Step by step photos of new garage

[Farwell]

My shop in the country was an uninsulated metal building and I just used one of the single burner Mr. Heaters. I notice it says for mounting directly to a 5-20 pound bottle, but I had mine on a 40 pound bottle and could keep it close and handy when I was sitting on a stool working at the work bench.

Bird,
When I first started using my pole barn I borrowed one of the 150,000 BTU propane heaters. I was shocked at the amount of moisture they generated, but loved the amount of heat. The way you use the Mr Heater, moisture wouldn't be a problem. I had two of them in my cart at Wally World getting ready to buy, when I got to check out they would not sell them to me due to a recall. I wanted them for one of my other buildings that is not heated yet. I think I am going to get one of those over head electric infrared spot heaters instead. They may cost more to use in the long run but I won't have to worry about running out of propane. Getting lazy.
David B

 

[Bird]

David, I only had 10' walls in that shop building and I did occasionally have a little condensation drip from the ceiling (actually the roof) right over the heater.

 

[gemini5362]

roger I have used the propane heaters that they sell with the thermostat on them for years. They hang on a wall and are good for 1000 sq feet that might be a bit light duty use for you but if it did not work you could get 2 of them. They are ventless so all you have to do is run the line and hang them on a wall. I buy propane during the summer when it is cheap. My propane dealer has a program where you pay during the summer at that price and they deliver it as you need it in the winter. If you rented a 250 gallon tank for your garage that would probably last you at least one year and maybe two depending on how often you use it. If you go with that kind of heater get the infared version. I have both kinds and I like the infrared better.

 

[fullmetal]

Roger,
Nice job, and fast!

I just designed and built a 28'x40' garage with a second story, so I think I can weigh in on your trusses.

I looked at the engineering drawing for your fink trusses. If you install a drywall ceiling (1/2" or thicker), you are good to go for bracing. If you will be delayed in the ceiling installation by a month or so, I would install 2x4 bracing on the bottom chord of the truss, 10' (or less) on center. My trusses required similar bracing as yours. I used scissor trusses which gave me additional height and they required more permanent bracing than your fink trusses do. The roof sheathing (OSB) is sufficient to prevent the "domino" effect, provided you followed a nailing schedule. If I remember right, 1' OC and 6" OC at the edges with 8d nails.

I will eventually insulate the attic space of my building. Until then, I've run 2x4's
perpendicular to the trusses from gable to gable so that I meet the requirements and pass inspection. My trusses have a 28' span. I divided the span into 1/3rds and put my bracing there. With your 24' span, you could go 8' from the truss supporting walls.

I am waiting to insulate and drywall the ceiling because I wanted to be able to watch for roof leaks without climbing into the attic space. We have had some serious storms blow through and so far, no leaks.

We (my family and I) did all the work with the exception of the concrete. My Wife, and FIL were my primary helpers and I had some additional In-Laws come over for some of the larger tasks such as setting the trusses. I also set my building into a hill, but my back wall is 12' high. That was just too much concrete for me to handle with my limited help.

As far as your panel bracing - I believe you should use 1/2" or thicker exterior plywood (a full 4x8 panel) at the corners of your building. Without it, you should use a "T" brace or 1x4 let into the studs at a diagonal at each corner. That is difficult considering the width of your overhead door. I don't think OSB is a valid panel brace - you really need more bracing.

Before you put up siding, you should wrap the wood with a house wrap. I used Tyvek, but you could use other products - even tar paper. Be aware that siding is not waterproof. To keep your building dry, you need a water resistant barrier between your siding and sheathing.

I've attached some pics of my project.

Good luck with yours!

Dave Zeigler

 

[weldingisfun]

Fullmetal, that is nice!
How will you be using the second floor. I noticed the overhead door there?

 

[fullmetal]

Thanks weldingisfun!

The second floor is for my woodworking shop. I've been wanting one for many years. I got tired of doing that in the driveway.

I'll partition off some of it for storage, and a room for finishing.

I put in the overhead door to keep it simple. A sliding door would have limited me on entry door placement, windows, etc. I wanted a door large enough to get a boat in/out of.

I want to wire the building this winter. This weekend I'll be updating the service on my house to 200 amp. After that is done, I can run a 100A feeder underground to the garage.

Hopefully I will have the time to rebuild the motor in my tractor this winter. It is low on compression...

Dave aka fullmetal

 

[gemini5362]

Roger I am going to do my walls with the same OSB I did my decking with. The price here is 5.98 per 4 x 8 sheet and 1/2 inch sheet rock in 4x8 sheets is 8.37 I would much rather go with the cheaper price and the OSB will stand up to a lot heavier use. If I get a stain on my garage floor I can just take my pressure washer to it and not have to worry about getting the walls wet. I go to a paint shop locally where the owner is really knowledgeable about her field and she said I can get a primer that is made for painting concret blocks It is a heavy paint and should even out the OSB so that I can finish it just like I would sheetrock.

 

[roermo]

Full metal, and I thought I was buliding a big garage and a large project. Nice looking building.

Well today we hung 860 sq.ft of sheet rock. Last week I help my brother in-law hang his ceiling. 12 footers. It almost did me in. Today I rented a sheet rock jack which he said would be to slow and clumsy. Well it took us half the time to hang mine than his and his garage was smaller. Yea.

I have a new question. I have 10 ft ceilings. The concrete wall in the picture is 7 foot tall. With 3 ft stud wall on top. The question is how would you build a wall to cover up the concrete. 1. build all the way to the top, insulate, wire and 7/16 osb.
2. build a wall only to the top of the 7ft top of the concrete. Then a plate over the ledge of the wall.

This way I spend less on studs and osb. Plus I will then have about 4 inches of lip and then the stud wall of 3 ½ inches total of 7 inch lip. Which could hold ladders and other items with peg boards behind it.

What do you all think.

Thanks

Roger

 

[Egon]

Why the OSB board?

Consider full length metal studs and drywall??

The lip will srely be a good place to lose things for short fellows like me. It may also tend to accumulate dust.

 

[fullmetal]

I would paint the concrete. I'm not sure why you want to cover it. Insulation?
If that's the case, I'd go with a straight wall all the way up and use OSB. I'm always banging into walls with something.

Dave