Step by step photos of new garage

[roermo]

oh one more thing I left out. I am pouring 5 inchs and deeper around the edge up to 7 inches. Pluse around here they use 5 and 5 1/2 bag mix. I am using 6. Pllus around here last week we were down to 10 degress at night and 30 during the day. Over the next few days we are going to be 50 and 30 at night. So we are adding 1 percent calcium.

Any thoughts.

Roger (is it morning yet, where are the cement trucks?)

 

[roermo]

Well at 9:00 the 1st truck pulled in and could not make it up the side yard that had 3 inches of rain, then 14 inch of snow on it last week. We took my tractor and dumped gravel on the ruts. Then 30 minutes later the 2nd truck showed up, that drive went right in with little trouble. The 1st driver did not hit the gas enough to get it moving. All in all we dumped 15 yards of 6 bag mix with 1 percent cal in it. This proved to be a mistake for it hit 60 today so the set up was fast.

Hope you enjoy the pictures. Now the brother in law is done and my job begains with the framing. I am puting in 26 ft trustees and two foot over hang on each side. 5/12 pitch. Load of 30pd per sq.ft.

Now I need some help on what to do with the drain tub. On the left side of the garage (pic 6 t drain 1) the drain tub is resting on the foot note just 1/2 below the door cut out. A pad will have to be poured infront of the door. I do not think a 1/2 inch of concrete would be enough to cover this so it could run on down beside the house. So my question is this. Can a person block or cap one end of the drain tube on up the line and ther by force the water on the other sdie of the garage where it could be managed better (see pic 7t drain. or should I make a right turn with the tub and take it down the middle of the yard in a trench.

The other pic are just general photos of the work.

Its a good thing I do not do this for a living, I would have to fire myself.

Thanks for your help and input.

Roger

 

[gemini5362]

Your garage is coming along good. I need to get busy and post the pictures of my garage. I got really lucky I had the pad poured before the rains hit. We started framing last week the weather was in the 40,s and 50,s the last day we framed we had to finish putting up the wall with the garage doors it was 30 degrees with a 20mph wind so that was cold but only took us about three hours to get it up so not too bad. Weather here is really nice now. been in the high 60s all week. My son and i did all the sheating around the garage and has been gorgeous. My trusses are coming friday and the temp is supposed to be in the high 60 low 70's all through the weekend so I should be able to get the trusses up and decking up with good weather. I am going to hire the roofing done so I hope they get nice weather for that but if not It wont be me up on a cold roof. I do have one question for you. The way my garage was turned the headers for the garage doors had to hold the weight of the trusses. I have two 16 foot garage doors. When I did some engineering checks on the web they called for three 2 x 14s to carry the weight. I did some more checking and found I could do it with 2x12 Laminted Venier Lumber (LVL) do you have the same problem or is your trusses running the other way ?

 

[roermo]

gemini: My trusses are runing on the 26 ft (or widith) I am plaining on using 2x12 doubled up on a 18ft span for the door. Or at least this is what I have been told to do. I am ways from that point, I still have a lot of framing and I am now thinking I better cut and grade the drive before it gets to bad. My side yard is like a swamp from all the cement trucks and pick up in and out. I would hate to get my floor all muddy.

So this week end I might hand carry what little lumber I am going to use this week end for the back walls. Then the 1st of the week have 1 1/2 inch rock brought up after the grade work.

Good luck on your project and let us see some pictures, maybe it will give me hope that there is a way out of this mud whole I have started.

Roger

 

[EddieWalker]

I am plaining on using 2x12 doubled up on a 18ft span for the door. Or at least this is what I have been told to do.

Roger,

Be sure to put half inch plywood between your 2x12's. I also put a tube of liquid nails on each side of the plywood for large headers like that. Lots of glue and then I screw the hole thing together to get it really tight. The plywood will give you an amazing amount of strength. It will also make the two 2x12 the correct width of your studs.

I've seen allot of homes just put any half inch material between window and man door headers, but I always use the plywood with glue and screws.

I'm a little confused on your solution for the drain tube. From what I understand, it has to go past an area that you can only pour a very thin layer of concrete over it.

Two options that I can think of right now are to cut the plastic drain line and splice in a metal one for the area that you pour the concrete. The metal wont flex and should hold the thin concrete without cracking too bad. Maybe put expansion joints on either side of the pipe just to control it, and if it gets bad over the years, it will be a fairly easy job to remove and repour with something stronger.

Option two is to buy an open drain with a grate over it.

Thanks for posting the pictures and keeping us updated. It's allot of fun to watch your progress.

Eddie

 

[roermo]

Eddiewalker: thanks for the tip on the headers, I would not of thought about the glue and 1/2 plywood, and would of come up short.

As far as the drain tube: I have it laid on the footing on all three sides. But the east sid has a hill that fall to level ground about half way down the wall, so the promblem is where to end the drain tube. in the hill with a cap, or do I bring it to the front of the garage? The troulbe with that is it is almost ground level and in front is the drive way. Along side of it is the patio and my walk out door. I might try and draw it out. I am hoping I can cap it and there by force any waer to the other end.

I am starting to frame sat.
to date I have spent the following
1900 in the footing
1400 in walls
1500 in floor
450 in steel
2500 in labor for my brother in, well worth it.
600 in the pump truck
450 in back hoe
400 rock.
180 in some lumber.
total 9,380

I have this to finish
180 in studs
200 plywood
200 in headers
1200 in garage doors
300 in plywood for roof
700 in roofing
500 to get elec to garge.

total 3,080

toal projects $12,460

I will finish the interior later this winter when I get my saving built up, I am paying as I go. I just paid off my house a year ago and hated the idea of having a house payment again, but boy it hurts to let loose of the money. but I will sit in it know its mine and not the banks.

More pics as I go along
Thanks to you all I am moving ahead
Roger

 

[cmhyland]

Roger,
What about Windows , Man Door, Trim, Outdoor lighting fixtures?

Regards,
Chris

 

[roermo]

darn more money out the door, (pun) and I am sure there are other items I left out, like siding to cover up what little plywood I have on the out side. The front is going to be brick. I will use what I have left over from a room addition. With 18 ft doors there will not be much brick on a 26 foot wide front. The end gables will be sided like my brick house is. All in all I am just glad the cement is down that is where my money and worries came from. Framing should be at a more relaxed pace until the trussess come in next week.

any one have time to help me set them, never have done that before. any tips on how to set them by yourself or at best 3 guys. Not sure who will show up.

Roger

 

[EddieWalker]

If you cant lift them up in the upright positin, put them in upside down and flip them over. Start at the back and work your way forward.

After each one is upright, put some temporary bracing on top of each one that will connect to the previous one.

What is your spacing and what type of roof are you putting on? Are you going to deck the roof or use purlins?

Three guys are plenty, I've done it with one other without too much trouble.

Eddie

 

[roermo]

thanks, for the advise, the trusses are pre made 26 wide with 2 ft over hang, they have a load limit of 40 pound per sqft for my storage made of 2x4 extra bracing. . They will be set on 16 inch center with osb decking 1/2 inch is what I have been told but I am thinking 5/8 might be better for snow load etc.

I start framing tommorow and I will post some picks of my progress such as it will be. Hope I can tell square from curved.

Roger