Step by step photos of new garage

[roermo]

Any one have an opinion on this.

Info:

I have two brick layor that will do this small job. In front of garage 2 rows of 4x6 columns of brick. total of 360 bricks. or 48 sq.ft.

1 brick layer said to put up the brick 1st and then the siding to the top of the brick


2nd brick layer said put the siding on 1st and j channel then run the brick to the siding

I am doing the siding but not sure how to aproach it.

Any ideas.

 

[Lynkage]

IMO

It is easier to go from the bottom up. You should still use an "J" or "L" channel depending on how you set your top brick to transition to the siding/brick. Use clear 50 year siliconized caulk.

 

[mudcat]

I would do the brick first. Then you won't worry about them getting mortar on your siding.

 

[roermo]

Got the pad in today. 14x8 5 inch thick 5 bag mix on 5 inch of crushed rock. With ½ rebar ever 2 feet going each direction.

Photo 1 pipe right shows the boot that takes the drain tile to 3-inch pvc. Then under the new pad.

Photo 2 shows the pipe leaving the pad on its way to a pipe laid when the house was built back in the 50’s that is under ground and on to the street.

The other photos show the pad and garage. It looks like in the picture the original pad is sloping at a funny angle but when you walk on it feels fine. While it does slope away from the house and to the left you cannot feel it. Why it looks funny in the photo I am not sure.

Sofit work tomorrow and brick work wed. Then on to pouring the paid I hope on Fri, if I can get off work.

That is it for now.

Roger

 

[crbr]

Every one here has been so good with help and advice when I write about tractor, when I built my add on to my house, and many more. So I thought I would post something just for fun and if all goes well no questions for help.

Here are the facts:
The garage is going to be 34 foot long and 26 to 28 wide, have not yet made up my mind.
Doing a footing 3 foot deep, 2 ft wide.
Brick lip for two sides (front and east side facing my house. The neighbors will only see roof because I set lower.
9Ft ceilings so I can get my tractor in with romps up.

Check back each day or so I will add pics.

I do have to work too, so I will work evenings and week ends and hope to have it under roof in two weeks or so.
Any comments are welcome, but please do not tell me I am nuts my wife has already done that.

Roger

I just completed a 40' X 40', three bay. Each outside bay ceiling is 12' with the center 14' for a future two-post lift. I have lots of pics if you need to see something specific that I did or I'd be glad to share something upon request.

Good luck. One thing I regret in the concrete finishing is using a curing agent (or a phoney so-called sealer). I now have to either scarify or acid-etch the floor to place the epoxy finish floor cover on the concrete. Leave the concrete free from a sealer or curing agent if you ever think you'll place epoxy on the concrete. That is a future project for me. Stuff is nice...

 

[crbr]

IMO

It is easier to go from the bottom up. You should still use an "J" or "L" channel depending on how you set your top brick to transition to the siding/brick. Use clear 50 year siliconized caulk.

Indeed.

Slope the transition down and away. A flat surface is water problems.

 

[crbr]

Got the pad in today. 14x8 5 inch thick 5 bag mix on 5 inch of crushed rock. With ½ rebar ever 2 feet going each direction.

Photo 1 pipe right shows the boot that takes the drain tile to 3-inch pvc. Then under the new pad.

Photo 2 shows the pipe leaving the pad on its way to a pipe laid when the house was built back in the 50’s that is under ground and on to the street.

The other photos show the pad and garage. It looks like in the picture the original pad is sloping at a funny angle but when you walk on it feels fine. While it does slope away from the house and to the left you cannot feel it. Why it looks funny in the photo I am not sure.

Sofit work tomorrow and brick work wed. Then on to pouring the paid I hope on Fri, if I can get off work.

That is it for now.

Roger

Your rebar placement seems to be OK, however please be sure and use ample expansion joints. You cannot get too many, no matter how over-done it may seem.

One thing I'll tell you about rebar, you may already know; spacing is important on a horizontal plane but be sure and use rebar risers, brick chips, or something to get the rebar off of the ground. Even lifting it with a rake as one places the concrete (common among wire mesh users) the rebar will settle right back, rendering it much less effective than raising it up into the near center of the form. This is as important of a prep as I can think of. Otherwise, it's almost wasting your time and effort. Rebar in the bottom of a placement is not functional.

And another thing, fiber reinforced concrete should never be considered as a primary reinforcement method. It's not for the intent, as is the rebar that you are installing.

 

[roermo]

This evening I pulled off the forms and did some leveling on the yard. I had the brick on the front, and mailbox installed of the same brick as the garage a room addition I did last year.

I am going to form up the apron tomorrow and pour Fri.

At work I had 8 florescent light burn out had to rewire the whole office. And put in new lights. Also put a roll roof on the 100-year-old building.

Of course I have had help to cover all this work.

I am getting close to the end.

Roger

 

[crbr]

Nice mailbox enclosure. I like the brick, even on the garage.

 

[patrick_g]

I built my moms garage 24x26 and it is not big enough for two cars hardly if the garage has much else in it and don't they always?

My garage (3 car) is 1/2 of a 36x48 bld so it is about 36 ft wide and 24 ft long. The F-250 crew cab with short bed had to be a short bed because the longer model would not fin in the new garage bay selected for it. Every time I park it I think I am going to hit the wall in front and have had the automatic door hit the trailer hitch and recycle. Wish it were a bit longer space. (I'll manage.)

My roll-up doors are 10 ft wide and a full 8 ft high on the outside bays and I have a 14 ft high door in the center bay. (OK, I confess the center bay intrudes into the shop another 6 ft.) (If it is legal on the interstate it doesn't exceed 13'6" in height.) My shop is in the other 1/2 of the bld and has a lean to roof shed on the side with the 48 ft dimension (shed width is 21 ft) I have a roll up door leading from the shed into the shop because I hate being on my back in summer working under a vehicle and have sweat pool up in my eyes and blind me or since I am too clumsy to work with gloves I don't want to turn wrenches with numb fingers in winter. Door lets me bring stuff inside in heated and cooled shop to work on it.

Last year I was so proud of my shop and glad to have it. This year I will be walling in the open 48 ft side of the shed as an annex to my shop but with doors lined up with the existing roll up door and building a pole barn to hold the tractor and implements. Miracle Steel didn't have a larger shed accessory to fit my bld and it is too short for my tractor with implements on both ends.

Moral of the story is that whatever size you build you will probably wish it were larger. Thinking is cheap compared to building or especially having to remodel so think a lot before you start. I am glad my 48x21 shed was originally designed to be closed in if you want and even has metal pockets to hold the 2x6 purlins.

You have received some great suggestions from several posters. Consider that you will probably want to have a lot more outlets than the residential standard and lots of 220 available.

Oh, and I settled for a 10 ft ceiling in my shop and sincerely wish I had gone for 12.

Pat