Subcompact for hilly 3-acre

   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #1  

bbh03

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Hi All:

Considering a subcompact for property maintenance and landscaping projects. I have been looking at Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and currently leaning toward a MF GC1723 configured at a TLB.

My property (residential, New Jersey):
3 acre
quite hilly
rocky soil
mostly wooded

Needs/wants:
Material movement, in particular, logs, split wood, mulch, soil, gravel
Would like a BH for planting shrubs and building retaining walls, grading for shed, etc
Do not need a mid mower (walk behind fine for my small lawn)
Possible snow clearing
Fork attachment would be nice

Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Thanks,

Brian
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #2  
Welcome to TBN.

Lot threads over the years on this topic.

If you got time on your hands subcompact will do the task but you may want to consider....
Loaded rear tires and tire chains,if yes on chains make sure if wheel spacers are needed.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #4  
Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Should be, yes, but there will be a learning curve about when, where and how quickly you can or cannot turn. Do it wrong and you end up rolled over.

Look into the new R14s. I have R4s and they're all but useless on anything but dry grass.

They can be added, but usually cost MUCH more. Also, you really want one matched to the tractor.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #5  
Welcome. Familiar with NJ hills. Lived there for 20 years just west of Morristown.

For hilly terrain, you need a Kubota B or JD 2 series for clearance. We have a back hill down through woods here in central Va. Had a JD 1025R for a couple years but had a JD 2 series before that for nearly 9. Now have a JD 2025R.

We use a couple walkbehinds here for our little bit of lawn around the house but have another 8 acres in woods and bottom land along the creek. A B or 2 will do the other chores you want done but not a BX nor a 1.

Had turfs on the 4010 first JD 2 series. Lots of troubles with the fronts. Just not tough enough for loader work. Absolutely NO tire trouble with R4s the last 7 years.

R4s are good to/fro in snow, but you need turning brakes. JD seems to have dropped these in their 1 and 2 series.

Ralph
 
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   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #6  
" I have R4s and they're all but useless on anything but dry grass."
Seems like everytime tires are mentioned there are posts as to how worthless the R4's are.
I have R4's on my Kioti and they are loaded. They work great on grass, on gravel and dirt and on hills. Also heard they dont work in snow and I have had no issues there either. I add chains if the snow gets deep.
Maybe if I was pulling a plow I would think differently. Guess its like anything.... You learn to use what you have. Also I am in 4WD most all the time because of lots of 15 degree plus hills. I do like the width of them as well for stability.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #7  
Yes, the tractors you listed will do the jobs described, but just a little bit bigger may provide some added weight, bigger tires, more ground clearance.

For example, going up from the Kioti CS2510 to the CK2510.... a bit bigger, more capable, but not too big.
Another example, the LS MT125 compared to the MT225-S.... a step bigger, but not getting into the "compact" size. There are a few LS dealers in NJ.

Definitely get a BH with the machine as a package when you purchase. Buying one after the initial sale could cost almost double. You will find many uses for a BH, especially if it has a thumb attached.

Good luck with your search!
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #8  
Seems like everytime tires are mentioned there are posts as to how worthless the R4's are.
I have R4's on my Kioti and they are loaded. They work great on grass, on gravel and dirt and on hills. Also heard they dont work in snow and I have had no issues there either. I add chains if the snow gets deep.
Maybe if I was pulling a plow I would think differently. Guess its like anything.... You learn to use what you have. Also I am in 4WD most all the time because of lots of 15 degree plus hills. I do like the width of them as well for stability.
Agree! I haven't had any traction issues using R4's. Even clearing snow off a 2400' long driveway .... 18" worth... just kept on pushing it no problem.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #9  
Seems like everytime tires are mentioned there are posts as to how worthless the R4's are.
I have R4's on my Kioti and they are loaded. They work great on grass, on gravel and dirt and on hills.
On DRY grass, they're fine. On wet grass or mud, they're worthless. I still have the ruts from a few weeks back trying to get uphill with no load at all. They'd just spin, slip and slide, all four. I had to back down hill and try a different route over some better grass. That second attempt failed also. I almost didn't make it the third time either.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #10  
Another satisfied r4 tire guy here. I got hills, I mow, I plow my driveway, I dig stuff up with the hoe, a tear stuff up with the ratchet rake...my r4 tires handle all that just fine. My tires aren't loaded, and I don't use chains. Sometimes you just gotta use the locking diff along with the 4wd, but that's what it's there for.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for all the responses!

Tires I will have to figure out but I suppose I need to decide on a machine first.

I hadn't considered ground clearance - The MF I'm looking at is 6" but that appears to be under the diff - there is more clearance than that between axles. AmI looking at getting stuck in the woods with that? And yes, west of Morristown!

For the BH, I guess I am trying to figure if it makes sense at all. For walls and such, I could hire that work out to a more capable machine and operator for the times I need it vs paying an extra 8-10k for the accessory. Although I'm sure I could find uses for it here and there.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #12  
Thanks for all the responses!

Tires I will have to figure out but I suppose I need to decide on a machine first.

I hadn't considered ground clearance - The MF I'm looking at is 6" but that appears to be under the diff - there is more clearance than that between axles. AmI looking at getting stuck in the woods with that? And yes, west of Morristown!

For the BH, I guess I am trying to figure if it makes sense at all. For walls and such, I could hire that work out to a more capable machine and operator for the times I need it vs paying an extra 8-10k for the accessory. Although I'm sure I could find uses for it here and there.
It all depends in regards to the backhoe. I was originally just looking for a tractor with just a loader, but got a deal on my gc1710. I've ended up using the backhoe quite a bit, actually. You find uses for it besides just digging. Get a thumb for sure. And btw, I'm on 2.6 acres, my property slopes down into a floodway, so hilly and all that. So sounds like could be a little like yours. You'd want a skid plate if you're going in places like the woods, but this little machine is pretty capable. People here so hung up on "ground clearance", relax already! If you get stuck, you could climb out out with the loader, and especially if you also have the backhoe. It's fun, I love getting stuck.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #14  
Small tractor wheels drop into holes, disrupting traction. Larger wheels and tires supplied on heavier tractors bridge holes and ruts, increasing traction. Larger wheels and tires permit higher operating speed over uneven ground by reducing implement bounce and operator perturbation.



ANOTHER VIDEO:
 
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   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #15  
I have 10 acres of wooded property with some sloped areas. This is a very tough choice to make. Over a decade ago I bought a Kubota B2620.

It has loaded R4 tires. They work great in all conditions, gravel, grass (wet or dry), snow too. Your choice today will really be R4 or turf. R14s are in short supply from what I hear, very hard to find.

Size of tractor is a very important decision. If you need to go off of a groomed path/lawn, you need bigger than a sub-compact. I needed to remove some tree rounds from an area off of the trails. My B2620 (a small CUT) was barely big enough (ground clearance) to get there. No way would a SCUT have been able to the job without first leveling the access path, which would have taken at least three times as long and has lasting impact.

Now, the downside of high ground clearance is higher center of gravity. I have never tipped my B, but it certainly feels like it could be easy. I have lots of slopes in the 10, and 15+ degrees category. I won't go on 15+, but even 10 doesn't feel safe. Since I had to make a lot of trips on my trail (with side slope) I started to fix it, which certainly helps. I am looking at rear wheel spacers, which should also help. But, they make the tractor wider, which also has some disadvantages.

There are lots of videos of people using their equipment that will give you an idea of their capabilities. I like Tractor Tim with Tim. He has done some comparison videos too. He started with a Deere 1025R, but now has bigger tractors and even a Kubota. His Kubota LX is the new big B sized tractor. It looks nice but too big for my property. There is also a guy in Canada with a B2601 (the next generation of my tractor, which now has real position control on the 3PH, the one thing I wish I had that I can not add after the fact).

A lot of people love their backhoes. I wanted one for years. I still do. But, not enough to actually pay for it. When I purchased my B, the backhoe was about $7K extra. I think they are similarly priced now. I have seen the LS MT122 with backhoe for $4K extra. At that price, I might have bought it. But, the thing with a backhoe is how often do you need it there vs how hard is it to remove when you NEED it NOT there. Also, where are you going to store it when you don't want it on the machine. A backhoe will give your tractor is a really big butt. Sometimes (as ballast) that is a really good thing, other times (when you bash it into something that you value, accidentally, and damage it and the other thing you value) it is a real liability. I have a QA loader (the loader comes off easily) but I have never removed it, even in a few cases where I maybe should have (just using a rear implement and working in a tight area). I now have a QA for my bucket. Now that I know how easy it is to use, I don't think twice about taking off the bucket and reducing the size or putting a different implement on it.

So, think about the actual tasks you want to accomplish. Then think about which implements you need for those tasks. Then think about amount of those things, and how much time you have to do them, and how many times a year you might need to do them. Around here (PNW) one of the tractor dealers has a monthly rental program. The standard rental places all typically have tractors for rent. I would suggest renting one for at least a few days and use it on your property to see what it feels like. Does it feel tippy, too big, too small, does it do what you imagined. I know it seems expensive at many hundreds of dollars, but buying the wrong size tractor is a much more expensive mistake. There are brand differences, and some of them are very important, but size is the first thing to figure out.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #16  
Hi All:

Considering a subcompact for property maintenance and landscaping projects. I have been looking at Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and currently leaning toward a MF GC1723 configured at a TLB.

My property (residential, New Jersey):
3 acre
quite hilly
rocky soil
mostly wooded

Needs/wants:
Material movement, in particular, logs, split wood, mulch, soil, gravel
Would like a BH for planting shrubs and building retaining walls, grading for shed, etc
Do not need a mid mower (walk behind fine for my small lawn)
Possible snow clearing
Fork attachment would be nice

Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Thanks,

Brian
When I bought my 2010 GC2610 I was told the factory will void the warranty if the hoe is not factory installed.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #17  
A 1723 will do all that you listed and then some. We use one on our farmette and commercially. I’ve done just about every tractor job you can think of with it at home and for customers.

If you think you want a BH, get it. You will use it. Never had an issue with R4s, I chain up for snow. I live across the border in PA, same terrain.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #18  
Power-trac.com

Several models will do what you want but the 1850 is good all around machine is you are on hills.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #19  
If you want a backhoe get it with the tractor at the time of purchase.....
Total agree for 2 main reasons. The compatibility issues should all be dealt with by the dealer prior to taking possession. Otherwise, if there is a design change you may have plumbing issues to overcome, as well as just basic mounting changes to deal with. The dealer may or may not be as helpful to sort these out. Also if not ordered as a TLB, you may not have needed hydraulic components included.
The second concern if the $$$$, or more specifically the financing of $$$$. At tractor purchase implements/attachments are frequently rolled into the overall financing program. Later purchases may not be eligible for financing or at not nearly as attractive programs/rates.
Good luck on your shopping!
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #20  
Because you said that you are leaning toward a GC.

My property is extremely hilly. I have a 1725M, no BH. If you want the BH it you must get it that way. I cannot add one later because the frame on the tractor is completely different, or if I can it will be extremely expensive and would likely just buy a new tractor instead.

If you're not worried about damaging your lawn then R1 (AG) tires, but I guess that's my personal preference.

You will want to get the tires filled for the stability even if you don't need the traction.

I use mine for mowing but I don't concern myself with lawn damage, ground is hard and the only time it might happen is in early spring when the ground is soft from melt. I mow across some steep hills without a problem and that was before I added the spacers with only the filled tires.

Whether or not you put chains on it you'll want to get spacers Bro-Tek for the added stability. If you do put chains on it then the spacers are a must because there less than 1/4" of clearance on the inside of the left wheel. You cannot flip the wheels, they are the same depth inside and out.
 

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