Stump Grinder Build

[swick1]

Id get a wheel plasma or laser cut with the holes already. It will make your balance perfect and is much less effort! I'd have it made. You wouldn't make your own hydraulic pump so why not do the same here?

You will want to consider a wet clutch to start and stop it or deal with stalls.

I would look into tapered roller bearings to spin it.

 

[Agent Blue]

I think there is a huge difference between drilling holes in a flat metal surface vs machining case, gears, and shafts for a hydraulic pump. I don't know where this comes in as there is no hydraulic pump in this project. There is no real science to laying out holes to be drilled and welding in a hub. Layout dye, scriber, center punch, and hammer. A Browning hub and a wheel ready to mount carbides ... about $100.00 Buying a factory wheel with hub setup for carbides....... probably $1500.00. I don't see the big deal about the balancing as it only turns 800 RPM while gouging wood chunks. At this point there is no balance or consistency due to different load intervals.
The whole point of building it in my shop is total build control. My choice of components, cost savings, adaptability to my specific usage ( large stumps ), quality of purchased parts and the ability to buy them locally vs buying them through a manufacturer at inflated cost due to off standard specifications.
The point of my post was the difference between using a 3/4" vs 1" wheel due to weight and drilling. There is also a cost factor difference in having 3/4" stock cut to 24" as I have not located any pre cut blanks. 1" is available and although a bit heavy for the task may be the best candidate.

 

[swick1]

1" will give more inertia which should improve performance a bit. Good luck!

 

[nuffer460]

I have to agree. 1" thick plate will not give up rotating mass as easily as 3/4". Think of it as a big flywheel with cutter teeth. It may even be a little smoother running. Just a thought.

 

[foggy1111]

If I were building a grinder, I'd take a close look at a Sandvick Wheel and Teeth....such as used on the Woods TSG50 grinder (and others).

I've ground stumps with grinders that employ other types of teeth....but these Sandvick teeth and wheel are the real deal. After grinding 1000 (mostly red pine) stumps....my grinder teeth are still in good condition on my Woods TSG50. Never replaced a tooth or sharpened them. Other types of cupped teeth would have been replaced numerous times.

Still....mounting the sandvick teeth would not be an easy proposition.....at least the way I've seen it done.

 

[swick1]

Sandvik is serious business. They supply our machine shop with lathe and mill tooling exclusively.

 

[Agent Blue]

I think there is a huge difference between drilling holes in a flat metal surface vs machining case, gears, and shafts for a hydraulic pump. I don't know where this comes in as there is no hydraulic pump in this project. There is no real science to laying out holes to be drilled and welding in a hub. Layout dye, scriber, center punch, and hammer. A Browning hub and a wheel ready to mount carbides ... about $100.00 Buying a factory wheel with hub setup for carbides....... probably $1500.00. I don't see the big deal about the balancing as it only turns 800 RPM while gouging wood chunks. At this point there is no balance or consistency due to different load intervals.
The whole point of building it in my shop is total build control. My choice of components, cost savings, adaptability to my specific usage ( large stumps ), quality of purchased parts and the ability to buy them locally vs buying them through a manufacturer at inflated cost due to off standard specifications.
The point of my post was the difference between using a 3/4" vs 1" wheel due to weight and drilling. There is also a cost factor difference in having 3/4" stock cut to 24" as I have not located any pre cut blanks. 1" is available and although a bit heavy for the task may be the best candidate.

I stand corrected. One on line shop ad listed a wheel, cutters, bearings and shaft for $2895.00. It appears my $1500 estimate is a bit short. Pulleys for the poly belts were $300. plus. Makes my two grand budget look a bit on the minus side for the whole project. Sounds like they sell the Rolls Royce of grinders parts. I plan on building the Chevrolet version. For my purposes I bet it will work just fine.

 

[Rustyiron]

That sounds pretty close to perfect. You can rent a "magnetic base" drill press that uses annular cutters. That and a little cutting oil & you're done by 10am.

 

[JonCbx25guy]

What about the liability if someone gets hurt? I bought the Woods TSG 50...love it and it is safe. I have it mounted on a Kubota BX25 and works fine. Have ground about 50 stumps of all species, and the paint is still on most of the carbide teeth.......

 

[Renze]

What about the liability if someone gets hurt?

"Nothing is unsafe as long as you can oversee the risks and know what you're doing" quote from a firefighter training.

 

[Agent Blue]

Jon;
We need more people like you that scare at the sound of liability. These people never take a chance and buy the premium stuff. I am happy they do so the big companies can get tax breakes, make huge profits, and put a couple dimes into research.

Getting back to the liability, smooth sole shoes are slippery on ice. I should get a cell phone and put an attorney on speed dial in the event this happens.... can't be too careful.
A steel shield covering the grinder wheel should contain most of the debris. Nothing is 100%
I also heard if you have good health insurance ....... NOTHING will ever diminish your physical / mental health status.

 

[muddstopper]

If you can get it for $45, you better jump on the deal. Careful measureing and drilling and the balance will be close. I dont know if what I am about to suggest will work, been told it does on bushhog stumpjumpers, but once the center hole is bored and the hub mounted, take it to a tire shop with a speed balanceing machine. Using a large bore shaft should allow the wheel to fit on the balancer. Take with you a grinder and grind off the excess weight until you get it close to balance. If the tire shop has a welder, you can run a few beads to help get the balance you want.

 

[Agent Blue]

I have been to several yards and this is the only example close to what I want. They had a couple left. I am sure it would cost alot more to have one cut as a special order. They have some cute 6' ones too. Have no idea what to use them for but sometimes my wants truely exceed my NEEDS !
A pilot hole in the center attached to a welded jig would line up the holes at the edge with good consistancy. I believe the balance would be close enough due to the low rpm and the chipping action taking place. The heavy wheel will also dampen the bouncing effect.
Makes one feel better working out some of the details in areas where the major functions take place.