Synthetic oil - roughly the same
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GSXR.. as I said earlier in this thread... I was already using Amsoil prior to this thread. I questioned you about 15w-40 in NC since the first fluids change, I used the Series 3000 HD 5W-30.
You have successfully talked me into going with the 15w-40 now, but let me now throw one more pickle into the jar.
I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl and a Montero Sport with the larger 6 in it. I previous have been using Amsoil 10w-30 in them. It would really be nice to be able to buy in larger quantities, say 30 or 55 gallons, and use the same thing in all. Would you recommend using the HD Diesel and Marine 15w-40 in all 3 engines? It is my understanding that the diesel oil surpasses gas rated oils... so in my limited understanding of this, it should work great right?
You have successfully talked me into going with the 15w-40 now, but let me now throw one more pickle into the jar.
I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl and a Montero Sport with the larger 6 in it. I previous have been using Amsoil 10w-30 in them. It would really be nice to be able to buy in larger quantities, say 30 or 55 gallons, and use the same thing in all. Would you recommend using the HD Diesel and Marine 15w-40 in all 3 engines? It is my understanding that the diesel oil surpasses gas rated oils... so in my limited understanding of this, it should work great right?
Usually the diesel oils have a better additive package in them. Most car oils are now like 0-30 or 5-30 for EPA reasons. Having said the I am looking at there 10-30 (ATM) and there 15-40 HDD&M (AME) .
This is what I find:
10w-30 has a higher TBN then 15w-40...WEIRD
Noack Volatility is the same on both
Four Ball Wear Test is the same on both
10w-30 has a pumping temp of –47 F and 15w-40 has –27 F
CCS Viscosity is within like 5%
Viscosity Index is about the same
Kinematic Viscosity of the 15w-40 is thicker @ 100 C
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C is thinner with the 10w-30.
It is up to you. Will you be “working the oil”. I only ask since both will more then likely thin out during their service life.
This is what I find:
10w-30 has a higher TBN then 15w-40...WEIRD
Noack Volatility is the same on both
Four Ball Wear Test is the same on both
10w-30 has a pumping temp of –47 F and 15w-40 has –27 F
CCS Viscosity is within like 5%
Viscosity Index is about the same
Kinematic Viscosity of the 15w-40 is thicker @ 100 C
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C is thinner with the 10w-30.
It is up to you. Will you be “working the oil”. I only ask since both will more then likely thin out during their service life.
I'm not sure what you mean by working the oil, but I run 10,000 miles between changes on both vehicles. Neither my wife or myself are hard drivers and I don't pull things very often with either vehicle. The tractor gets the you know what worked out of it.
I plan on digging a 3 sided oil change pit into the side of a hill below my garage this spring. Should be possible with only the FEL, but we shall soon find out.
It would be nice to run the same thing in all of them. Please explain TBN.
I plan on digging a 3 sided oil change pit into the side of a hill below my garage this spring. Should be possible with only the FEL, but we shall soon find out.
It would be nice to run the same thing in all of them. Please explain TBN.
AndyM
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<font color="blue"> Please explain TBN. </font>
It's a really neat forum where 15,000 people get together and talk about tractors and other exciting things! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
It's a really neat forum where 15,000 people get together and talk about tractors and other exciting things! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Archdean
Silver Member
OK Oil gurus I'm impressed but for morons like me, in other words (Dipstick Checkers)!!
I have a mix of diesel engines and gasoline engines, would you condense all of this into a guide of what I should buy for each!!
As A commercial pilot w/over 10,000 hours I am well acquainted with the argument between Dino and Synthetic oils!!
To reduce this even further What should I stock for 3 Kubota Diesels and 6 or so Gasoline Engines?
Thanks in advance for answering my question!
I have a mix of diesel engines and gasoline engines, would you condense all of this into a guide of what I should buy for each!!
As A commercial pilot w/over 10,000 hours I am well acquainted with the argument between Dino and Synthetic oils!!
To reduce this even further What should I stock for 3 Kubota Diesels and 6 or so Gasoline Engines?
Thanks in advance for answering my question!
MikePA
Super Moderator
<font color="blue"> To reduce this even further What should I stock for 3 Kubota Diesels and 6 or so Gasoline Engines? </font>
What are the API requirements for each engine? Once you have these, find the oil that meets all of them. Amsoil 10W-30 meets API specs SL, SJ, CF. Their 5W-30 meets API SL, SJ, SH, CF. I'd guess either one of these would meet the requirements of all your engines.
What are the API requirements for each engine? Once you have these, find the oil that meets all of them. Amsoil 10W-30 meets API specs SL, SJ, CF. Their 5W-30 meets API SL, SJ, SH, CF. I'd guess either one of these would meet the requirements of all your engines.
The Total Base Number (TBN) is a measure of the engines oil's ability to neutralize any acid forming material that is formed during the burning stage of the fuel.
Usually the higher the TBN, means it will fight acids better. It sometimes happens like that and sometimes not. It depends how good the additive pkg is. With today’s Epa driving the level of the oils, the oils need to be able to take “more junk” in the oil. As I noted in older posts, the TBN will get depleted overtime. The “trick” the oil people are trying to do is slow the rate of change. You could have a TBN of like 13 but the additive pkg is poor and it drops like a rock. You could have a 11.1 TBN and it drops more linear and slower.
As Dargo stated wonderfully, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif, it is not 100% that the oil is great with a high TBN, but I would rather have a high or higher TBN then some other oil starting at lets say 6 or 8.
Most times if the TBN is high along with a high ZDDP pkg, you are good to go.
Also the ash comes into play, not integral but some oils have ash. I would not want ash in my oil for reasons stated above. But if your Noack Volatility (NV) is high, means you will use more oil. If you use more oil, the ash level will rise in % with a high NV since the ash does not disappear. This NV I consider it like evaporation. So unless you top off ASAP, I would rather have zero ash in my oil.
Think of it like this, I have a salt-water fish tank and I got some evaporation due to no tank tops (which I want for gas exchange from DSB). If I never top off with new RO/DI water the salinity or SG (salt level) will constantly rise. The salt leve lwill rise since the water evaps but the salt does not. So I need to add water to bring down the SG or Salinity.
It is the same for oil when worrying about ash. If the NV is high you use more oil and the ASH will rise. It your ash rises it will/might cause slugging and oxidation unless you add more oil to bring the levels back down. So pick a oil with a low NV etc.
I could type for hours here so I will stop. I want to fly my heli in the snow!
Usually the higher the TBN, means it will fight acids better. It sometimes happens like that and sometimes not. It depends how good the additive pkg is. With today’s Epa driving the level of the oils, the oils need to be able to take “more junk” in the oil. As I noted in older posts, the TBN will get depleted overtime. The “trick” the oil people are trying to do is slow the rate of change. You could have a TBN of like 13 but the additive pkg is poor and it drops like a rock. You could have a 11.1 TBN and it drops more linear and slower.
As Dargo stated wonderfully, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif, it is not 100% that the oil is great with a high TBN, but I would rather have a high or higher TBN then some other oil starting at lets say 6 or 8.
Most times if the TBN is high along with a high ZDDP pkg, you are good to go.
Also the ash comes into play, not integral but some oils have ash. I would not want ash in my oil for reasons stated above. But if your Noack Volatility (NV) is high, means you will use more oil. If you use more oil, the ash level will rise in % with a high NV since the ash does not disappear. This NV I consider it like evaporation. So unless you top off ASAP, I would rather have zero ash in my oil.
Think of it like this, I have a salt-water fish tank and I got some evaporation due to no tank tops (which I want for gas exchange from DSB). If I never top off with new RO/DI water the salinity or SG (salt level) will constantly rise. The salt leve lwill rise since the water evaps but the salt does not. So I need to add water to bring down the SG or Salinity.
It is the same for oil when worrying about ash. If the NV is high you use more oil and the ASH will rise. It your ash rises it will/might cause slugging and oxidation unless you add more oil to bring the levels back down. So pick a oil with a low NV etc.
I could type for hours here so I will stop. I want to fly my heli in the snow!
