Sunroom ideas - Help!

[skidoo]

I have too many project ideas, but this one has taken priority! We purchased a hot tub and plan to put a concrete pad where the tractor is parked. To do that, we have some other work to do and find that this covered deck is old enough to be replaced with something better. The wife has always wanted it fully screened to keep the bugs out, and I have always wanted a sun room. We are willing to compromise and put glass all around as long as there are plenty of screens that can be opened for Summer.

So, we had a contractor propose a design for us. They would use a very similar structural design, but use larger timber, and better concrete supports. They would put a real floor with plywood and maybe slate flooring rather than the deck flooring it presently has. The truss area would be all glass, and the railing would be walls. The spaces in the middle would be fully screened and constructed such that windows can be inserted or removed. We would plan for two or three glass French doors, one of which would open to the new hot tub area.

Now, the wife is ready to just go for it. But, I always find little details that need further consideration and need time. One of the things we want is a very good seal to keep the fall insects out as much as possible as we have a seasonal attraction of flies, lady bugs, and stink bugs in the fall. Now for the details that need further consideration:

1) If it is nicely sealed or even with some screens open, the Gable End of the house is vented into this new room. I am thinking that this may cause serious issues either with excessive heat in summer or improper humidity at other times. Any ideas to best avoid these potential issues? Would I need to cap the gable end ventilation and install a different roof ventilation system?

2) The project is already looking like a lot of $$. But, I am thinking that the enclosed space, being about 10' or so x 30' will be too narrow. As long as I've been here, it has always seemed tight on space. We do have an 8 ft long pick nick table on there. The Wife thinks it is fine and we just have too much stuff on the deck. Since it is being re-built, I am thinking to go out another 2, 3 or even 5 feet. Problem is, the existing roof was to be re-used. Is the extra space worth it to have that portion of the roof re-built too? Opinions? The tree in the picture is now Gone. I still have to get the stump out but is not the point of this thread.

3) The new daylight, no bug space is attractive, but will be obtained at the expense of a) no more grilling under roof right off the kitchen door. I'll have to find a new grilling spot such as the uncovered portion of the deck. b) I'll have to find a new path to carry firewood into the house. c) The Seasonal AC unit will have to be mounted in another window out back.

4) Improvement in fire risk. Presently, I have always been concerned about firebrands falling onto the deck surface and how to combat such a situation. So far, I have hoped that running sprinklers over the whole deck during such risk could help. But, with this new deck design, sun room design, the glass and screen should reduce the risk of firebrands collecting in at risk areas. We are also looking at Timber Tech products for the decking. Is this fire resistant for such a situation?

5) Any particular glass design I should insist upon?

6) Any better ideas for an improvement approach to this end of the house?

7) Any thing else I have forgot to consider?

Thanks for your input!

 

[mbohuntr]

I wonder about the high humidity fogging the glass? A neighbor had one in her basement and there was always mold . she also ran a dehumidifier constantly.

 

[radioman]

Three ideas come to mind. One is keep existing roof and put in a trianagle windows and then add another 10 ft of roof sloping out. Or second idea is that since I see you have at least 3 ft of space under and dig out another 10 ft and have another deck underneath for open shaded area and have simple stone steps leading up and out. you would have one covered space above for hottub, and one open below. Third idea would keep existing plans you had and salvage the old decking and use that to build a lower/open deck attached to it. kinda like a split level decking, one closed and one open.

As for the questions you have, sorry no opinions come to mind at the moment. good luck. maybe other would be more helpful.

 

[yooperdave]

Make sure you can structurally justify the support under a large tub of water.

Water is heavy and sometimes the occupants of the tub can be pretty heavy as well (I speak from my own experience...)

I designed a deck supporting a swimming pool over a guy's garage in Chicago a long time ago. He had no room for a pool otherwise.

Yooper Dave

 

[mikim]

We have a hot tub/spa in a screen room now. The room is 18x20, The spa is 8x8 -- unless you plan on having spa parties you can do with a smaller spa - our next one will be a 3 seater instead of this 5-6 seater. AND I want to add a sauna -- around $1500 -- You want 2-3 feet of space around the spa- at least 2 sides - 3 is better. This is for access and tables/shelves to sit your drinks.

 

[skidoo]

The hot tub will be on a 15x15x 4" concrete pad, located about where the tractor is in the picture, which will be outside under the sky, not inside the deck. We figured that since we need to do concrete work there, we may as well re-do the deck.

I'm primarily concerned with making a mistake with enclosing the deck without addressing the main house vent which presently is a screen located at each gable end of the house.

 

[skidoo]

I wonder about the high humidity fogging the glass? A neighbor had one in her basement and there was always mold . she also ran a dehumidifier constantly.

Just to clarify,

The Hot Tub will be outside, not inside the covered deck. I still have a concern with humidity due to the house roof ventilation presently there.

 

[skidoo]

We have a hot tub/spa in a screen room now. The room is 18x20, The spa is 8x8 -- unless you plan on having spa parties you can do with a smaller spa - our next one will be a 3 seater instead of this 5-6 seater. AND I want to add a sauna -- around $1500 -- You want 2-3 feet of space around the spa- at least 2 sides - 3 is better. This is for access and tables/shelves to sit your drinks.

Do you find that you have sufficient ventilation through the screens?

 

[JB4310]

This site may give you some ideas, I put one on my house last spring, added a 8x16 green house to a 8x16 screen room.


***Florian Greenhouse*** Sun rooms Conservatories Greenhouses and sun room kits

pictures, including some of the 6 windows and 2 opposing sliders.

JB

 

[skidoo]

This site may give you some ideas, I put one on my house last spring, added a 8x16 green house to a 8x16 screen room.


***Florian Greenhouse*** Sun rooms Conservatories Greenhouses and sun room kits

pictures, including some of the 6 windows and 2 opposing sliders.

JB

I have always liked that style. But, due to the particular layout and style of this house, it appears that I will be limited to something added at this gable end of the house.

 

[JB4310]

I have always liked that style. But, due to the particular layout and style of this house, it appears that I will be limited to something added at this gable end of the house.

Yeah I saw your picture, that will be a nice space when you close it in. I thought maybe that company offered gable end fill ins?

That's alot of glass you'll need there, will get pricey.

I got a good bang for the buck with mine, makes my first floor seem bigger now, I have a door from the living room and one from the dining room. made that narrow screen porch that got crowded with 3 people, now we had 20 people seated at 2 banquet tables at thanksgiving and room for serving table as well.

Mine was simple to spec, it was a standard size and fit with little rough in, even the roof angles are close.

Good Luck, JB.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

can you replace the gable screens with ridge vent?
pretty quick, simple, and economical to do, and would solve the potential excess heat issue in the summer.

 

[MarkV]

Like Erik said, add a ridge vent and eliminate the gable end vent.

MarkV

 

[Gittyup]

I would go with low-E glass. Big glass means it should (probably has to) be tempered too. This will keep the temperature moderate. Want to make it seem bigger? Knock down the whole wall and make it a year round space. You'll be glad you did. Heat and cool it with a mini split heat pump and maybe a stove or gas fireplace.

There are a lot of ways to get a "Sun" room. Consider true floor to ceiling windows and fixed, but ventable skylights. Casements give you the best view, but have to allow for space opening outward. Nice full length screens can either be left in year round or taken out.

I did a similar project 3 years ago. Took out 26' of load bearing wall to add a 16 x 26' addition. Used 9' walls on new part with cathedral ceilings (scissor trusses). 7' tall windows and matching doors all around. Four fixed skylights with shades. Heat it with direct vent propane fireplace (furnace rated). Cool it with mini split and one giant ceiling fan. Beautiful! Absolutely love it. My smotheringly small 9 x 10 kitchen now feels 4 times as big.

Whatever you do, invest in good high quality windows and doors. They will make a big difference in longevity, performance, beauty, and resale value.

A lot of work goes into these things, planning and such. Take your time. Design is the key. You can get a beautiful room without spending more by just taking the time to think it out. Then think it out again and again.

Also note that you get a tax break for installing energy efficient windows, doors, and HVAC equipment.

 

[Redneck in training]

Does the roof ventilation has a fan? If it does reverse the flow so fresh air will be drawn into your new sunroom and exhaust on the other side of the house. If it doesn't have a fan add one that is thermostat operated. Make sure that is quiet.

 

[Redneck in training]

We have a hot tub/spa in a screen room now. The room is 18x20, The spa is 8x8 -- unless you plan on having spa parties you can do with a smaller spa - our next one will be a 3 seater instead of this 5-6 seater. AND I want to add a sauna -- around $1500 -- You want 2-3 feet of space around the spa- at least 2 sides - 3 is better. This is for access and tables/shelves to sit your drinks.

Mike,
Your estimate for cost of sauna is IMO way too low as sauna is very expensive wooden box. I built small two person 5'X8' sauna in my house more than about 10 years ago, we did all the work by ourselves and still spent around $2500 just for the cheapest wood I could find, $150 for the door and around $1000 for the electric heater. The wood has to be absolutely clear without even small nuts at least in the places where you can get in contact with it. Nuts will burn you.
Ladia.

 

[Slackdaddy]

10' is to narrow, and with it 30' long - can you say bowling alley ?
12' wide, the 2' will make a major diff.

Slack

 

[mikim]

Do you find that you have sufficient ventilation through the screens?
plenty -- the screen room is between the house and garage so is only screened on 2 sides -- I kept a close eye on the ceiling for awhile for moisture as the ceiling is particle board -- but there has been no problem. The screens are from 18" from the floor to the ceiling -- It's made like those Florida rooms with the plastic windows that slide up and down. The spa sits in a corner with shelves on the 2 corner sides.

 

[mikim]

on the sauna -- I saw one at the Houston home show last week that they wanted $2000 for -- a quick search on the internet shows you can buy one for around $1500 --- All are the IR type that I was looking at. -- 2 seaters - Takes 115v 15 amp and reaches 140 degrees. AND that's all I know about that ..... other than using a commercial one several times at different places .... I've never seen a private one other than that one at the home show.

 

[Redneck in training]

on the sauna -- I saw one at the Houston home show last week that they wanted $2000 for -- a quick search on the internet shows you can buy one for around $1500 --- All are the IR type that I was looking at. -- 2 seaters - Takes 115v 15 amp and reaches 140 degrees. AND that's all I know about that ..... other than using a commercial one several times at different places .... I've never seen a private one other than that one at the home show.

I also checked the internet for sauna prices. It seems to me that they are somewhat (and unexpectedly) cheaper than when I was building my. May be they sell more of them.
As I said before the quality of wood is very important. When assembling the walls sort the boards and put the boards with nuts under the seats and high on walls and ceiling. Use only the best clear boards for the area just above the seating.