Snow removal combo needs help

JohnnyMX · Jan 20, 2022

My house sits at the end of a flat 1/2 mile drive with a rather large gravel parking area near the house. We get a fair amount of drift and some parts don't have large areas to pile snow. Normally it takes as long to plow the drive as it does to clear the parking area. We currently plow everything with an RTV900 and front plow. When it gets deep or really heavy this combo struggles. I do have the MX5400 and front bucket but that is painful to push back banks the length of the driveway. We just got 12-14" this past week and I spent the better part of the day clearing snow. I had to plow in increments. If we ever get a once in a XX years storm I think I have no real way to handle it other than the tractor and bucket.

We started with a combination of free/available equipment and since I've purchased the tractor. I don't want to duplicate my tools, but what would your first choice be if I had to could add one more tool to the mix to handle the banks and larger storms. If there is a better way to use what I have that works too.

oldnslo · Jan 20, 2022

snow blower is best tool for eliminating banks if have a place to blow snow away from buildings - windows.

Thomas · Jan 20, 2022

Front blower rear scraper blade.

TractorTYMe · Jan 20, 2022

How high are your drifts, just asking for difference of practicality between open rear face vs inverted snowblower? I don't have much drifts to worry about, but an inverted snowblower can take care of 1.5-2 feet dept snow. This is my setup.

hube2 · Jan 20, 2022

Have to agree with the blower. I live in a place where the wind and drifts are bad. I use my bucket mostly for knocking down snow banks and rifts that are too high for my blower to get through. I have a rear blower because I need to have my bucket and switching them out would be a PITA. Anyway, living here I go out of my way to never ever pile snow because that just makes the drifts harder to deal with as the winter progresses. A lot of people do not like rear facing blowers, but when you also need the bucket and don't want to waste time switching it out it's the only choice. A rear blower is also much less expensive than a front.

leonz · Jan 20, 2022

JohnnyMX said:
My house sits at the end of a flat 1/2 mile drive with a rather large gravel parking area near the house. We get a fair amount of drift and some parts don't have large areas to pile snow. Normally it takes as long to plow the drive as it does to clear the parking area. We currently plow everything with an RTV900 and front plow. When it gets deep or really heavy this combo struggles. I do have the MX5400 and front bucket but that is painful to push back banks the length of the driveway. We just got 12-14" this past week and I spent the better part of the day clearing snow. I had to plow in increments. If we ever get a once in a XX years storm I think I have no real way to handle it other than the tractor and bucket.

We started with a combination of free/available equipment and since I've purchased the tractor. I don't want to duplicate my tools, but what would your first choice be if I had to could add one more tool to the mix to handle the banks and larger storms. If there is a better way to use what I have that works too.

The only thing I would recommend is a motorized snow thrower for your
RTV900 since you already have a winch on the RTV specifically because
of your need for simplicity in operation and snow clearing ability as it could
be mounted on the front loader with a longer control cable and use it equally
well on the RTV900.

There are number of 2 stage snow blower brands and models for sale, but
in saying that they have many, many, more parts for their drive systems and
require more horsepower to use and will weigh more.

The mk martin folks offer 2 single stage snow thrower models that attach to an SSQR
plate. You would need an adapter hitch to use it on your RTV 900, I am sure they are
available for sale though.

A single stage snow blower is not a complicated piece of equipment to use or own as it has
a simple final drive system using a roller chain drive and 2 sprockets.
The snow blower rotor spins at a very high rate of speed and discharges the snow through
the chute at a very high speed to get rid of it.

The 2 models of single stage snow blowers offered for sale by mk martin employ a honda
GX390 engine to provide the torque needed to create the centrifugal force needed to spin
the dual drive belts that are connected to the drive sprocket that spins the roller chain that
spins the larger driven sprocket that is attached to the snow thrower rotor.

The snow blower rotor and the driven sprocket are supported by two open bearings flange
bearings that are bolted to the side weldments of the snow thrower.

The only things I would change with either of these snow throwers offered by mk martin are
1. change the fuel jet for a much larger one
2. replace the muffler with a catalytic converter
3. purchase a set of armor skids to mount on the skid bars

The engine exhaust will be blowing around in front of you and that is why I suggest that you
invest in a catalytic converter for the GX390 engine.

I had a GX390 on my Timberwolf TW5-FC commercial wood splitter and the fumes made
me very sick even after warming up the engine and 25 gallons of hydraulic oil with my
space heater for over an hour.

The Foley Engines catalytic converter I had on the honda 390 engine I had converted the
exhaust to carbon dioxide and water vapor and had almost no odor to speak of.

The prices I had for these 2 models of single stage snow blower are almost three years old
so you would have to call an mk martin dealer for the current 2021-22 prices for these units.

The S1054E model weighs 470 pounds and has a 48 inch cutting width.
The S1060E weighs 545 pounds and has a 53 inch cutting width.

Both models use a 16 inch snow blower rotor with 4 center paddles welded to the snow blower
rotor to lift and throw the broken up snowpack through the chute at 750 RPM.

==========================================================================
Edit today: 21, January 2022
I neglected to add that the two models of Single Stage Snow Throwers use a 12 volt electric clutch for the V belt drive.
==========================================================================

=========================================================
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with mk martin or have any financial or ownership interest
in mk martin.
=========================================================

JohnnyMX · Jan 20, 2022

TractorTYMe said:
How high are your drifts, just asking for difference of practicality between open rear face vs inverted snowblower? I don't have much drifts to worry about, but an inverted snowblower can take care of 1.5-2 feet dept snow. This is my setup.
View attachment 730093

Nomally not more than 1.5 - 2 ' at the worst. I mean we haven't had a 5' storm in a while, but I am also not wanting to have to buy anything else if we do get one. The front facing looks good for the majority of what I clear.

Jims1025R · Jan 20, 2022

As long as your tractor is a hydrostatic transmission, I like blade on the front, and three point blower on the back. Rear blowers were less desirable with manual transmission, but the hydrostat lets you make the most of it. With the blade on the front, you plow quickly, and pile up snow as you need to. With the blower on the back, you can handle most drifts in the first pass, and blow away the snow you piled with the blade.

I was not initially keen on the quick attach blades for the loaders, but I admit, that because JD sells them (so it is an intended use for my loader) I saw the other benefits, and I'm very happy with the one I bought. You can quickly swap it for the bucket, if it's needed to bucket snow away. But I have not had to, the blade stacks high if I need to, and the blower blows away anything with patience.

I did try plowing with my Polaris 6x6. It worked for light snow, but not drifts. In general I very much prefer the tractor for moving snow.

nyone · Jan 21, 2022

How does the rtv900 struggle? Traction? If so how much weight do you have in the bed and have you considered tire chains?

nybirdman · Jan 21, 2022

A lot of us have used and old truck plow and Skid Steer plate(if you have a quick attach loader) for snow removal.I have maybe $300 in mine.Been using it for ten years.

JohnnyMX · Jan 24, 2022

The RTV handles the vast majority of my snowfalls. I get into issues where it all hits overnite or it just keeps falling and the banks build up. It doesn't seem to want to push snow that deep for a mile. I do have chains that I put on when it gets really bad. For the most part, this option is working. Anything I add to the arsenal would be either to handle the LARGE storms, banks or in general to speed up the operation. I do not tend to add weight to the RTV. I don't know how much I'd need to add to be significant.

nyone · Jan 25, 2022

JohnnyMX said:
The RTV handles the vast majority of my snowfalls. I get into issues where it all hits overnite or it just keeps falling and the banks build up. It doesn't seem to want to push snow that deep for a mile. I do have chains that I put on when it gets really bad. For the most part, this option is working. Anything I add to the arsenal would be either to handle the LARGE storms, banks or in general to speed up the operation. I do not tend to add weight to the RTV. I don't know how much I'd need to add to be significant.

With a few hundred pound plow out front I would expect to add that much to the bed. Some weight and chains can really really help.

If your banks are closing in you didnt push them back for enough in the beginning of the season.

JohnnyMX · Jan 25, 2022

I'll try to add some weight and give it another go with the chains on. The same machine is used to haul garbage and recycling each week, so there is a fine line of adding weight and having to remove anything if a kid or father in-law is going to do me the favor of taking it down or picking it up. Maybe something that is low in the bed and not too tall would work.

joeyd · Jan 25, 2022

I have 400+ feet for a driveway plus a good size parking area. I have tried an atv with 5' blade, tractor with bucket and back blade, tractor, bucket and rear blower and now front blade with rear blower followed by atv with 5' blade to polish things off. I really like the tractor with front blade and rear blower.

Fxfymn413 · Jan 26, 2022

JohnnyMX said:
The RTV handles the vast majority of my snowfalls. I get into issues where it all hits overnite or it just keeps falling and the banks build up. It doesn't seem to want to push snow that deep for a mile

If you are waiting for the snow to stop before you plow that may be one reason you are having issues. As Meyer used to put on every blade you have to plow with the storm. I try to get out every 4 inches or so and I make sure that I am always thinking about where I am going to put the next storm. I do have the advantage of a bigger machine, but I always push the banks back as far as I can and if I push into a pile I use the blade to stack it so I have room for the next one. When plowing the street I clear each side first and push it as far back as I can and then move the middle to each side.

Speed is also your friend when plowing a long driveway/road. If you can move fast the blade will cast the snow further and spread it out more as well. It is also helpful to wax the mold board so the snow does not stick or in a pinch spray it with cooking spray.

Blowers are great, but they are also costly and it sounds like you don't want to make a big investment. If you really want to make a change I'd say the least expensive option you have would be to look for a used blade to mount to the Kubota. I paid $400.00 for a 9' Meyers blade a couple of years ago for example. My set up involves removing the loader so I can mount the blade directly on the tractor, but you could also go the quick attach plate/loader route. Even if you have to pay someone to do the mount you should be able to get in for under $2k.

JohnnyMX · Jan 26, 2022

joeyd said:
I have 400+ feet for a driveway plus a good size parking area. I have tried an atv with 5' blade, tractor with bucket and back blade, tractor, bucket and rear blower and now front blade with rear blower followed by atv with 5' blade to polish things off. I really like the tractor with front blade and rear blower.

That combo feels like it would be about perfect, I wish it was a bit cheaper of an option

JohnnyMX · Jan 26, 2022

Fxfymn413 said:
If you are waiting for the snow to stop before you plow that may be one reason you are having issues. As Meyer used to put on every blade you have to plow with the storm. I try to get out every 4 inches or so and I make sure that I am always thinking about where I am going to put the next storm. I do have the advantage of a bigger machine, but I always push the banks back as far as I can and if I push into a pile I use the blade to stack it so I have room for the next one. When plowing the street I clear each side first and push it as far back as I can and then move the middle to each side.

Speed is also your friend when plowing a long driveway/road. If you can move fast the blade will cast the snow further and spread it out more as well. It is also helpful to wax the mold board so the snow does not stick or in a pinch spray it with cooking spray.

Blowers are great, but they are also costly and it sounds like you don't want to make a big investment. If you really want to make a change I'd say the least expensive option you have would be to look for a used blade to mount to the Kubota. I paid $400.00 for a 9' Meyers blade a couple of years ago for example. My set up involves removing the loader so I can mount the blade directly on the tractor, but you could also go the quick attach plate/loader route. Even if you have to pay someone to do the mount you should be able to get in for under $2k.

I don't generally wait until it is done snowing, UNLESS it is snowing overnight and it is just the first time after I go out. I suppose it is cheaper to set an alarm to go out at 3AM, but this still doesn't help me in the MASS snowfall or if I go away for a weekend and return to a large volume that has been sitting. I can't just run away that easy in the winter as no one else in the house is capable (or willing) to take this on.

I'll try the cooking spray though and give it some more gas. I generally have to plow right down the middle and then back up the middle and then repeated passes to push the banks. I did push them pretty far out this time, but it also took forever and when pushing that much I need to watch my trans temps on the RTV. I do believe that added weight and putting the chains back on will help there so I will do that as well.

I'm all about optimizing what I have, but I know in a really bad storm I'm left with only the bucket on the tractor at this moment.

JohnnyMX · Jan 26, 2022

I don't know if a rear blade with the weight of the tractor may push more and possibly help push banks back better. Has anyone ever mounted a rear blade off the FEL? Is that a bad idea? At least I'd have a blade for other purposed. Not sure if the force on the loader arms or distance the blade hangs off would be a issue or not.

nybirdman · Jan 26, 2022

I run a used truck on the FEL(skid steer QA) maybe have $300 in it and a heavy rear blade(updated since picture) a Landpride 6'.

JohnnyMX · Jan 26, 2022

My issue is how many machines, attachments vs. cost and time to clear. My setup now will handle most snowfalls as long as I don't let it build up too much. Even then I can get the RTV to plow and use the tractor/bucket for snowbanks pushing banks. The issue there is pushing banks up/down a half mile drive takes a long time.

The first time we get a 4 footer is going to be an entire day to dig out with the bucket and pray I have enough diesel to do it.