Soundproofing the B3030 Cab and found something interesting

[chim]

Here's an example:

2 PART ISOLATOR: Anti-Vibration Methods

 

[RFB]

That looks like an intriguing concept in conjunction with the iso pad, and they have a weather/exposure option: "For marine applications we can offer 316 stainless steel for the inner tube and EPDM"

chim, is there a size chart for the product line?

 

[WaxMan]

Chim, that makes a lot of sense but the only problem I see with the B3030 is that there isn't a lot of room between the bolt and the floor. Can you suggest a remedy for this? Thanks for your advice.

The part where I'm installing the waffle pad has No bolts to the HST, just the weight of the floor, operator and fenders sits down on this spot. The waffle pad will have no place to move and does not need to be bolted down.
There are two other spots where the floor is bolted down which maybe I could use something like that.
Thank you chim for your help and suggestions I will look into that.

 

[chim]

RFB - When I was in the field, the rep for Korfund, Amber/Booth or Mason Industries did most of the legwork for assembling the product submittals. We provided them with the loaded weights of the equipment and piping systems. They gave us catalog cuts of the proposed isolators. I just recall seeing something similar to that shown in the link. Sorry but I don't have more useful info. Grainger handles some of these materials.

WaxMan - I misunderstood and thought you were doing bolted connections.

 

[Creamer]

Think of the floor as drum or a speaker. If you can create the noise without anything on the floor and dampen your finger and very lightly touch the floor all over and you will find where it is vibrating. then use some heavy relatively high durometer rubber with adhesive to change the frequency. the key is that everything has a natural frequency and when the exciter gets close to the natural frequency of the transmitter it excites and you have noise. If you can change the frequency of one or the other enough to have the frequencies be opposite you cancel the noise out. I know this is easier said than done but it is doable.

 

[WaxMan]

Think of the floor as drum or a speaker. If you can create the noise without anything on the floor and dampen your finger and very lightly touch the floor all over and you will find where it is vibrating. then use some heavy relatively high durometer rubber with adhesive to change the frequency. the key is that everything has a natural frequency and when the exciter gets close to the natural frequency of the transmitter it excites and you have noise. If you can change the frequency of one or the other enough to have the frequencies be opposite you cancel the noise out. I know this is easier said than done but it is doable.

I'll bet you could do a good job tuning my drum set. Sounds like you can do some serious fine tuning.

 

[Creamer]

Spent too much time around cars - fuel tanks, door panels, floor pans, etc. A lot of tuning goes on. Although I m not an electronics guy the one I find the most interesting is the exhaust systems where they measure the frequencies based on the engine and the load and electronically create noise to cancel/dampen or change the exhaust noise to what is desired.

 

[bandit67]

Waxman, let us know which thickness pad ends up working. Your project is essentially what I was planning on doing to my B3000, so I'll be very interested to hear about your results.

In addition, I'm trying to decide if I should add dynamat type stuff on the underside of the seat pan - not sure how much difference it'll make. I did find a product that supposedly has significantly less asphalt odor, since some of the dynamat products will off-gas for months in that small cab space. My plan was to install the mat on the underside (outside the cab) wherever possible. Also found a more dense foam isolation mat that I will probably use between the floor and rubber floor mat in place of the foam mat that Kubota provides.

I suspect your project will net some pretty impressive results. Only reason I haven't started on mine yet is that we are probably not done with the massive spring snow storms, but now that I've seen your dissasembly pics, I can start ordering all the components. I definitely like the idea of that rubber vibration isolation mat. :thumbsup:

 

[RFB]

Another B3000 user here, and I am very interested in this project as well as the dirt/dust migration solution.

As an aside, on my previous L5030, I removed the roof and installed the aluminized bubble foil insulation onto the underside of the cab roof to cut down on heat transfer.
Have any of you done this or similar with a B3030 or 3000?

 

[PSDStu]

I just finished adding some Bubble foil insulation to the underside of the cab roof of my B3030 a few days ago. Time will tell later this summer how well this will work. I'm still trying to come up with something to do a better job of keeping the dust out of the cab.

 

[WaxMan]

Bandit, I heard the cheaper sound material gives off fumes. This stuff has no smell. going on the outside anyway. I started off with the vibration damping material very sticky aluminum covered rubber, once stuck on it will never come off. It would be a nightmare tying to get this stuff off. So I'll be the ginny pig and let you know if you should do this or not. I was surprised how heavy duty the aluminum is on the Dynamat extreme.

The way I'm doing it all material will be on the bottom out of site. The only material on top will be Dynamat DynaPad It's just special sound foam with no adhesive This is to replace Kubota's gray pads under the floor mat.

This is a description of the Dynamat DynaPad this will be the ONLY material on top under the Kubota rubber mat. So all three products will be used in combination.
DynaPad is a heavy-duty composite barrier providing maximum acoustical attenuation and excellent thermal insulation. DynaPad utilizes Dissimilar Layer Insulating technology that solves two of the most difficult automotive problems; exhaust system heat and low frequency noise. Easy to install DynaPad can be used in place of carpet pad and is oil and water resistant. Use DynaPad on floors interior firewalls rear decks and in trunks for cool quiet comfort. For optimal results apply DynaPad over Dynamat Xtreme.


I made cardboard patterns first, then cut out the Dynamat extreme then the half inch Dynaliner foam sound absorbing mat using the cardboard patterns. I removed the panel under the seat also, the material is that Kubota uses is nowhere near as dense. It's a real pain to get the old stuff off.
As bad as everything looks now, nothing will show once the panels are back on. I'm glad the 1/2 foam panels are Kubota gray color.
The waffle mat with just a little trimming fits just right as shown in the pictures. I ending up using the 3/8 thick waffle pad. It will be sandwiched between the Dynamat extreme I will put it on the transmission plates under the waffle mount also. The last picture is Kubota's factory foam under the seat it's coming off also and the two step process will be put on that panel also.
Here is a short video. You can hear the sound difference before and after.

http://youtu.be/s7eADA97B94

 

[srs]

WaxMan, wow what a difference using the Dynamat products. Video really shows how much quieter it is. Can you tell us how much material you bought of each, the Extreme and the DynaPad? Great job!

 

[WaxMan]

WaxMan, wow what a difference using the Dynamat products. Video really shows how much quieter it is. Can you tell us how much material you bought of each, the Extreme and the DynaPad? Great job!

I will Stanley, but don't run out and buy it just yet, lets make sure it works, maybe it will produce a sound so low and annoying that after an hour my gums and ears bleed :confused2:
And I have to buy all new panels to put it back the way it was.:thumbdown:

 

[bandit67]

Waxman, nice work. This is exactly what I was planning on doing. I have been trying to decide between Dynamat, Thermo Tec, & FatMat products for this project. I have to believe doing this modification is going to make a huge difference.

I Dynamatted my 01 Superduty crew cab years back. Had to remove the ENTIRE interior for that project, and got it done in a weekend, so this one should be a cake walk compared to that project. Neighbors thought I was crazy with all the seats, carpet, headliner, trim, etc sprawled out all over my garage. I only used the Dynamat on that job, and it made a big difference blocking road noise and the 7.3L engine noise. Had a lot of comments from folks over the years about how much quieter my truck was than their truck with the same motor. So I'm really looking forward to this project.

Keep us posted on your results.

 

[srs]

WaxMan, I think what you're doing will greatly improve the sound quality inside the cab and reduce some of the annoying noise. Will wait and see, thank you again. Stanley

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

you maybe pretty far along with this, but we had a problem on a New Holland where the rubber isolators let the cab move too much, and we replaced them with hockey pucks. The solid rubber of those worked well and compressed with the weight of the cab. Maybe worth a try.

The new replacements to the B3030/3000 are isolated from the factory.

 

[WaxMan]

you maybe pretty far along with this, but we had a problem on a New Holland where the rubber isolators let the cab move too much, and we replaced them with hockey pucks. The solid rubber of those worked well and compressed with the weight of the cab. Maybe worth a try.

The new replacements to the B3030/3000 are isolated from the factory.

Thank you for your suggestion and maybe my next post will make more sense now. I think the most of the cab will be as it was with the original four isolators, the waffle mount is mostly just up and down resting the seat on the HST. It fits just right in that spot with no modifications and the four bolt heads will keep it in place the waffle mount is just to to keep it from metal to metal. But read the next post.

 

[WaxMan]

Do's and don'ts
Ok made a mistake today, well probably made many but this one I know about.
I thought it would be a good idea to put a small strip of the sound deadener on the sides as shown in the first pictures. After all the fenders and the floor bolt together metal to metal.
The Extreme is only 1/16 thick. I thought it would make a nice gasket. But once tighten down it squeezes out and leaves a sticky seal which is just going to get covered with dirt. I don't like it. So I will have to take the two panels back out and remove the side strips. Seems the Extreme is not good under pressure, it's meant to be just on a panel not squeezed. I think it will just keep squeezing out until metal to metal again.

Now I think I should also remove the Extreme on top and below the waffle mount and have the rubber mount be touching the bare metal on top and bottom. At first I thought it would be better with a little more movement, but now I'm not sure? any Idea's? about the Extreme on top and below the waffle mount? Over time it's just going to squeeze out. What do you guys think leave it under and over the mount or remove it.



I like this Daynamat Extreme I can see I'm going to be using a lot of this stuff under the plastic dash, this is where most of the dirt is entering the cab, being blown in from the engine fan. This I knew for years after having the cover off before. Just didn't know how to stop it. This Extreme can cover all the holes. Also around the wires entering the cab.

 

[bandit67]

WaxMan,

I was looking things over today coming up with a game plan. I determined that I shouldn't put anything on the flanges that bolt parts together, as that could allow for some additional movement between the parts, and since the main purpose of sound deadener adhesive sheets is to stop sound resonation through large flat areas, it would be better to allow the metal flange areas to be cinched down tight to one another.

Another area in particular, is the small plate over the transmission hump directly behind the plastic steering panel. Be careful how you install sound deadener on that one because it bolts in 2 different planes, and additional spacing on either plane will cause one set of bolts to not line up upon reassembly. This is the area that you've installed the mat over the tranny hump in your last picture in the above post (#38).

 

[WaxMan]

WaxMan,

I was looking things over today coming up with a game plan. I determined that I shouldn't put anything on the flanges that bolt parts together, as that could allow for some additional movement between the parts, and since the main purpose of sound deadener adhesive sheets is to stop sound resonation through large flat areas, it would be better to allow the metal flange areas to be cinched down tight to one another.

Another area in particular, is the small plate over the transmission hump directly behind the plastic steering panel. Be careful how you install sound deadener on that one because it bolts in 2 different planes, and additional spacing on either plane will cause one set of bolts to not line up upon reassembly. This is the area that you've installed the mat over the tranny hump in your last picture in the above post (#38).

Why could'nt you tell me that yesterday
That next piece bolts to the sides of that hst hump and has the clearance to fit, remember that extreme is only 1/16 thick Kubota has a 1/2 foam piece under that panel.
The holes can also be oblong a little if need be, I think that is a important part to be covered the plate that covers it will also be covered underneath and with the updated foam.