Splitting Rock

[rdbrumfield]

I haven't read all the replies, but I would rent a cement, pavement saw and rip slots in it and take it down a layer at a time. Those diamond blades go through rock easily. If you have a garden hose that you can keep water for lubrication it helps.

 

[Jagmandave]

He's miles from any of that equipment, out in the boonies.

I was just wondering which surface would be "up" once the chunks were cut, I also didn't think polishing would be a good idea, but I was thinking once they were roughed in, maybe a nice sandblasting for texture?
How do they do it on This Old House?

 

[Gunnahafta]

I wasn't thinking of polishing the step, maybe just the front of the step (riser), but like I say, I kind of like the thought of having the hole remnants show to remind me of my hours splitting the things! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I guess you can "themal" the surface--hit it with a blast of concentrated heat (like from a torch) and the temp shock will flake pieces off. That way you can take down high spots and still keep it rough for traction....

I've only read about this, but it sure is fun when academics get put to practice....that's when the real learning happens!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Farwell]

Don't know if anyone posted the system we used on the farm when I was a kid. We would dig a fire pit under the rock and build a fire and keep the fire burning around the clock for a couple of days. We would work in shifts adding wood. After the rock got real hot we would pour cold water on it and it would split into manageable chunks.
The biggest rock that I remember splitting was around 4 foot long, 3 feet thick and about three feet wide.
We were jealous of the neighbors, they could afford dynamite.

 

[AndyR]

Things go pretty quickly with the 1/2" bit - I would say about 40 seconds for a 4" deep hole. Maybe less. I usually experience breakup of the carbide tips before the the bits become too dull to cut. My weapon of choice is a Makita 1 1/2" spline drive hammer drill - I don't have the model number right here but is has handled drilling 1" holes in granite and concrete with ease. I usually have minimal problems with dust when drilling granite - concrete is much worse.

As far as splitting off your holes, it can be done using appropriate chisels and hammers but takes a bit of practice. Sometimes I get quarry rubble (i.e. cast-offs) and will work a machine cut face to get that modern look out of it. As someone else mentioned you can use heat to flake off the surface. Use eye protection and a MAPP gas torch (yellow bottle) and metal rod or wire brush to get off the flakes. You get pieces anywhere from 1/4" to an inch and some of them pop off at pretty good velocities but is softens up machine cut surfaces and gives you a pretty smooth yet textured surface. If you want to take down a high point use chisels and/or segmented edge diamond blades in a grinder (major dust alert) unless you have lots of money to burn on gas.

I'll try to snap a few photos of this summer's project - one end of my barn foundation that we are restoring. These would be the "before" photos. 'Looks like I'll be renting an excavator to deal with some big stone /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif - and I'm sure I'll find a few other projects as long as I have it on site.

 

[jhb]

Well, since I do not have a hammer drill, I think its a 1/2 inch core bit and a power drill! Anyone know where to get them? HD and Lowes do not have them. I also have been told there are cheap ones and good ones. There are a few stone yards around, I might try them.

 

[rbcsaver]

I learned a lot from this post and responses. I did order feathers and wedges, or wedges and shims from
Stone Tools Rock Cutting Tool Carving Masonry Hammers Granite Cutting Tools
We are building a dry-stack rockwall, just behind our home, at the bottom of a drainage trench and the new 20 wide x 30 concrete stamped concrete patio we had installed in June.
We built a (planned) stone wall behind that at the time. Speed, VAC time and a large existing rock pile in front of the house (when we bought the place 4 years ago) made the first 20 feet go "fast" at a month of weekends when I was home. Geneolgy research gas since revealed that my great-great Grandfather was a Stone Mason, so it is in my genes and I truly feel sometimes that he is helping me out when I ask and stones just seem to fit in place. Call it what you want. This is my 3rd wall before nI found our that my GG Grandfather was a stone mason. It is truly hard work and I wouldn't wan't to make a living at it.
I purchased a 1" SDS-plusｮ BULLDOG Xtreme Rotary Hammer from Home Cheapo, because I have rented a similar tool twice before. The family rule, as started by my terrific brother-in-law is the 3rd rental requires a purchase.
Two very large boulders in a corner near the horse fences made it a nuisance to mow around, plus I need the base rock/stone for the wall.
I purchased the Feathers/Wedges or Wedges/Shims from
Stone Tools Rock Cutting Tool Carving Masonry Hammers Granite Cutting Tools as posted here. Unfortunately, the don't give any guidance in how to use the Feathers/Wedges (Wedges and Shims). The first holes that I drilled were too wide, and 4" apart is Too Much for sedimentary rock. I ended up with horizontal splits . As a general guide, from a novice, I would suggest the following:
Drill as far as possible, through the rock. For sedimentary, the closer the better, even if your feathers and wedges aren't in every hole. I used a telescoping auto magnet(readily available at you local auto store) to retrieve shims (feathers) that fell into the holes.
The pics show some of our labor, and the vertically "stripped" based stones show the drill marks which will be chiseled of or buried under dirt later.
Final pics will follow if there is interest.
Thanks for everyone's help in getting me started to find the Feathers and Wedges that started my search.
Thanks,
Steve
7510 with (awesome) Markham Tooth Bar

 

[wombil]

No problem,
If you can hire the feather wedges as suggested,4 would be plenty,drill along the long side,place the wedges,and tap them in with the sledge hammer and you will be surprised how easily it will split.Follow the grain whichever way it goes if you can.

 

[rbcsaver]

If one looks at the first pic of my 60+ ft. stone wall from the left, large bottom rock about 1/3 from left that looks stripped, those are drill hole marks. I used Bosch solid, carbide tipped drill bits purchased from HD or Lowes. You do NOT need hollow (core) bits. I did NOT want my rocks to break with the seams because I wanted to keep them large for bases in the wall. I also scored the rock along the drill lines with a diamond circular saw blade also purchased from HD or Lowes.
regards,
Steve

 

[Egon]

[No problem,
If you can hire the feather wedges as suggested/QUOTE]

Okay???

You are familiar with splitting are you??

 

[PA hayseed]

Geneolgy research gas since revealed that my great-great Grandfather was a Stone Mason, so it is in my genes and I truly feel sometimes that he is helping me out when I ask and stones just seem to fit in place. Call it what you want. This is my 3rd wall before nI found our that my GG Grandfather was a stone mason. It is truly hard work and I wouldn't wan't to make a living at it.


Great, any chance that I could get you and your GG Grandfather to come over and help me with mine. The wife is useless. I have to use my tractor and straps to put the rocks in place, then a 10' digging bar to move them. If it falls over this winter, I am making a burial mound with them.

Most of the rocks are not huge, but some are 3-4' long, about 2-3 foot deep, and about a foot or so high. SOme are twice that size, and others are for shims. Would appreciate the help, and I would happily buy the beer of your choosing.

 

[tlfbx23]

ezebreak - Makers of Micro-Blaster

This looks like a fun way to do it.

 

[dawoodwa]

I saw an episode of "Cool Tools" on the DIY channel this past weekend that featured a product made from bentonite clay that is used to split rocks. It still requires drilling a hole in the rock, you mix the product into a slurry and pour in the hole, takes and hour or so to fracture the rock. Was looking for a link to the product but couldn't find it, if I do I will post it.

 

[gemini5362]

I saw an episode of "Cool Tools" on the DIY channel this past weekend that featured a product made from bentonite clay that is used to split rocks. It still requires drilling a hole in the rock, you mix the product into a slurry and pour in the hole, takes and hour or so to fracture the rock. Was looking for a link to the product but couldn't find it, if I do I will post it.

I believe that DIY has the link to that product. I looked it up after I saw the episode. Nice idea but to me that product was a tad bit expensive

 

[Window Geek]

s-Mite makes a compound that is poured into holes drilled in rock as a slurry. The slurry expands as it cures like super hydraulic cement and breaks the rock apart.
Try RockFrac rock splitting mortar for no vibration non explosive demolition of concrete and rock.

 

[Danno1]

.

Dexpan is another brand of non-explosive rock splitting compound.

.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I just got a price on that eze break unit. It's 1600 without any loads. I'd like to find a rental place and try it out.

Matt T.

 

[tlfbx23]

These guys have them listed on their website. The Microblaster 1 is $630. It would be nice to find a rental to try. A good investment if you have a lot of rock removal to do. No license required.
Rock Removal Technologies | Micro-Blaster description, accoessories, and ordering

 

[gunns]

I've several (10 to 20) large granite boulders to split ranging in size from lawn tractor to Volkswagen size that need splitting. Based on this thread and You Tube videos am I correct in thinking that I can split them with an electric drill and feather/wedges? It appears that one poster, Gunnahafta, was doing it with 12v battery drill and a ï½½ core bit. I have a Hilti 14v high torque hammer drill and a Milwaukee ï½½ heavy duty right-angle drill. The Milwaukee is not a hammer drill.

1. Would either of these work with a diamond core bit?
2. Should I stick with my hammer drill and a regular stone/masonry bit?
3. What size feather/wedges are recommended?

I realize that if this will work it will be a LOT of Work. That part doesn稚 faze me. A year or two ago I cut down nine eucalyptus trees (some over 80 tall) sectioned them into rounds (some close to 3 in diameter) and split all of it by hand with a Chopper1 Axe. My only concern is can I split the boulders with one of my drills and feather/wedges?

 

[racerboy832]

Having spent many hours splitting rock with different methods let me chime it. I ended up with several rocks bigger then my truck that the excavator couldn't move. I'm always on a budget and asked everyone. I got advice from starting a fire around it to blasting. None were an option. I tried the feather/wedges and they do work but some times you drill for an hour, Put them in , tap , tap tap and all it does is break off the top 4" sideways unless you have a good vaine in the rock. Here is how I ended up.


Get a large Hammer Drill. I have a TE92 Hilti bought it off ebay $100. or any hammer drill that will take SDS max bit. Buy a box of Dexpan off ebay for like $100. It comes with 4-5 bags.

I drilled 1.5" holes X 18" deep in the rock every 12-18". Put in Dexpan and go do something else. Sometimes it takes 2 hour to 24hrs.

If you get cheap like me drill 1" holes same depth and fill it just takes a little longer.

I watched a man across the street from me rent a air drill, drill 75% of the depth of the rock with 1.5" holes approx 7 foot deep, then took about 4 boxes of dexpan to split it. It did work fast.


Since I didn't have a air drill and compressor I could only drill 18" and it still worked great, just took a little longer. Once it starts crack it doesn't stop. I used about 6 bags on 5 huge rocks.

Good luck