I have only had 1 transaction there but it was quite satisfactory. Bummer that you have had issues. Love the chains thoughI've had problems with windy-ridge before. Very disorganized!
I have only had 1 transaction there but it was quite satisfactory. Bummer that you have had issues. Love the chains thoughI've had problems with windy-ridge before. Very disorganized!
Step 1 is good,Step one reduce your rear tires pressure until the contact surface is flat.
Then get your ballast figured out.
Chains are only needed on crazy slopes like in the mountains, they work but are a pain. On the flat its all about ballast and contact.
Studs sounds like a very expensive procedure that will cause issues all summer.
Ballast is hugely important, If your too light you will just spin your tires. On a road compaction is not an issue, be as Heavy as practical.Step 1 is good,
2 so so,
3 No idea were you live or the conditions there or what you do, but;
chains can be livesavers many times.
Ballast can only do so much especially in wet heavy snow or ice.
And then there's the guys who have bought a tire grooving tool and have good results.Not sure about studs on tractor tires, but have always been told that pushing snow a turf style tire gets better traction on snow where as an R4 lug style tire is good in mud, turf tires come in some very big sizes for tractors now for medium size tractors
I just installed studs on my front R4's and posted some pics on the other forumHas anyone here made the decision to install studs rather than chains on the rear tractor tires for snowplowing? I have about 800' of a shale driveway.
Good choice or regret it.? Studs would cost aprox. $400.00
I just installed studs on my front R4's and posted some pics on the other forum
Wheel Studs vs Chains
I just got my Marrkey M6x20 wheel studs from Amazon, $50 for 100 studs. Why did I go with studs instead of chains? a. I have chains but I hate them. I use double ladders on my fronts only when it gets icy and I loose steering traction. They make a rough ride and tend to walk a little and I'm...www.orangetractortalks.com
I just posted my review on the other forum. They work surprisingly well, I just ordered a set of M6x18mm for my rear tires. Only $39/100 studs.interesting.....would like to hear how they work once you're able to try them out.
I'd think that you would need a few more studs in each tire so that more than one stud would be making contact. I'm thinking of studded car tires - going from just memory, but I think on each tire maybe three or four studs on each tire are making contact at the same time.
worse case is that you can just add more studs if they still slide too much.
Can you comment further on chains vs studs on hills? I have Hills.. WV Mountain type of hills (up to 30%+).. I've seen you response in my other snow thread (have studded chains currently), but would like to understand your insight. I am guessing it's more likely studs get 'ripped out' on the hills, but studs should get plenty of stress pushing large amounts of snow on flat surfaces as well.If you have hills and ice chains are needed. I run OFA EKO studded chains on my rear R4's and rarely need 4x4.
Studs work on hills up to a point but chains work better. Chains on asphalt on hills will tear up the asphalt if the tires do start spinning. The goal is to not let tires spin but sometimes you can't always meet all the goals.Can you comment further on chains vs studs on hills? I have Hills.. WV Mountain type of hills (up to 30%+).. I've seen you response in my other snow thread (have studded chains currently), but would like to understand your insight. I am guessing it's more likely studs get 'ripped out' on the hills, but studs should get plenty of stress pushing large amounts of snow on flat surfaces as well.