Splitting Rock

[rdbrumfield]

I haven't read all the replies, but I would rent a cement, pavement saw and rip slots in it and take it down a layer at a time. Those diamond blades go through rock easily. If you have a garden hose that you can keep water for lubrication it helps.

 

[Jagmandave]

He's miles from any of that equipment, out in the boonies.

I was just wondering which surface would be "up" once the chunks were cut, I also didn't think polishing would be a good idea, but I was thinking once they were roughed in, maybe a nice sandblasting for texture?
How do they do it on This Old House?

 

[Gunnahafta]

I wasn't thinking of polishing the step, maybe just the front of the step (riser), but like I say, I kind of like the thought of having the hole remnants show to remind me of my hours splitting the things! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I guess you can "themal" the surface--hit it with a blast of concentrated heat (like from a torch) and the temp shock will flake pieces off. That way you can take down high spots and still keep it rough for traction....

I've only read about this, but it sure is fun when academics get put to practice....that's when the real learning happens!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Farwell]

Don't know if anyone posted the system we used on the farm when I was a kid. We would dig a fire pit under the rock and build a fire and keep the fire burning around the clock for a couple of days. We would work in shifts adding wood. After the rock got real hot we would pour cold water on it and it would split into manageable chunks.
The biggest rock that I remember splitting was around 4 foot long, 3 feet thick and about three feet wide.
We were jealous of the neighbors, they could afford dynamite.

 

[AndyR]

Things go pretty quickly with the 1/2" bit - I would say about 40 seconds for a 4" deep hole. Maybe less. I usually experience breakup of the carbide tips before the the bits become too dull to cut. My weapon of choice is a Makita 1 1/2" spline drive hammer drill - I don't have the model number right here but is has handled drilling 1" holes in granite and concrete with ease. I usually have minimal problems with dust when drilling granite - concrete is much worse.

As far as splitting off your holes, it can be done using appropriate chisels and hammers but takes a bit of practice. Sometimes I get quarry rubble (i.e. cast-offs) and will work a machine cut face to get that modern look out of it. As someone else mentioned you can use heat to flake off the surface. Use eye protection and a MAPP gas torch (yellow bottle) and metal rod or wire brush to get off the flakes. You get pieces anywhere from 1/4" to an inch and some of them pop off at pretty good velocities but is softens up machine cut surfaces and gives you a pretty smooth yet textured surface. If you want to take down a high point use chisels and/or segmented edge diamond blades in a grinder (major dust alert) unless you have lots of money to burn on gas.

I'll try to snap a few photos of this summer's project - one end of my barn foundation that we are restoring. These would be the "before" photos. 'Looks like I'll be renting an excavator to deal with some big stone /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif - and I'm sure I'll find a few other projects as long as I have it on site.

 

[jhb]

Well, since I do not have a hammer drill, I think its a 1/2 inch core bit and a power drill! Anyone know where to get them? HD and Lowes do not have them. I also have been told there are cheap ones and good ones. There are a few stone yards around, I might try them.

 

[rbcsaver]

I learned a lot from this post and responses. I did order feathers and wedges, or wedges and shims from
Stone Tools Rock Cutting Tool Carving Masonry Hammers Granite Cutting Tools
We are building a dry-stack rockwall, just behind our home, at the bottom of a drainage trench and the new 20 wide x 30 concrete stamped concrete patio we had installed in June.
We built a (planned) stone wall behind that at the time. Speed, VAC time and a large existing rock pile in front of the house (when we bought the place 4 years ago) made the first 20 feet go "fast" at a month of weekends when I was home. Geneolgy research gas since revealed that my great-great Grandfather was a Stone Mason, so it is in my genes and I truly feel sometimes that he is helping me out when I ask and stones just seem to fit in place. Call it what you want. This is my 3rd wall before nI found our that my GG Grandfather was a stone mason. It is truly hard work and I wouldn't wan't to make a living at it.
I purchased a 1" SDS-plusｮ BULLDOG Xtreme Rotary Hammer from Home Cheapo, because I have rented a similar tool twice before. The family rule, as started by my terrific brother-in-law is the 3rd rental requires a purchase.
Two very large boulders in a corner near the horse fences made it a nuisance to mow around, plus I need the base rock/stone for the wall.
I purchased the Feathers/Wedges or Wedges/Shims from
Stone Tools Rock Cutting Tool Carving Masonry Hammers Granite Cutting Tools as posted here. Unfortunately, the don't give any guidance in how to use the Feathers/Wedges (Wedges and Shims). The first holes that I drilled were too wide, and 4" apart is Too Much for sedimentary rock. I ended up with horizontal splits . As a general guide, from a novice, I would suggest the following:
Drill as far as possible, through the rock. For sedimentary, the closer the better, even if your feathers and wedges aren't in every hole. I used a telescoping auto magnet(readily available at you local auto store) to retrieve shims (feathers) that fell into the holes.
The pics show some of our labor, and the vertically "stripped" based stones show the drill marks which will be chiseled of or buried under dirt later.
Final pics will follow if there is interest.
Thanks for everyone's help in getting me started to find the Feathers and Wedges that started my search.
Thanks,
Steve
7510 with (awesome) Markham Tooth Bar

 

[wombil]

No problem,
If you can hire the feather wedges as suggested,4 would be plenty,drill along the long side,place the wedges,and tap them in with the sledge hammer and you will be surprised how easily it will split.Follow the grain whichever way it goes if you can.

 

[rbcsaver]

If one looks at the first pic of my 60+ ft. stone wall from the left, large bottom rock about 1/3 from left that looks stripped, those are drill hole marks. I used Bosch solid, carbide tipped drill bits purchased from HD or Lowes. You do NOT need hollow (core) bits. I did NOT want my rocks to break with the seams because I wanted to keep them large for bases in the wall. I also scored the rock along the drill lines with a diamond circular saw blade also purchased from HD or Lowes.
regards,
Steve

 

[Egon]

[No problem,
If you can hire the feather wedges as suggested/QUOTE]

Okay???

You are familiar with splitting are you??