Split rail fencing the DIY (and budget) way

[lilranch2001]

Craftsman Drill Motor.......

My first power tool I bought when I was 16!

 

[BobRip]

You asked about HP ratings, so here goes. Many manufacturers now, depending on whether they want to be completely dishonest, use a LRHP figure. That means locked rotor horsepower, which is the maximum hp it can make by locking the rotor for a split second. It is completely unsustainable, as the motor would burn out very quickly. Many years ago, audio amplifier companies did the same thing for a while with PIP, which was peak inverse power, the max amount that an amplifier could put out for a fraction of a second before blowing up.

At locked rotor there is no horsepower, only torque. You have to be moving to generate horsepower. They have strange ways to calculate horsepower. Whatever it is, as you say, it is not sustainable. You cannot get 3 horsepower from a 120 volt 20 amp circuit unless your motor is 100% efficient and that is not going to happen?

 

[ustmd]

Looks great. Can't wait to see the finsihed product.

 

[orezok]

To get a "real" approximation of the motor horsepower, multiply faceplate amps x 120 (voltage) and divide by 746. This does not account for motor efficiency.

 

[pat32rf]

Good old "wrist breaker" drill. While working at the trade (electrical) was involved with three workers over 25 years who tried to hold on when they jammed. All of them wound up wearing a cast.
I still have one I liberated 20 years ago that I keep for "those" jobs.....

 

[chad22]

Looking great. Can't wait to see the finished project. :thumbsup:

Chad

 

[Domush]

If it ever stops being 95 F here I'll have the energy to finish it

Sent from my SCH-I500 using TractorByNet

 

[chad22]

If it ever stops being 95 F here I'll have the energy to finish it

Sent from my SCH-I500 using TractorByNet

I hear ya. The temps been in the 97 range here. It's supposed to head on up to 100F. My AC's are gonna be working overtime.

Might have to turn the pulsating sprinkler on and get a lawn chair and sit outside and let the spray hit me each time it goes around. Lol

Chad

 

[Domush]

Hi everyone! I finally got around to completing the landscape timber split rail fence last week and took some photos today.

I custom cut the length of each rail to stick out 1-2" outside each post. Doing that allowed me to hammer each rail snug against the preceding rail. Doing this makes the rails wiggle-proof and prevents them from twisting on me.

The finished product. In all, 99 timbers were used, following some of my driveway and back around my house. Pretty much everywhere I can see from within my house. I hated the look of the wire fencing, so this was mainly just for looks.

I nailed barbed wire along the tops of the posts in order to keep my horse from jumping the fence (which she most certainly can). It seems effective so far. As a side benefit, the barbed wire line holds the posts from tilting side to side, locking the rails in place.

As far as the eye can see, and a bit further.

For comparison, this is the original fence:

Quite a difference, eh?

Grand total, the fence cost me $260 for over 300 feet of fencing including lumber, wire and nails ($360 if you count the price of the new saw). Try getting that with pre-made!

 

[GGB]

A very nice looking fence! I may steal this idea to compliment the ranch gate I still need to do this fall.

GGB