Stump grinder project - need some input

[Jim Timber]

I would use plain bearings instead of the pillow blocks, and I'd change the pivot geometry a bit. With the u-joint on the clutch, full retract and lift causes some vibration that's above what I like. With a bit of adjustment, that could be removed while retaining the same amount of swing.

Power down pressure would also be nice to control chatter. The frame is heavy enough it doesn't hop like the Woods grinder Foggy has, but it's still not "planted" like a stand-alone grinder.

I'd also add root busters on the inner areas of the wheel. Something with hardfaced rod edges maybe? Just so the stuff that's out of reach of the cutters still gets hooked or chewed on.

For a first attempt, I couldn't be happier. Big, little, fresh, old - it erases them.

 

[Rustyiron]

For a first attempt, I couldn't be happier. Big, little, fresh, old - it erases them.

You deserve to be:thumbsup:

 

[Reg]

I have a Woods TSC50 grinder on the 3 pt.
It shakes, it SHAKES the tractor, even with its ground frame planted firmly.
I forget how many teeth are on it, but they are left right and center.

3 teeth in the cut rule ? Fine for when you know what the "cut" is,
In reality you will strike voids as you chew through stumps of trees that have rotted from the inside out - often the reason the stump is THERE to be ground.
Then just ABOVE grade you hit rocks - and you WILL want to grind a bit below grade.
They either get pulled up as the tree grows, or the roots form around them, not sure which but they ARE THERE and your wheel WILL hit them.
Then the tractor jumps and if you hook a rock the clutch MIGHT slip, or the tractor might stall.

Ahhh, that response was from reading only a few of the early replies - with the 2 tooth wheel thing.
Pleased to see you went for a LOT of teeth in various rows.
Be very careful when swinging while cutting, it is quite possible to quickly wear out a wheel from the sides - i.e. don't cut deep and "plane" the stump with the side of the wheel.

 

[Jim Timber]

I have 24 teeth, 3 groups, 4 rows per, 120° out from one another. As mentioned, 24° radial spacing per tooth (which brings them closer together as they move towards center) except the 4th row which is off whatever the hole centers are for the pockets.

If I take a big bite, I can get some vibration (chatter) into the frame and then into the tractor, but nothing like Foggy's Woods. The 2.5" 3/16" wall tubing the cutter head mounts to is likely to blame for that - I don't think it's heavy enough to prevent it. It is heavy enough to be very useable though.

I see the sparks from rocks, but I've been blessed to have not encountered any big ones (yet).

 

[woodlandfarms]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...mp-grinder-build.html?highlight=stump+grinder

This is my build. Wish I had a machine shop and the skill like you. Had to farm my wheel out and had to find a connecting system for the wheel to the shaft.

Love more info on yours... keep it coming.

 

[Jim Timber]

What else do you want to know? It's kind of a pain posting pics via my phone, and I won't be home for a few more days. I will answer any questions you have.

I did discover Weasler's idea of heavy duty, well, isn't. :laughing:





So I ended up spending $500 building a Series 7 shaft with double disk clutch to make sure that didn't become a habit. I made it 6 stumps on that first shaft.

So anyway... ask away!

 

[farm boy00]

What else do you want to know? It's kind of a pain posting pics via my phone, and I won't be home for a few more days. I will answer any questions you have.

I did discover Weasler's idea of heavy duty, well, isn't. :laughing:

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/FishyJim/media/Tractor/20150905_202724-1.jpg.html

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/FishyJim/media/Tractor/20150904_204319.jpg.html

So I ended up spending $500 building a Series 7 shaft with double disk clutch to make sure that didn't become a habit. I made it 6 stumps on that first shaft.

So anyway... ask away!

Holy crap that's twisted. How did you do a new one? ?

 

[Jim Timber]

I bought all the parts from Agri Supply. No one around me carried the bigger shafting or components. The new one I built has more sleeve engagement too. It was a good investment, and still only cost about $200 more than the off-the-shelf weasler stuff.

 

[Jim Timber]

Some more pics now that I'm on my laptop.

So this was just plain dumb luck, as I couldn't retract the cylinder at my shop and just had to go off measurements and hope the geometry was right. The original head tilt flange was out further from the cylinder rod pivot pin flanges. There's no contact at the collar or the hose fitting, but it's real close!

I'm going to make a bulkhead for these and re-do the connections, but this was what it took in off the shelf parts to get my valve connected.

 

[Jim Timber]

The original head pivot bearings didn't hold up to the abuse.

Ended up changing the ends on the top cylinder from the clevis' that it came with.

Having a bridge crane really comes in handy!

First check of the cutter clearance.

Getting thing's situated

More high tech sharpie drafting

You can see here, my first layout didn't provide enough room for the flange.

Ends are pressed and welded in.

With a relief groove for the seam