mudcat
Platinum Member
Just do what he wants! When he leaves, do what you want.
So I got a good deal on some trusses...
- Thread starter dholly
- Start date
- Views: 21564
Well, that's done. Here's an early pic of the UN-bonded subpanel when I started hooking things up. NOTE: After the 'inspection', the completed subpanel remains UN-bonded. It was, as they say, a 'rough' inspection but I got my way after dishing out a little edumication. Sometimes I feel like I live in a world full of rocket scientists, other times NOT! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
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Well, yessir, but according to NEC 250-32(b)(2)-(2), wouldn't this [pic] qualify as numerous bonded metallic paths that could create parallel paths with the supply conductors? You did see the shielded coaxial cable, shielded 3-pairs, telephone wiring, alarm wiring yada yada, right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
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Ohh, thank you, that's what I thought. You can keep that information on UN-bonded subpanels if you'd like. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Wass that you say? Well, yes, the subpanel and communication work box ARE bolted to the stud using a common bolt. What do you mean that's no good? HELLO, remember, we have decided that UN-bonded neutral is the way to go... no connection between ground and neutral here! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Wass that you say? Well, yes, the subpanel and communication work box ARE bolted to the stud using a common bolt. What do you mean that's no good? HELLO, remember, we have decided that UN-bonded neutral is the way to go... no connection between ground and neutral here! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
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I brought up a question about wiring a 220v welder plug in THIS thread. Since the probabilty is that I will need a 3-prong receptacle but the possibility exists that I may buy a welder with a 4-prong plug I used #6 3-wire + ground to be prepared. Question was what to do with the white neutral wire when wired for a 3-prong receptacle. The inspector agreed that connecting at the neutral bus in the subpanel and capping the receptacle end with a wire nut would be fine. I'm sure this is second nature to electricians, but it was new info for me, and maybe others.
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I shot myself in the foot. Well, not literally, but originally I decided to do all the grunt work and then just have a licensed electrician come in to spot my work and do the final main panel hookup before the rough inspection. Not real keen on doing the live electrical work personally. But, seems with the price of gas these days, no electrican cares to come out for such a small job within less than 3 weeks, or for a reasonable $$. So I shut off the Main, opened the panel, checked for hot and test fit the 100a breaker. Since I already had the right breaker, I figured I'd give it a go...
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Unfortunately, I quickly realized that the 2/0 AWG 4 wire feed was NOT going to fit into the existing ground and neutral bars. No provision provided for the larger wires, so off to the orange box for some adapter lugs. The lugs bolt under the bonding bar. In the pic, I've removed the left bolt at the grounding bus side.
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Of course, the original bolt was too short to use with the new lug so I scrounged around for some bolts that would fit. Ended up having to shorten up a couple of longer bolts. Here is a pic of the original bolt (center, dark) and the new bolts (before and after) I used. Any concern with dissimilar metals, ie., galvanic corrosion?
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I did get lucky with the feeder conduit. The only place to enter the house left me with a near perfect sweep 90 into the main panel and the romex loops from the other panel were in just the right spot as well. Had to move only one wire slightly. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
