Since I can't get tractor which I was about to buy (one year old Kubota M9960 w. FEL) because owner in the last moment decide to keep it I would appreciate your opinion with some possible options and they real value for the new one which most likely I'm going to get.
I went to another dealership looking for used one and they offered me more attractive prices for new machines than my previous quote. Either M8560 or M9960 (Price difference is ~ $6000).
Intended tractor usage is to handle big round bales (just unload them on delivery and load them to the feeder), move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow, move some dirt, fencing, clear some grounds (move stones, old tree parts, etc), dig bigger pond, pallet work, and so on.
I'm not yet to cut grass on my fields (~ 85 workable acres in 6 roughly equal fields) and start baling this year (I think) but most likely will do it starting next season and probably will try to plant some crops in one or two fields. For the hay most likely it's going to be small square bales not big rounds.
Here is the list of my questions:
1. Tires. I can get it with radial Michelin tires or ~ $2400 less with Firestone tires. I'm not anticipating put more than a few hundred hours every year on it. Mostly yard work, some field work and snow cleaning.
Are Michelin rubber really worth that extra $$?
I usually have Michelin tires on my cars and don't regret it but not sure about tractor for intended usage and for resale value later.
Shall I get it with industrial tires and save even more or they traction for the any field work and even dropping round bales will be really bad.
- are the Firestones radials or bias? The Michelins are only worth it if they are radials. We have a combination of Firestone, Goodyear(European Goodyear which are still Goodyear, not Titan with Goodyear name), And Titan. They are all vastly superior to our previous bias ply tires.
2. Cast centres - I'll take it for sure
- a must for this tractor
3. Loaded rear tires?
- we don't have a dealer within 100 miles that can handle filled tires and we don't want to mess with it anymore. Beet juice, washer fluid or CaCl, they are all a nuisance if you need to do anything with a tire but if the tractor feels uncomfortable with your loader work, it may be your best choice.
4. 3rd function for FEL (~ $1700). Nice to have it for the snow blade and other implements but technically it can be connected to one of the rear remotes.
5. Self levelling loader. Most likely I will take it. Should be really handy for pallet work.
- like my self leveling loader on my M135GX but it tends to over-level. If my pallet forks are level at 5 feet above ground level, they will be pointed up when I lower the loader to the ground.
6. 82" or 72" bucket. Price difference is negligible.
7. Hooks on FEL bucket. Yes for sure.
8. Loader soft drive (technically a hydraulic damper). Can be good moving on uneven terrain with load.
- assume this is KRS or Kubota Ride System. Only problem I have had with mine is the dealer's mechanic left a hose connector loose on installation and I lost a couple gallons of oil and a swath of hay from the oil spray the first time I used it.
9. Switch to to ON/OFF soft drive (~$300)? I didn't know this was available. I have a 90 degree valve by the loader connector. It might be nice to have the switch but I change it so seldom I wouldn't order it and install now.
10. 3rd rear remote? I have 4 rear remotes because the dealer ordered it that way. Lost the use of one remote when an implement hitch broke and pulled the hose out at an angle damaging the valve so it will need to be replaced. Nice to have a spare or two.
11. Drawbar clevis. Yes.
- our Deeres come with a special clevis that is made for the safety chains on our newer implements. Better than the standard clevis from a farm store in that they are more compact. That would be the only reason to get one from the dealer instead of a garage sale.
12. FEL Grapple? For sure need 3rd function for that. Can be useful for clearing but not sure how much is it. Technically for occasional work can be done with either pallet fork or manure fork I guess.
13. Float function for rear remotes? Don't know how much. For scraper or blade.
- you will probably find use for at least one remote with float. I have 2 on the M136GX and none on the L6740, will likely buy one with float to add to the
L5740.
14. Hydraulic top link?
- wouldn't be without it on my
L5740 but I don't think anyone offers something beefy enough for the larger tractors. Having broke the end of the top link cylinder on the
L5740, I would never want that to happen on the larger tractors; however, our larger tractors almost never use the top link.
15. Wide mount rear wheels?
16. Get it with 12 gears or 24 gears ($2700 extra)?
- is the 24 speed a 18% or so shift under load downshift? If so well worth the money. Even if not a person would be surprised how useful the extra speeds can be even if there are a number of gears that are never used. It's getting a lot of different speeds in the working range. In my case one example is chopping hay for my brother-in-law. Depending on windrow size I have 3 choices (typical windrow size here) while my BIL has only 1 that will work on the older International he uses on his identical chopper so although I have 15 fewer horsepower, I always get more loads chopped per day.
Anything else is missing what I should get together with tractor and what is easier to get now?
- you didn't 't mention the loader gang coupler. I have that on my M135GX even though I only remove the loader when chopping hay (otherwise I like the loader instead of installing front end weights). I would never buy it if I were buying again. Mine failed and the replacement is now seeping. I may return to 4 individual couplers again like I used when Kubota took 8 weeks to get a replacement for my original failed multi-coupler.
Thanks for all of your help and suggestions!
I have changed suppliers a couple of times since you bought your T&T set. New stuff is quite a bit better and bigger. I have some cat 2 ends that are 3 3/8" in dia and my now std cat 2 ends are 3". Even have cat 3 stuff available. You need a top link for your 135? No problem. 