Stove Pipe

   / Stove Pipe #11  
I have State Farm insurance on my house. For the first ten years we had a wood stove. Next ten year a pellet stove. Then electric heat. Electricity is very reasonable here in the PNW.

One thing my insurance agent told me. Be certain the stove is installed according to local and state fire codes. This includes the chimney.

Any house fire caused by a stove is sure to be checked for local and state compliance by the insurance company. For that matter - the insurance company may check the installation before they write a policy.
 
   / Stove Pipe #12  
Just to echo some of what others have said, chimney pipe is stupid expensive. Last year, I installed a wood stove in our 1900 sq ft basement b/c my son was living there at the time and the propane heater was costing us $600/ month to heat it. My son joined the Army halfway through the project, so I still need to add a piece or two of chimney before we run it. I kinda lost motivation when he left.
Duravent is the high end of chimney pipe, but is supposed to be the best.
 
   / Stove Pipe #13  
Yep! When I installed a wood stove in my house the stove cost $600 everything else cost close to $1000.
 
   / Stove Pipe
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I think I am going to go in a different direction. Thank you for all the input. I really do appreciate it. I don't think a pellet stove is the correct answer here. I think using my jet engine heater and focusing on insulation, proper vapor barriers, and then maybe something like a natural gas shop heater.
 
   / Stove Pipe #15  
I think I am going to go in a different direction. Thank you for all the input. I really do appreciate it. I don't think a pellet stove is the correct answer here. I think using my jet engine heater and focusing on insulation, proper vapor barriers, and then maybe something like a natural gas shop heater.
Let the internet calculators do the math on how much water a direct fire, unvented heater is going to put into your shop.
I tried that once in my machine room in winter. NEVER AGAIN! The frost on the cold machines was 1/2 inch thick (or so it seemed. And when it melted, RUST!

Never again!
 
   / Stove Pipe #16  
I agree with you a pellet stove does not seem like the right heater for your space.
But I also agree with CalG those torpedo heaters put out a BUNCH of water. In most instances it is a little less than a 1:1 ratio, if you burn a gallon of propane you get about 0.8 gallons of water released. That is a lot of water to introduce into your unventilated space.
 
   / Stove Pipe #17  
I have heard that this type of heater doesn't result in as much condensation as the salamander heaters do.
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Also even though many will squawk I have seen several shops heated with used forced air oil fired furnaces,
 
   / Stove Pipe #18  
I have heard that this type of heater doesn't result in as much condensation as the salamander heaters do.
View attachment 1209000

Also even though many will squawk I have seen several shops heated with used forced air oil fired furnaces,

The condensation is directly related to the fuel burned, though diesel (C10H12) heaters will produce a little less than natural gas (CH4), or propane (C3H8). All of the hydrogen turns into water when it burns.

For a shop, a heater that doesn't exhaust into the shop, I.e. indirect fire (wood/pellet stove or heat pump) will keep the shop drier.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Stove Pipe #19  
If you will have natural gas available, look into the on line cost of something like a Goodman forced air furnace. It's a low end product but they do work and can be installed by a DIY'er. If you go high efficiency you can vent with PVC.
 
   / Stove Pipe #20  
Neighbor in damp and humid Olympia WA has a complete shop and the wood stove always fired and the shop is very dry but he is retired and in the shop 7 days each week.

He has all the wood he can use for the sawing and splitting.

He told me he couldn’t imagine not having wood and paying for electric in retirement.
 
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