Oil & Fuel some confusion on GC1700 oil requirement.

[AxleHub]

The manual is supposed to be the rulebook. But . . . the rulebook needs a referee this time

My GC1715 manual says oil to use when changing oil recommended to be 10w-30 API CC certified. Sounds good doesn't it? But API CC is supposedly an outdated certification as of 2009 when I look it up on the internet. I didn't find any API CC oils.

I bought some full synthetic Mobil Delvac 1 ESP Diesel engine oil in a 5w-40 with certifications CJ-4 and several other cert. Opinions about this choice as a substitute ???

 

[madhatter]

The manual is supposed to be the rulebook. But . . . the rulebook needs a referee this time

My GC1715 manual says oil to use when changing oil recommended to be 10w-30 API CC certified. Sounds good doesn't it? But API CC is supposedly an outdated certification as of 2009 when I look it up on the internet. I didn't find any API CC oils.

I bought some full synthetic Mobil Delvac 1 ESP Diesel engine oil in a 5w-40 with certifications CJ-4 and several other cert. Opinions about this choice as a substitute ???

Not sure I use AmsOil and this is what they said to use:

Engine - we recommend Heavy duty diesel and marine (AMEQT)

• SAE 15W-40
• API CI-4+/CI-4/CH-4/CF/CF-2/SL/SJ
• ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5, E7
• Global DHD-1
• JASO DH-1
• Mack EO-M, EO-N
• DDC 93K214
• Caterpillar ECF-1A, ECF-2
• Cummins CES 20076, 20077, 20078
• Volvo VDS-2, VDS-3
• MB 228.1, 228.3, 229.1
• MAN 271, 3275
• MTU Type II

Hydraulics Universal tractor and transmission hydraulic fluid ( ATHQT)

Front Diff Same product as the hydraulics ATHQT

Grease for the bearings and loader rams AMSOIL product GLCCR multi-purpose grease NLGI #2

 

[DMW]

I bought some full synthetic Mobil Delvac 1 ESP Diesel engine oil in a 5w-40 with certifications CJ-4 and several other cert. Opinions about this choice as a substitute ???

The oil exceeds your requirements. Should be easier to start in cold weather, and more heat resistant in summer.

 

[AxleHub]

The oil exceeds your requirements. Should be easier to start in cold weather, and more heat resistant in summer.

That was my thought process also. But I've always used conventional oils. So I have a massey gc1715 oil filter but I'm wondering if there is a better filter for full synthetic purposes???

 

[DMW]

The filter as not as important as the oil. Filter should be easily cross-referenced to other manufacturers.

 

[plowhog]

My dealer warned me not to change to synthetic oil during the break in period. Speaking of that, the manual for my GC1710 advises to run full throttle during the break in period. That was a surprise.

 

[Clipse3GT]

My dealer warned me not to change to synthetic oil during the break in period. Speaking of that, the manual for my GC1710 advises to run full throttle during the break in period. That was a surprise.

That is true actually. You want to use break in oil or conventional during break in and run the engine at full rpm not idle. Always moving the rpm range around 1700-2600-2000-3000-2200 rpm, etc... it will allow the piston rings to seat due to the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Too little heat and friction during break in will lead to early engine blow by into the crank case. This is noted in the break in procedure in the manual. I run the snot out of my new engines with varying load at higher rpm to seat the rings whether for the tractor or my race engines.

 

[Clipse3GT]

Coming up on 50 hour service. I will use CJ-4 oil (Rottella T6 5w-40 is excellent, look for reviews and oil analysis on BiTog forums) I also cross referenced the filter. I measured the thread, outside OD, length, width, gasket size and pressure relief valve.

Here is the list of acceptable replacements that I have found in the better brands.

Mobil 1 - M1-103
KN HP-1003
WIX 51360
NAPA 1360

M1 > KN > Wix = NAPA based on many oil filter reviews. The M1 has the best synthetic media surface area followed by KN and Wix = NAPA is a regular cellulose filter at 21 micron.

Here are the OEM specs:

Filter:
H 2.577"
OD 2.685"
Thread 3/4-16
Media: 21 Micron

Gasket:
OD 2.460"
ID 2.2"
Thickness: 0.240"

Oil Bypass Pressure 8-10 psi
FLOW GPM 7-10

 

[Clipse3GT]

Recent 2011 Study on best oil filters...

Oil Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central

AMSOIL, M1, FRAM XTENDGUARD, and ROYAL PURPLE are top filters noted in that study.

M1 & RP are made by Championship labs (very similar overall)

FRAM makes the Fram XG

WIX makes the AMSOIL filter

 

[ray66v]

My dealer warned me not to change to synthetic oil during the break in period. Speaking of that, the manual for my GC1710 advises to run full throttle during the break in period. That was a surprise.

Your dealer is wrong. There is NO need, or requirement, to use mineral oil in these engines, during "the breaking period". That is very old, antiquated thinking.

If you check the specifications for lubricity, between modern mineral oil, and synthetic oils, they are nearly identical today, at normal temperatures. Therefore, your engine will NOT "break" any different with one, or the other.

MF knows people use synthetic oil. Wouldn't you think they would tell you not to, and for how long, if it mattered? And, tell you in writing, in your owners manual? Not simply by way of a pearl of "wisdom", from your dealer? :thumbsup:

Yes, some engines are still built to use a specific type oil for "breaking". This is rarely done anymore. That type of oil is specified, as well as the time frame, and rpm requirements. Many engine manufacturers ship their engines from the factory, with synthetic oil in them. But, how do these engines "break in" on synthetic oil? Just fine. Engines last longer than ever now.

This information is also available in the Q&A section, of any oil manufacturers web site. Or, by sending their customer service department an e-mail.

Switching to synthetic when you do your 50 hour, will not harm your engine. Or, void your warranty. Because, unless it's -40F, or you overheat it, your engine won't even know the difference.

Finally, where are all the members hiding, who have "bad" engines, as a result of failure to heed, unpublished advice from their dealer, and neighbors? Or, how about members, who have suffered warranty issues, as a result of switching to synthetic oil?? :anyone: