Solder in a stripped zerk???

[Gary Fowler]

Zerks come in different thread sizes. Most folks would simply retap the hole one size up and put a new zerk in.

That is what I have done on stripped threads in my bush hog tail wheel. I wouldn't go heating up a backhoe pin to weld in a replaceable zerk. Are you sure the pin threads are stripped and not just the zerk. Most times the zerk is the softer of the two. You may just need to retap the hole but it is pretty easy to just tap it to the next size zerk fitting.

 

[Egon]

Give the solder a try. Pull the pin, clean all the grease off the threads and zerk, put some flux on the thread and apply gentle heat plus solder to the pin area around the zerk. Should get hot enough to draw in some solder. If it doesn't work no loss.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

 

[2ndhalf]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

Funny, was thinking of the same thing. I have heard JB Weld will set so hard it can be drilled and tapped; haven't tried it but i have used in on a lot of things and it is amazing.

 

[the old grind]

If you start with a nut whose thread matches your zerk, you should get by with just welding the nut and putting in the new fitting. Lacking a nut that matches your zerk's thread, look for a coupling in 1/16" NPT pipe size (~1/4" thread dia), cut/weld half on and add zerk.

Not all 'simple' remedies are that simple. What Mark said ...some zerks look threaded but aren't, and are just pressed in (eg: ZTR front spindles) vs threaded. Some are collinear with pins, even recessed and tough to replace. Some can't be re-tapped for w/o removing a pin (OP's for one ? ..)

Brazing used to be called 'hard-soldering'. 'Old' MAPP was barely hot enough, 'new' isn't (post 2008?) I use acetylene or carbon arc torch (40 amp, runs on 110v) to braze, but would rather weld this for then not having to heat up as much metal mass around the work. t o g.

 

[Big Barn]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

I have a proper installation tool (somewhere . ) but you can use a hammer and small socket to drive it in.

 

[mikester]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

You will never get the gunk out clean enough to get a good solder unless you pull everything apart. At that point it’s just easier to drill and re-tap to the next size up zerk.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I have a proper installation tool (somewhere . ) but you can use a hammer and small socket to drive it in.

View attachment 542604

This.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

Mark, you stole my thunder. That is what I have done in the past.

Ron

 

[fried1765]

Mark, you stole my thunder. That is what I have done in the past.

Ron

It seems that most of the respondents here are missing the most important part of the OP's issue.
He lives in Costa Rica!
He does not have reasonable access to a tap & die set, he does not have a NAPA, or other parts supplier, just down the road a bit.
The drive in zerks are likely the best idea for him.
Now... where should he go to get them?

 

[Sebculb]

It seems that most of the respondents here are missing the most important part of the OP's issue.
He lives in Costa Rica!
He does not have reasonable access to a tap & die set, he does not have a NAPA, or other parts supplier, just down the road a bit.
The drive in zerks are likely the best idea for him.
Now... where should he go to get them?

Thanks Fried!

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Here is a link to amazon, not sure they will deliver there but worth a try. The tool may useful also, the assortment may be the best way to go.

Ron

Amazon.com: grease zerk fittings

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Amazon does serve Costa Rica. Their international division is huge.

Ron

 

[EddieWalker]

It seems that most of the respondents here are missing the most important part of the OP's issue.
He lives in Costa Rica!
He does not have reasonable access to a tap & die set, he does not have a NAPA, or other parts supplier, just down the road a bit.
The drive in zerks are likely the best idea for him.
Now... where should he go to get them?

OOPS!!! You're right. I missed that and didn't think of what's available in Costa Rica. I'm still not a fan of soldering it. I just think that's a waste of time with a scary chance of some of it going all the way through and into the area around the pin.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Soldering will not work.

For decades my low tech solution to a stripped thread has been the same. Bung up the internal threads a bit with a thin center punch. Or bung up the fitting threads a bit with a hammer. Maybe both. Now rig up a socket with a nut inside that allows you to put a lot of force on the fitting at the same time as you turn it. That almost always works.

 

[tcreeley]

I've used these to grease with when the zerk falls off and won't take a new one. - tapered tip that goes on the grease gun- Amazon.com: Plews 5-19 Professional Narrow Needle Nose Dispenser: Automotive

 

[bigtiller]

I thought everyone had grease zerk sockets. I just drive them in with a impact gun. This is the first pics I found on the net, too pricey for me. I didn't pay anywhere near that for mine.

APEX ZE-514 1/2'' Angled Grease Fitting Socket, 7/16'' Hex

And

APEX ZA-314 3/8'' Angled Grease Fitting Socket, 7/16'' Hex

 

[Big Barn]

bigtiller: Not sure if you were referring to my pic or not but



these are "drive in" zerks (not threaded). The 1/4" socket pictured was for driving in with a hammer if a proper drive tool was not available.

 

[bigtiller]

bigtiller: Not sure if you were referring to my pic or not but

View attachment 542868

these are "drive in" zerks (not threaded). The 1/4" socket pictured was for driving in with a hammer if a proper drive tool was not available.

Seeing your socket reminded me of my zerk sockets.