ram pined to the lift mechanism?

Yes you could, then it would have down pressure and if valved correctly it could still float too.

 

[JB4310]

Well that's an aspect I gave little thought to, it's now obvious to me, the angle of the A-frame and the critical role it plays in how the load is applied back to the plow vehicle.

Mine is not level and is angled down forward as mentioned. Not a radical angle but definitely not level. HOPE it's not gonna lighten the front end to much. I'll post some side view pics so all can see the angle. If necessary I would raise the ears on the A-frame like beenthere did, then I'll have to redo the new stops, oh well.
It would be to much work to lower the mounting frame, plus it would weaken this simple 2 point mount which gets it's strength from it's short stout stature.
Today I installed a cross brace between the 2 down plates of the frame mount, a 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8".

Trying out the loader lift option, no further need for the limiter chain with the stops.

Thanks again, JB.

 

[JB4310]

I know very little about plows.
Is it necessary to have the "up" function float? IE the plow hung from a chain?
You couldn't have the up and down ram pined to the lift mechanism?

For snow work you do need the plow to be able to float up and down to follow the contour of the ground, so even if you did have a solid link between lift and plow, 99% of the time you would be using the float position on your loader valve.
The advantage of the solid link is as mentioned, the ability to apply down pressure when needed.

When I first used my loader for snow work, I didn't realize I had a float detent on the loader valve and man I was miserable trying to manually adjust bucket height on the fly. Once I found the float function that was what I needed and almost every pass is in float.
Unless you have a very high skill level with loader control, float is pretty much a necessity for snow work IMO.

JB.

 

[BWBrown]

Quote:
Originally Posted by GT2 View Post
You couldn't have the up and down ram pined to the lift mechanism?

Yes you could, then it would have down pressure and if valved correctly it could still float too.



While the above answer is exactly technically correct, experience has shown me:

1) The valve based float function, used in cold winter temperatures does not allow a lot of movement in the typically small CUT FEL lines combined with cold, less viscous hydraulic fluid. (my Bush Hog brand oem lines are 1/4") I find it usseful in the summer, but not in the cold.

2) A non floating snow plow will spend 99% of its time either digging or missing.

A chain, or a cylinder with long slotted ears on one end will allow a reasonable amount of floating action. I always look to proven designs before I try to "fix it."
Bob