Some tractor's options
- Thread starter nwind
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Don't mean to hijack, but I've been kicking tires lately. Is float on the rear hydraulics not a standard thing with Kubota? Does it at least come with one standard, or does it vary? Will the lever stick forward key off or does it need to be running to test?
I also have heard and seen mention of radial tires on Kubota's quite a bit. What's the story behind radial vs. old fashioned?
I also have heard and seen mention of radial tires on Kubota's quite a bit. What's the story behind radial vs. old fashioned?
MtnViewRanch
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No, the float function it is an option. Yes it will go into float and stay there, but without something attached, not sure if you can tell the difference between having float or just having a detent. I'm not sure if Kubota's detent valve has the detent at both ends or just at one end.
Radial tires give you better traction as well as a better ride. :cool
Here is Michelin's explanation of difference for radial vs. bias tires:
Comparison of radial and bias tires by Michelin Agricultural
Comparison of radial and bias tires by Michelin Agricultural
Well that sucks about the float function. For anyone who owns a Kubota, is the float position forward of a noticeable detent position, or is there some other way to tell when shopping for a used Kubota?
Thanks for that. It's the softer ride I'm wondering about. Is it really that noticeable? I ran biased ply tires on my first truck. Traction when wet was pathetic, but I don't remember it making the ride that bad. Of course it has been a couple of years since I did this.
xring100
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I have 2 remotes on my M8540 1 is self canceling it has detents at either end of throw. The other valve with float function only has 1 detent in the forward position no detent if you pull back.
I have radials they run lower pressure and squat more than a bias ply I would guess therefore thet might ride slightly better for this reason but im not sure my calibrated kindneys could tell any difference. My buddies JD has 16.9 x 28 bias plys and I have 18.4 x 30 radials both tractors are loaded. In both cases the opperator seems to be the shock absorber over rough ground.
In case you use radial tires better do not load them because you loosing most of they advantages.
To increase weight/balance tractor use cast centres, wheel weight, rear ballast box.
In case your prefer to use loaded tires or have no other choice bias tires probably is the better choice.
To increase weight/balance tractor use cast centres, wheel weight, rear ballast box.
In case your prefer to use loaded tires or have no other choice bias tires probably is the better choice.
boggen
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the tractor (cab or without cab)
FEL (bucket or no bucket types)
if needed a backhoe attachment.
all other attachments, from FEL bucket to 3pt hitch attachments. can be obtained from many different manufactures.
it is just that the FEL (front end loader) the arms and frame work for them, tend to be more tractor specific, and same goes for a sub frame / 3pt hitch backhoe. the 3 are generally the more higher priced ticket items compared to everything else. and might be easier to get a deal on combo package.
the big round bales is issue, more so when "unloading them from a possible double stacked trailer, to stacking them storage till needed" good FEL lift capacity, and good amount rear ballast. a wider stance tractor, to point to seeing if you can flip the rims around, for a wider stance. so when ya try to turn just a little bit ya don't end up tipping tractor onto side with a round bail.
dig bigger pond. *arghs* depends on tractor and implements and pond and access to it.
move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow, move some dirt, fencing, clear some grounds (move stones, old tree parts, etc),pallet work. *no big deal* any tractor can handle it, just bigger tractor with correct implements does it faster.
pallet forks, brush cutter, box scrape and/or rear blade PHD (post hole digger) common enough easy enough to get and cheap if you can hold out and wait for a sale on them to come around.
pallet forks for FEL, and 3pt hitch, and/or bail spear. would be a nice combo when dealing with driving distances and large round bails.
manure forks/grapple. AND Snow pusher, the manure forks/grapple i can understand cleaning a animal pen, but question some of not mention of a regular FEL bucket. with regular duties of moving dirt around, and bigger pond, and cleaning up and maintaining. i see no general "shovel / bucket" in your list of stuff. everything "pokes" or slides stuff around but never picks up a large amount of dirt or like.
===========
bar min 2 rear remotes, for what ever 3pt implement comes along, that has hydrualic wings that fold out, and then lower/raising road tires.
3rd and 4th remotes, (TNT) top and tilt for 3pt hitch. 1 for top link, and 1 for one of side links for the 3pt hitch. with road/driveway maintance, pond, trails, it would be a nice feature to help with that nice professional look easier and quicker. box blade, rear blade, land plane, some sort of 3pt hitch rake, is what you will be looking at mostly for TNT. TNT can be nice if you have 3pt hitch pallet forks on, and trying to nail a big round round bail. and just not able to slide in right, due to uneven ground.
you have telescopic rear 3pt hitch lift arms. unsure if they are clevics (pats easy change ends) or not. or if wanted 3pt hitch quick attach.
double check ya get the extra stuff for 3pt hitch, sway chains, bars, etc.... some times ya just get lift arms and top link. and draw bar, sway chains, etc.. are extra.
the 540/1000 RPM option for tractor, might be suggested, for different bush hogs (rotatory cutters), round bailers, square bailers, 3pt style snow blowers. you have large enough tractors and different setups might work better.
if option, larger alternator, it should be automatic with cab, to deal with extra lights,
trailer connection / pig tail on rear if roading stuff between properties.
brush guard for front if doesn't come with FEL. hopefully grill is easy removal with access to regular engine radiator, hyd cooler in front....
is there an optional toolbox / stairs combo for unit? for going in/out of cab?
12vs24 gear, go for 24 gear. large enough tractor and ability to select speeds in field pending on conditions and implement can get ya through field faster. if you doing dirt work, it can help select the gear that works a tad better over all.
is there a cigarette light plugin on rear or like connection, for any sort of tools / work lights. for things when they go bad. ((along with plugging in a grease gun if you use a 12v style))
==============
there was mention of R4's vs R1's if skimmed things right, and snow pusher... i hate r4's on snow/ice. and in mud. a lot of stuff you will be doing in mud and/or wet ground. R1's might be a better choice overall. so you are not slipping and sliding the rear end all around.
chains might be suggested for tires if needed.
i see high rear lights on cabs, but guessing they are not directional and only shine backwards. i did not see much of any sort of "fender lighting that shines down at the 3pt hitch area.
=================
if doing field work, i see no mention of any sort of field style computer setup, to deal with prepping fields / planting / spraying / harvesting.
==================
seriously check out other brands, see how the cabs are and take them for a test run, see if you can easily access all the filters and radiators to blow stuff out of them (engine radiator, hyd cooler in front, and guessing extra cooler some place else for transmission possibly)
double check options, that are tractor specific (manufacture to manufacture, and between models)
FEL (bucket or no bucket types)
if needed a backhoe attachment.
all other attachments, from FEL bucket to 3pt hitch attachments. can be obtained from many different manufactures.
it is just that the FEL (front end loader) the arms and frame work for them, tend to be more tractor specific, and same goes for a sub frame / 3pt hitch backhoe. the 3 are generally the more higher priced ticket items compared to everything else. and might be easier to get a deal on combo package.
the big round bales is issue, more so when "unloading them from a possible double stacked trailer, to stacking them storage till needed" good FEL lift capacity, and good amount rear ballast. a wider stance tractor, to point to seeing if you can flip the rims around, for a wider stance. so when ya try to turn just a little bit ya don't end up tipping tractor onto side with a round bail.
dig bigger pond. *arghs* depends on tractor and implements and pond and access to it.
move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow, move some dirt, fencing, clear some grounds (move stones, old tree parts, etc),pallet work. *no big deal* any tractor can handle it, just bigger tractor with correct implements does it faster.
pallet forks, brush cutter, box scrape and/or rear blade PHD (post hole digger) common enough easy enough to get and cheap if you can hold out and wait for a sale on them to come around.
pallet forks for FEL, and 3pt hitch, and/or bail spear. would be a nice combo when dealing with driving distances and large round bails.
manure forks/grapple. AND Snow pusher, the manure forks/grapple i can understand cleaning a animal pen, but question some of not mention of a regular FEL bucket. with regular duties of moving dirt around, and bigger pond, and cleaning up and maintaining. i see no general "shovel / bucket" in your list of stuff. everything "pokes" or slides stuff around but never picks up a large amount of dirt or like.
===========
bar min 2 rear remotes, for what ever 3pt implement comes along, that has hydrualic wings that fold out, and then lower/raising road tires.
3rd and 4th remotes, (TNT) top and tilt for 3pt hitch. 1 for top link, and 1 for one of side links for the 3pt hitch. with road/driveway maintance, pond, trails, it would be a nice feature to help with that nice professional look easier and quicker. box blade, rear blade, land plane, some sort of 3pt hitch rake, is what you will be looking at mostly for TNT. TNT can be nice if you have 3pt hitch pallet forks on, and trying to nail a big round round bail. and just not able to slide in right, due to uneven ground.
you have telescopic rear 3pt hitch lift arms. unsure if they are clevics (pats easy change ends) or not. or if wanted 3pt hitch quick attach.
double check ya get the extra stuff for 3pt hitch, sway chains, bars, etc.... some times ya just get lift arms and top link. and draw bar, sway chains, etc.. are extra.
the 540/1000 RPM option for tractor, might be suggested, for different bush hogs (rotatory cutters), round bailers, square bailers, 3pt style snow blowers. you have large enough tractors and different setups might work better.
if option, larger alternator, it should be automatic with cab, to deal with extra lights,
trailer connection / pig tail on rear if roading stuff between properties.
brush guard for front if doesn't come with FEL. hopefully grill is easy removal with access to regular engine radiator, hyd cooler in front....
is there an optional toolbox / stairs combo for unit? for going in/out of cab?
12vs24 gear, go for 24 gear. large enough tractor and ability to select speeds in field pending on conditions and implement can get ya through field faster. if you doing dirt work, it can help select the gear that works a tad better over all.
is there a cigarette light plugin on rear or like connection, for any sort of tools / work lights. for things when they go bad. ((along with plugging in a grease gun if you use a 12v style))
==============
there was mention of R4's vs R1's if skimmed things right, and snow pusher... i hate r4's on snow/ice. and in mud. a lot of stuff you will be doing in mud and/or wet ground. R1's might be a better choice overall. so you are not slipping and sliding the rear end all around.
chains might be suggested for tires if needed.
i see high rear lights on cabs, but guessing they are not directional and only shine backwards. i did not see much of any sort of "fender lighting that shines down at the 3pt hitch area.
=================
if doing field work, i see no mention of any sort of field style computer setup, to deal with prepping fields / planting / spraying / harvesting.
==================
seriously check out other brands, see how the cabs are and take them for a test run, see if you can easily access all the filters and radiators to blow stuff out of them (engine radiator, hyd cooler in front, and guessing extra cooler some place else for transmission possibly)
double check options, that are tractor specific (manufacture to manufacture, and between models)
grm61
Platinum Member
A loaded radial tire is WAY more puncture resistant, and will wear much longer than a loaded bias tire.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
3rd function is a must for a grapple, e.g. ...I had it and lost it (long story) and tried using a rear remote, but the lever placement is all wrong ...you would need both arms on the same side of your body to work it smoothly ...so, I replaced the 3rd function and am glad I did.
3rd rear remote: if you have T&T, you've used two up ...and, a rear blade wants to power angle. More is better: I have six (6) and with my rear blade, use every one of them...and, IMO, each has to be "push-pull"
If you decide to blow snow, creeper gear(s) will pay for themselves in clutches.
Do it right the first time...i.e., at initial purchase
3rd rear remote: if you have T&T, you've used two up ...and, a rear blade wants to power angle. More is better: I have six (6) and with my rear blade, use every one of them...and, IMO, each has to be "push-pull"
If you decide to blow snow, creeper gear(s) will pay for themselves in clutches.
Do it right the first time...i.e., at initial purchase